Faulkner: The Nobel Prize Winner

My first reaction when I thought about writing about Faulkner was, “No, he’s done so much, it’s overwhelming.” And, I was right. I now have 21 pages of research that I plan to whittle down – starting with Faulkner and Clark Gable, the movie star.

Faulkner spent a lot of time (between 1932 and 1945) in Hollywood and, as a screenwriter, worked closely with the famous director, Howard Hawks who invited him to go on a hunting trip with Gable who asked, “Mr. Faulkner, who would you say are the best living writers?” Faulkner replied, “Thomas Mann, Willa Cather, John Dos Passos, Ernest Hemingway and myself.” Gable asked, “Oh, do you write, Mr. Faulkner?” Faulkner replied, “Yeah. What do you do, Mr. Gable?”

HE WAS BORN IN NEW ALBANY, MISSISSIPPI (9/25/97 to 7/6/62). His mother and grandmother were voracious readers, as well as fine painters. Faulkner was raised from birth by his “mammy” as he called her. She was a black woman called Caroline Barr. When she died at 104 he delivered the eulogy. It was one of the few times anyone ever saw Faulkner cry.

THE AUTHOR’S GREAT-GRANDFATHER led a Confederate regiment, built a 62-mile railroad from Oxford to Tennessee and got elected state senator. He also wrote several novels and, as a child, Faulkner reportedly said, “I want to be a writer like my great-granddaddy.” This ancestor was later shot by his ex-business partner in a public square. A fictional Colonel Satoris was modeled on the real one for “The Sound and the Fury.”

HE DROPPED OUT OF HIGH SCHOOL and later enrolled at the University of Mississippi (Ole Miss) where one could matriculate without a high school diploma. He did poorly in English and left after a year. He wrote poetry and essays for a local magazine and then when he was 27 he moved to New Orleans where Sherwood Anderson urged him to put these endeavors aside and write about the people and places of his childhood. Faulkner lived with Anderson and his wife in the Pontalba building just off Jackson Square, located only a short walk from Rathbone Mansions.

The University of Mississippi, usually called “Ole Miss” that Faulkner attended for a year – the school was founded in 1848 – or, 172 years ago when it opened with 80 students

Two years later his first novel “Soldiers’ Pay” was published. He made a brief trip to Paris, returned and in 1929 he developed the fictional Yoknapatawpha County – a place nearly identical to Lafayette County, in which Oxford, Mississippi is located. A year later, in 1930, Faulkner released “As I Lay Dying.”

FAULKNER BECAME FAMOUS AND KNOWN for his faithful and accurate dictation of Southern speech. He also wrote about social issues that many writers would not touch: slavery, the “good old boys” club and Southern aristocracy. In 1931, his book “Sanctuary” was published – a story that focused on the rape and kidnapping of a young woman at Ole Miss. It shocked and appalled readers, but it was a commercial success.

HE MARRIED HIS OLD FLAME AND SETTLED down to write “Light in August” that came out in 1932 and introduced his readers to Joe Christmas, a man of uncertain racial makeup and Joanna Burden, who supported voting rights for blacks and is brutally murdered. Note: “Time” magazine has listed this book and “The Sound and the Fury:” as two of the “Best 100 English-language novels published from 1923 to 2005.

MOST OF HIS 19-NOVEL SAGA ABOUT OXFORD was written in his home on Old Taylor Road (a 10-minute walk from the Courthouse Square). The house is named Rowan Oak – pronounced the same as Roanoke in Virginia. Faulkner bought the 124-year-old house and 14 acres of heavily wooded land in 1930. He had just sold the film rights to “Sanctuary,” which he wrote while working the night shift in a local boiler factory and could afford the $5,000 Depression price tag.

The battered, old typewriter at Rowan Oak where Faulkner created 19 novels – and yes, he typed with two fingers as he wrote one masterpiece after another

HIS PUBLISHER WENT BANKRUPT: SO THE MONEY that he was expecting, in 1932, from his novel “Sanctuary” ($4,000 or $68,000 in today’s money) vanished overnight. Then Leland Hayward, a prominent talent agent, secured him a $500-a-week contract (the equivalent of $8,500 today) to write scripts for Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer.

HE WAS SO SCARED HE SOUGHT REFUGE in Death Valley. “It was the quietest place that I could think of,” he said. But after a week of solace and solitude he returned – ready to write and completed four story treatments in four weeks. He had a script in five or six days and Hawks said, “It was one of the finest scripts I’d ever read.”

Faulkner was awarded the 1949 Nobel Prize in Literature (currently $913,279.00 in our money) and won two Pulitzers and two National Book Awards as well. But, this isn’t how I want to end this – I feel that a fabulist tale is a better idea. So here it is: Los Angeles in the thirties was quite different and much rougher than now.

So one day, Faulkner said, “I’m goin’ pig huntin’ – and he did – this meant a whole day on Santa Cruz Island stalking wild boar. After this, he returned to the Beverly Hills Hotel “unshaven, clad in his hunting shirt and carrying a borrowed weapon under his arm,” said a bystander. “As he walked through the lobby, he sent guests and hotel staff running for cover. Earlier there had been an armed robbery and everyone thought Faulkner was the crook returning to the scene of his crime.” That does it – a perfect ending!

Shaun Nelson-Henrick

Southern Louisiana Loves Visitors

At Rathbone Mansions we appreciate the beauty, charm and diversity found in New Orleans, Louisiana and all over the South. Many of our guests enjoy exploring the city of New Orleans from the comfort of our historic hotel as well as areas all over the south to experience what each unique spot has to offer. Our blog highlights many of these stunning places so you can design the best trip to suit your needs.

Most travelers come to this part of the state expecting to find gumbo, accordions and perhaps – a few gators. But author/journalist, Eleni Gage, made even more discoveries when she took a road trip, with her good friend, Katherine, to a region called “Acadiana.”

“WE’RE GOING TO CAJUN COUNTRY,” she said when asked about their trip. “We hope to listen to zydeco, sample tasty local dishes and head out on a swamp.” But they were in for a bit of a surprise. Or, as she writes in her article that appeared in Travel & Leisure, April 2020, “We didn’t expect soul-stirring natural beauty and a unique community, with a layered history that continues to thrive.”

THEY SET OFF ON A THREE-HOUR DRIVE to Lafayette Parish, that welcomes roughly three million people a year. It’s interesting to note that Canadians make up the largest group of international visitors. This makes sense because the word “Cajun” is an anglicization of “Acadien,” which is the French Catholic group that was expelled from Canada by the Brits in the 18th century.

From New Orleans to Lafayette it’s 136 miles on I-10 W – photos and map are courtesy of Travel & Leisure, April 2020.

THEIR FIRST STOP IS VERMILIONVILLE, on the outskirts of Lafayette, a city of 126,000 residents. In an old schoolhouse, they see a blackboard filled with this line, “I will not speak French on the school grounds.” Wow! That’s a bit of a shock. Apparently English was mandatory in Louisiana public schools until 1974. Today, there’s a move to bring back the language and culture of the Acadian. Vermilionville is only about a 2-hour drive from Rathbone Mansions.

A mouth-watering dish of diver scallops with chard and sweet corn at the Café Vermilionville in Lafayette

Happy diners in the courtyard of Café Vermilionville in Lafayette

THE TWOSOME TAKE AN AIRBOAT ride on the Bayou and, in order to do so, have to sign a waiver absolving their guides of the responsibility for the actions of mosquitoes, alligators and Asian carp, who tend to jump out of the water into your lap. Yikes!

My husband and I took an airboat ride in New Orleans and we thought it was one of the highlights of our entire trip. We never signed a waiver and never saw jumping fish BUT we had a lot of fun as we whizzed around at a hair-raising speed. CLICK HERE to read about our swamp tour.

THE SERENE BEAUTY OF THE ATCHAFALAYA Swamp – situated between Lafayette and Baton Rouge really impressed the two travelers. Yes, I totally agree: the dark waters and trees dripping with Spanish moss is breathtaking and dramatic. Gage writes that, “the sound of flapping alerted us to the presence of egrets, their flight rippling the reflection of cypress trees in the water.”

Oh yes, those cypress trees that seem to live forever really fascinated us. CLICK HERE to see and read more about these toughies – who can stick around for 600 years.

Later the two adventurers moved on to the Rip Van Winkle Gardens, a park on the banks of Lake Peigneur, that’s a half hour south of Lafayette. This was followed by a fun night at the Blue Moon Saloon where fiddlers and accordionists accompanied a young lady singing in French.

A fun jam session at the Blue Moon Saloon in Lafayette

ON THEIR LAST DAY THEY WENT KAYAKING on Lake Martin where their guide explained the healing power of the outdoors. “When people observe all this -- you see them relax and rest,” she said.

Kayaking on scenic, peaceful Lake Martin

Yes, the beauty of nature is definitely good for the soul.

Shaun Nelson-Henrick  

Celebs Love New Orleans

When I started looking for famous, talented folks who were actually born in New Orleans I was astounded at the number I found. “Must be something in the water,” I mumbled to myself. From there I went to those who bought property and really settled into the Big Easy.

FIRST: Let’s start with those who were born in New Orleans

#1 Wynton Marsalis: He is the American virtuoso trumpeter, composer, teacher and artistic director of Jazz at Lincoln Center in New York City where he presents classical and jazz music to young audiences on a regular basis. He has also won nine Grammy Awards. His “Blood on the Fields” was the first jazz composition to win the Pulitzer Prize for Music (an astounding feat in my mind).

Wynton Marsalis, the esteemed trumpeter who has worked tirelessly to ensure the status of jazz as a respected American art form

#2 Eli Manning: He’s the spectacular American football quarterback for the New York Giants of the National American Football League (NFL). On a personal note, I once saw Manning in a tickertape parade on Wall Street – he looked like he was having the time of his life – waving and smiling at everyone. He played college football from 2000 to 2003 – then was drafted to the San Diego Chargers. This Super Bowl-winning champ played for the New York Giants from 2004 to 2019 when he retired.  

#3 Patricia Clarkson: This American actress (who I personally think is terrific) has starred in a number of roles in a wide variety of films. Her accolades include an Academy Award nomination, two Golden Globe Award nominations and four Screen Actors Guild nominations – plus several others. She studied drama at Yale and has worked nonstop for the past 35 years in TV and films.

#4 Bryant Gumbel: This TV journalist and sportscaster is best known for his 15 years as co-host of NBC’s Today show. Since 1995, he has hosted HBO’s acclaimed investigative series “Real Sports with Bryant Gumbel.” It has been rated as “flat out TV’s best sports program” by the Los Angeles Times. Gumbel has also won four Emmy Awards.

#5 Ellen DeGeneres: This multi-talented TV host, writer and producer, was born in Metairie (it’s only seven miles from New Orleans so I’m including it). She starred in the popular sitcom, “Ellen” from 1994 to 1998 and hosted her syndicated TV talk show since 2003. She has an estimated net worth of $330 million and flips houses that she brings up to scratch.

SECOND: Now, let’s move on to those who have bought property

#6 Sandra Bullock: This Oscar winner paid a little over $2 million in 2009 for a Gothic Victorian mansion on Fourth and Coliseum Streets in New Orleans’ famed Garden District. The five-bedroom home has over 6,615 sq. ft. which offers plenty of room for her and her two children: a girl and a boy who is named Louis – after New Orleans native and jazzman, Louis Armstrong.

#7 John Goodman: He has starred in many movies and TV shows, but when he’s not working, this St. Louis, Missouri native is in New Orleans. He shares his home with his wife who was raised in the Crescent City. Rumor has it that the actor can be spotted walking his dog near his Garden District mansion.

#8 Emeril Lagasse: Celebrity chef Emeril Lagasse is a native of Fall River in the New England state of Massachusetts, but now he’s all New Orleans. He was executive chef of Commander’s Palace (one of my favorites) and then, in 1990, he opened his first restaurant in NOLA. He now owns several Creole-inspired eateries as well as a house with a “chef’s fantasy kitchen.”

Emeril Lagasse is currently the chef/owner of 11 restaurants in New Orleans, Las Vegas, Bethlehem, PA and Miramar Beach, FL

#9 Nicolas Cage: The actor has reportedly bought a pyramid-shaped tomb in the City’s St. Louis Cemetery for his final resting place, less than a mile from Rathbone Mansions. No comment.

Nicholas Cage with his third wife – just after divorcing his fourth

#10 Drew Brees: And finally, we’re rounding out this list at #10 with Super Bowl-winning quarterback, Drew Brees, who signed with the New Orleans Saints in 2006. He was born in Dallas, Texas, but he and his wife decided to make The Big Easy their home so they bought a four-bedroom mansion shortly after he signed his contract with the Saints. Then they welcomed three sons between 2009 and 2012.

I have enough research for a book, but let’s end this with two writers who made New Orleans their home. (1) Mark Twain who famously said, “New Orleans food is as delicious as the less criminal forms of sin.” And (2) Tennessee Williams who described his first Vieux Carre apartment as, “a poetic evocation of all the cheap rooming houses of the world.”

Just received this “Official Visitors Guide 2020” in the mail and it’s terrific – make sure you get a copy from: New Orleans Company, 2020 St. Charles Ave., New Orleans, LA 70230 – neworleans.com Phone: 504-566-5011

A sample page from the Visitors Guide 2020 – you won’t be bored while you’re here – that’s for sure!!!

Shaun Nelson-Henrick     

Racehorses Have An Easy Life

At Rathbone Mansions we appreciate the beauty, charm and diversity found in New Orleans, Louisiana and all over the South. Many of our guests enjoy exploring the city of New Orleans from the comfort of our historic hotel as well as areas all over the south to experience what each unique spot has to offer. Our blog highlights many of these stunning places so you can design the best trip to suit your needs.

When I came across this article in the Smithsonian magazine of May 2020 I had to read it three times. Why? Very simply: I know absolutely nothing about horses – racing or otherwise. But, I did come away with two thoughts: (1) Most racehorses have colorful, even dramatic names, and (2) Like felines (yes, we had two adorable ones) they have clear-cut, definite personalities.

So, before I get into this blog about where racehorses go to retire in Kentucky, I went to the web and researched, “How does one name a racehorse?” And good heavens! There were at least 15 if not more hard-and-fast rules that I’m cutting down to four: (1) No initials or numbers, (2) Can’t use “horse” terms, e.g., filly, stud, stallion, (3) Nothing vulgar or in poor taste, and finally, (4) the name has to be 18 characters – spaces and punctuation count. As an advertising copywriter I’ve been coming up with names for products all my life AND it ain’t easy – and neither is this!

THE “OLD FRIENDS EQUINE” WAS FOUNDED

An enterprising couple, Michael Blowen and his wife Diane began their blissful retirement home for retired racehorses – located in Scott County, just northeast of Lexington in 2003. Last year it drew 21,000 visitors. Their first adopted horse was named NARROW ESCAPE and in short order they adopted 15 more. (I’m putting all the horses’ names in caps at first mention because I think they’re great.)

The ultimate goal of Old Friends is to distance the animals from the economic pressures that sometimes put them in harm’s way (meaning, the “slaughter house” – this is the only time I’m using this term – it makes my skin crawl).  

THERE IS NO TYPICAL RETIREE AT OLD FRIENDS

The oldest is DINARD, 32, winner of the 1991 Santa Anita Derby, while the youngest is BRILLIANT DECISION, 5, who competed only nine times before it became clear he was not a racehorse.

LUBASH, poking his head into the window of the feeding tractor retired at age 10 with earnings of over $1.5 million

The horse SILVER CHARM is usually the first stop for visitors. Other headline names include the unassuming GAME ON DUDE, three-time winner of the Santa Anita Handicap and ALPHABET SOUP, a ghostly white stallion who won the Breeders’ Cup Classic, as well as TOUCH GOLD, the accomplished killjoy who deprived Silver Charm of Triple Crown glory in the 1997 Belmont Stakes.

Touch Gold (left) beat Silver Charm at Belmont – now they’re best friends and raise hell together as they race around like two demented Senior Stallions – to the delight of onlookers

All photos are courtesy of the Smithsonian magazine, May 2020

NOW LET’S TALK ABOUT THE EQUINE PERSONALITIES

Frankly, I find this hilarious or as Blowen says to a visitor, “Silver Charm requires your adoration. If you want him to come over, you’ve got to shout. ‘Silver Charm, you’re the greatest!’ Even then, he takes his time.”

“Well, c’mon guys,” Charm snorts, “I won the 1997 Kentucky Derby, the Preakness and earned a place in racing’s Hall of Fame. What have you done lately?”

He is one of almost 130 horses living in comfortable retirement at Old Friends or 236 grassy, gently rolling acres only a few miles north of Interstate 64 in Central Kentucky.

SOI PHET has retired at Old Friends after earning $1 million on the racetrack

Let’s end on this fun note. Blowen notes that, “Silver Charm and Touch Gold are both 26 and they still run around like kids. Every so often Silver Charm looks at Touch Gold as if to say, “How about we go again? After all, age is just a number.”

Addendum: Age 26 for a horse is 75 for us humans.

Since we’ve been talking about the Kentucky Derby CLICK HERE to read our write-up.

Then CLICK HERE to see our take on the Mid-Summer Mardi Gras and Southern Decadence.

Shaun Nelson-Henrick

How About a Little Greenery?

Nothing raises my spirit more than seeing a beautiful tree blossom in the spring and, without fail it happens in New York City every year. This is one reason why I decided to write about the green spaces in New Orleans - all of which are located near Rathbone Mansions.

After considerable digging (no pun intended) I came up with seven spots that look special: five parks (one with a zoo) and two well-known squares. Let’s take a look.

City Park at One Palm Drive

Since it’s been in New Orleans for more than 150 years, this park stands as one of the oldest and most beautiful urban parks in the entire country. It covers 1,300 acres or said differently: it’s three miles long and one mile wide. City Park can also make this claim – it’s bigger than Central Park in New York. CLICK HERE to read more details about City Park and our description of the “Flying Horses” on the Carousel.

City Park is home to long lines of live oaks and weeping willows

Your family or friends will love the live oaks, Spanish moss, waterways and bridges that reflect a slightly tamed version of the Louisiana wetlands (Bayou Metairie runs through the grounds).

The spellbinding waterways and trees you’ll see in City Park

Woldenberg Park at One Canal St.

This is a famous landmark that allows you to ride a bike, walk, jog or just sit back and take it easy. There’s lots of grass for picnicking and you’ll also find a number of benches that make perfect spots for a quick rest after a jaunt around town. Or, as one happy visitor relates, “It’s in an amazing location: the Mississippi River on one side and the French Quarter on another!

The Audubon Park at 6500 Audubon Park Trail

The Audubon Zoo is inside the Audubon Park, a great riverside park with 1.8 miles of a multi-use paved trail that winds beneath a shady canopy of live oaks. The zoo itself has wildlife from around the world, but the main attraction is the exhibit of local critters in a replica of a Louisiana swamp. Behind the zoo is The Fly, a waterfront section where folks toss Frisbees and chill out. Kids love this place.

Louis Armstrong Park at 701 N Rampart St.

This is a historic 32-acre public park a short distance from the French Quarter that sports a dramatic arched entrance you can’t miss. Inside there’s a 12 ft. statue of jazz great Louis Armstrong (the name sake for one of our beautiful suites at Rathbone Mansions) as well as the original Congo Square where slaves and free blacks gathered in the 19th century. It was a place where they could be Africans – if only for one afternoon a week.  

Alcee Fortier Park at 3100 Esplanade Ave.

This is a small, but nicely landscaped park on lovely Esplanade Avenue. The park sports lights, lanterns and funky furniture. One fan suggests, “Just grab a container of coffee from Fair Grinds or wine from Swirl and head over to this park to chill out.”

Jackson Square at 701 Decatur St.

This square is named after the Battle of New Orleans hero Andrew Jackson and is surrounded by historic buildings, including the St. Louis Cathedral and the Upper Pontalba Apartments, the oldest building of this type in the U.S. This is a favorite site for visitors, locals and artists who display their work on the Square’s iron fence. Directly in front you’ll find mule-drawn carriages with drivers who will ask if you’d like to ride around the French Quarter. At $40 a person for one hour I’ll walk – sorry.

The St. Louis Cathedral on Jackson Square – it’s the oldest Cathedral in North America

Lafayette Square at 602 Camp St.

Guess what? Here’s another historic square that’s been around forever: 195 years to be exact. (I’ve come to the conclusion that nothing ever gets thrown out or torn down in New Orleans – it all gets patched up to “hang on” by hook or by crook.) Lafayette is right in the heart of the Central Business District (CBD). It’s a great place to relax and face the next God Knows How Many Years. Tip: Just patch up and keep trucking.

Shaun Nelson-Henrick

Cooking for the Gang

I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again: I think Southern Living is one of the best magazines ever. In the February, 2020 issue of the magazine the editor, Sid Evans, wrote a fascinating piece about “Community Cooking” that really caught my eye.

In it Evans says, “When my wife and I moved to Charleston, South Carolina about 10 years ago, one of the best things we did was join a supper club with some other couples. We weren’t very organized, but every few months we’d gather for dinner at someone’s house and we’d each bring a dish. The hosts got to pick the cuisine and the menus always had an international theme, from Italian to Southeast Asian to Indian.”

Sid Evans, editor-in-chief of Southern Living – All photos and recipes are courtesy of the magazine

“The goals were to try new recipes and ingredients that were outside our comfort zones and to have some culinary adventures at a time when we were all tied down with little kids and limited budgets. When it worked, it felt as if we’d all been on a wonderful exotic trip together, though perhaps that was the wine talking.”

He goes on to describe one memorable dinner where “one couple made roast suckling pig, a showstopper of an entrée that took about two days to prepare and had us talking all week.” Don’t you love this? Then Evans comes to the whole point of why he’s relating all this: the magazine is starting a Facebook page called “What’s Cooking with Southern Living – it’s a place where readers can discuss recipes from the latest issue and share their love for Southern food.  

ONE “TEST KITCHEN” RECIPE EVERY ISSUE  

This recipe will be flagged with the red “What’s Cooking” logo – and have input and feedback from a Southern Living expert. Evans goes on to say, “This month it will be Pam Lolley who will answer questions on her “Pineapple-Ginger Upside-Down Cake recipe. She is a rock star around here, especially when it comes to Southern sweets.” Sounds fantastic so CLICK HERE for the “Pineapple-Ginger Upside-Down Cake recipe.

This peaked my interest so I slowly went through the magazine a second time and found a recipe for “Sheet Pan Hanger Steak and Vegetables” that sounded great. The last time I had Hanger Steak was in Danny Meyer’s Gramercy Tavern in Greenwich Village and it was absolutely delicious. I’ve never had it since. CLICK HERE for “Sheet Pan Hangar Steak and Vegetables.”

Hanger steak with sweet potatoes and French beans – serve with a fancy flavored butter

This issue is chock-full of great tips. I know absolutely nothing about grits (I think I’ve had them twice in my life) but nonetheless I think these three tips from Robby Melvin, Test Kitchen Director, sound very good.

ADD RICHNESS: Cook grits in a mixture of water and heavy cream (or milk) for the tastiest results. When they’re done cooking, stir in a bit more cream and, of course, butter. (Weight Watchers will be horrified.)

SEASON WELL: Add salt to the cooking liquid before you whisk in the grits to make sure they are flavored through and through. Taste cooked grits and add more salt if necessary. (Yikes! I don’t even have a saltshaker.)

LEFT: grits with scrambled eggs, cubed ham, shredded Cheddar cheese, halved cheery tomatoes and chopped fresh chives. RIGHT: grits with a fried egg, cubed chorizo (highly seasoned pork sausage), cubed avocado, crumbled queso fresco (fresh Mexican cheese) and hot sauce

SKIM: Once you add the grits to the liquid, use a spoon or a small mesh strainer to remove the bits of husk that float to the top. They will not soften as they cook and can ruin the texture.

If you are staying at our historic hotel, you can find homemade grits at the Ruby Slipper Cafe. Only about a ten minute walk from Rathbone Mansions.

There is one last thing in Southern Living that I think looks wonderful. It’s called “Cinnamon Sugar Pull-Apart Loaf” and is made with milk, butter, flour and cinnamon – everything about it sounds and looks terrific. CLICK HERE to check out the recipe.

Delicious Cinnamon Sugar Pull-Apart Loaf – I love the fact that it looks like some sort of shipwreck

Happy eating! Now get that cooking gang going!  

Shaun Nelson-Henrick

A Southern Marvel

This is a fun story so listen up. I work ahead of due dates for these Rathbone blogs because I don’t want to miss any deadlines. In April, I decided to write a piece about Nashville simply because that city fascinates me and I wanted to learn more about it. About a half-hour after I completely finished the piece, I checked the mail and found a copy of one of my all-time favorite magazines: Vanity Fair.

I have roughly 20 magazine subscriptions for research purposes (in addition to other sources) and always do the same thing when I receive one: a quick perusal to see if there’s anything of interest. Well, I struck gold with the April 2020 issue – there was a 10-page piece on Reese Witherspoon that I thought looked very interesting. Then I stopped dead in my tracks when I spotted a sentence that read, “Reese had come home to Nashville for Christmas.”

WHAT! I kept reading and realized that a good 40% of the interview took place in, or was about, the city of Nashville. It was a coincident that was almost spooky.

SOUTHERN SPUNK

The basic premise behind Witherspoon’s life and career is this: start early and keep going full tilt. She started as a teenager, moved on over the years to full-blown stardom at 25 in “Legally Blonde” and then won an Oscar at 29 for playing June Carter Cash in “Walk the Line” (released in November 2005).  Oh yes, during this time she also married and had a baby at the ripe old age of 23. (I’ve seen recent shots of Witherspoon and her lovely daughter Ava, who is now 20, walking down the street together – they look like sisters.) Or as the writer of this interview, Ann Patchett, who also grew up in Nashville, describes the actress, “In jeans and sneakers she doesn’t look old enough to rent a car.” She’s absolutely right.

HITTING A SPEED BUMP 

The following years yielded no memorable films for this award-winning actress. Or as Patchett writes, “In 2012 ‘The New Yorker’ flung her on the ash heap of has-beens, in a list of stars who were now persona non grata. She was washed up at the age of 36. At this point, her second husband, Jim Toth, a talent agent who, like Witherspoon, stays ahead of the curve, told her that if the roles weren’t there she should develop them herself. He also pointed out that, ‘You read more than anyone I’ve ever known,’ to inspire her.”

SHE SPENT THE MONEY

Sometimes a strong beginning is all it takes. Witherspoon used her own money to start a production company. She optioned the rights to two novels that had not been published: one was “Gone Girl” and the second was “Wild” that she produced and starred in – and was ultimately nominated for Academy Awards – both for herself and Laura Dern.

Laura Dern and her Oscar – All photos courtesy of Vanity Fair, April 2020

THAT’S NOT THE WHOLE STORY

Witherspoon is now a smart actress who has optioned books and produced movies with roles that she could play. But that’s not the whole story. She has worked to open up more jobs in movies for female directors and screenwriters. Or, as she says, “I can remember being in pictures where I was the only woman on the set and there would be 150 men.” (I can relate to this: as a senior copywriter on Madison Avenue I noticed that there were very few females with my job.)

This bundle of energy is now doing what she set out to do and is making money – lots of money.

THE FULL CIRCLE: NASHVILLE

And she’s spending it in her hometown. At the end of several interviews Patchett is given a tour of Witherspoon’s home in Nashville (she lives in LA but visits often) and says, “It’s a beautiful house with flooding light in the foyer, and the biggest surprise of all, a tiny powder room under the front staircase that’s right out of Alice in Wonderland.” That’s a fairy tale ending if there ever was one.  

Shaun Nelson-Henrick

Exploring St. Claude Avenue

FAUBOURG WINES

This is a very diverse, exciting avenue in New Orleans that is often called “The St. Claude Corridor” so I came up with this idea. Why not put all the things of interest in a list according to their addresses. This means that, starting with 1931 St. Claude Avenue (near Touro Street) and moving right along to 3067 (near Montegut) I have written about 12 spots. The entire St. Claude reaches from Esplanade to the Industrial Canal in less than three miles. Below you’ll find info about one lively section of this corridor - located only steps away from Rathbone Mansions!

SWEET LORRAINE’S, 1931

This is a neighborhood club where you can hear great traditional jazz. Then on Thursdays or “blues nights” you can listen to Chucky C and Clearly Blue. On Sundays, Sweet Lorraine’s hosts a delicious jazz brunch. One guest says, “Excellent musicians and the food is really special.” 

SIBERA: EASTERN EUROPEAN, 2227

There’s always an interesting crowd of hipsters and punks at Siberia. This alternative music club hosts live music and other events: everything from heavy metal bands to blues and burlesque. An on-site Eastern European-themed restaurant offers borscht (beet soup), kielbasa and beef stroganoff. It’s also open for brunch on weekends.

THE ART GARAGE, 2231

This place opened in the spring of 2016 in an old auto body warehouse. This art market is a creative endeavor that hosts a wide range of events: music shows, theater acts, body painting, fire dancing, magic shows and more. It’s eye-catching and 100% New Orleans.

HI HO LOUNGE/COURTYARD, 2239

At the corner of Marigny Street you’ll find a lounge that offers nightly shows with local musicians and has done so for years. Hi Ho hosts comedy, improv and burlesque as well as weekly blue grass sessions. Bonus: it has a courtyard area that is home to Fry & Pie, a delicious late-night dining spot that offers several French fry dishes and mouth-watering desserts.

ALLWAYS LOUNGE, 2240

This is one of the funkiest joints in town. On any given night you may expect: local theater, live comedy or a sixties-inspired dance party. The drinks here are super-cheap.

KAJUN’S PUB/RESTAURANT, 2256

Technically this is a live-music spot  -- that is, if you count karaoke as live music. One observer notes that, “the karaoke can only be rated as ‘awesomely bad at times’ but the beer flows no matter what.”

SHANK CHARCUTERIE, 2352

Welcome to a butcher shop and charcuterie with a lunch counter. One visitor says, “If you do nothing else in the Marigny, visit Shank. It’s one of the most underrated places in New Orleans to eat.”

CAFÉ ISTANBUL, 2372

For those who like open-mic nights Café Istanbul hosts storytelling competitions as well as poetry nights. Fun, funky and fine-tuned for live music – this place is a hub of diverse and avant-garde performances.

ST. ROCH MARKET, 2381

If you only have one meal in the Corridor, make sure it’s at the market. This food hall-style eatery is a favorite that is designed as an upscale food court and offers dozens of options. Their patio seating is the perfect place to dine or drink with a group.

FAUBOURG WINES, 2805

Stop in for a bottle to go or perch at a table for a glass of wine and a cheese plate. They host free wine tastings on Wednesdays from 6:00 to 8:00 pm and specialize in lesser-known small production wines.

FAUBOURG WINES

RED’S CHINESE, 3048

A glowing red sign with no name is all that marks the location of Red’s Chinese. But ask any local and they’ll say this is the place to eat. Their dive-bar atmosphere fits the diner’s down-to-earth vibe.

SATURN BAR, 3067

This old, classic neighborhood bar has been in the same family for over 60 years. “They have T-shirts and wall calendars that make for cool gifts to bring back home,” says an out-of-town guest. 

Shaun Nelson-Henrick

Taking a Look at Nashville

At Rathbone Mansions we appreciate the beauty, charm and diversity found in New Orleans, Louisiana and all over the South. Many of our guests enjoy exploring the city of New Orleans from the comfort of our historic hotel as well as areas all over the south to experience what each unique spot has to offer. Our blog highlights many of these stunning places so you can design the best trip to suit your needs.

A love of country/western music has always been a part of me because I grew up in the West. But, of course, one doesn’t talk about this in good old New York City – too “down home” for this gang. That said I really like most types of music but a good old cowboy song will always have a special place in my heart.

That’s why I wanted to write about Nashville, the capital of Tennessee – it’s in the Deep South and it’s only slightly over 500 miles from New Orleans (you can drive there in 7 1/2 hours). Nashville has close to 700,000 residents and is described as “Music City.” You’ll find lots of fun stuff to do, see and enjoy if you visit.

There are roughly over 300 professional recording studios in Nashville – or within 50 miles – not an exact figure because there isn’t one. And, to the dismay of some, since 2015 there’s a ban on home studios. It’s also known as “The Athens of the South” because it’s home to so many colleges and universities.

Another fact I didn’t know about Nashville before I started this blog is that it’s completely landlocked and bordered by eight states – NORTH: Kentucky and Virginia; SOUTH: Mississippi, Alabama and Georgia; EAST: North Carolina; and WEST: Arkansas and Missouri along the Mississippi River. Now, let’s take a look at some of the spots you can visit.

THE GRAND OLE OPRY

When you’ve been around for 95 years everyone has heard of you! The Opry started as a one-hour radio “barn dance” – then moved to the Ryman Auditorium. Since 1974, the show has been broadcast from the GRAND OLE OPRY HOUSE at 2804 Opryland Drive in Nashville. Or, said differently, it’s just over one mile from downtown – a 16-minute drive away.

The Grand Ole Opry is still a live radio show and tickets must be purchased to see a performance. Backstage tours are also offered. Each show consists of multiple guest artists as well as Opry “members” (who can appear at any show they wish). Being invited to become a member is considered one of country music’s crowning achievements. Of course, one must behave oneself. For example, Hank Williams, who is now considered country music royalty, was a drunken pill-popping mess who frequently missed performances so the Opry gave him the boot in 1952. Since that time fans have been petitioning to posthumously reinstate Williams.

Here are other spots for you to visit: (1) The Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum located at 222 5th Ave., South offers a look at the evolving history and traditions of country music. (2) The famous Music Row is a historical district located to the southwest of downtown Nashville. This is a one-of-a-kind experience offered on Lower Broadway. Neon lights blaze while the bars offer live music seven days a week. Partying goes on until the early morning hours. 

WHAT TO EAT?

Have you ever eaten a Moon Pie? I haven’t either but it’s described as a Tennessee creation that started in 1917 and is similar to a “S’MORE” – I get that! It’s known as a Southern favorite that’s full of chocolate and marshmallow goodness!  CLICK HERE for the recipe.

WHAT TO DRINK?

Have you ever had a Bushwacker? No, but I had his second cousin in Hawaii (more about that later). It’s a very tasty drink that looks and tastes like a milkshake but don’t be deceived, it packs a wallop – it can be made with many types of liquor, but it’s usually made with rum. About 10 years ago, it became the party drinking staple in Nashville. The recipe is hard to pin down but it usually includes milk or ice cream and dropping a shot on top called a “floater” which can be anything from whiskey, coffee, peppermint or whatever.

To finish with flair: my Aloha drink was absolutely delicious but midway through the second one I had an urge to go headfirst (drink and all) into the pool. Sanity prevailed as I whispered to Peter, “Just get me back up to the room.” Be aware, this drink sneaks up on you because it’s so delicious – but then, reality sets in.

Shaun Nelson-Henrick 

Souvenirs Galore in NOLA

When one travels to a new spot in this fascinating world of ours it’s fun to think about bringing back a souvenir of sorts – just to keep the memory of one’s journey alive. For adults, a beautiful vase may do the trick, but for kids it should be something catchy and fun. I come from a family of four and the minute either parent returned from somewhere without us there were howls of “What did you bring me?” I remember my mother saying that, “It’s a lot of work looking for fun stuff for all you kids,” but she still did it – and we loved her for it. So, here are a few suggestions on where to go and what to buy in The Crescent City, as New Orleans is often called because the original town, the Vieux Carré (French Quarter) was built at a sharp bend in the Mississippi River.

1. Frenchmen Art Market: This is a boutique art market that is located on historic Frenchmen Street (just steps away from the French Quarter). You’ll find a rotating collection of over 80 local illustrators, painters, jewelers, sculptors and much more. This market offers a diverse collection of unique handcrafted art and is open seven nights a week – which gives you lots of time to shop. It’s located at 619 Frenchmen Street in New Orleans.

2. Simon of New Orleans: The art in this shop is as vibrant as the city itself. He’s described as, “The Best Folk Artist in New Orleans” and you’ll see his work in the local bars, restaurants and shops in this city. Simon is super friendly and always ready to have a snap taken with the guests at his gallery – a nice, warm gesture. There is also a display of eye-catching antiques right next door. This shop is right off Magazine Street. The address is 1028 Jackson Avenue and it’s open Monday to Saturday from 7:00 am to 5:00 pm. Hello? I double-checked this: who buys art or antiques at 7:00 in the morning? That’s what it says!

3. Louisiana Music Factory: Looking for some lively music to take home with you? Then this independent record and CD store is for you! Its specialty is the music of New Orleans. One shopper says, “The day I came to visit their large selection of music books was blocked off because they were hosting an ‘ALL-DAY LIVE MUSIC FOR JAZZ FEST’ – possibly the best excuse I’ve ever heard!”

He goes on to say, “This place has a wonderful staff – plus every kind of jazz – to a great selection of gospel music.” (I think he likes our factory.) The address is 421 Frenchmen Street – in the Faubourg Marigny of New Orleans. Open Monday to Sunday from 10:00 am to 7:00 pm.  

The Louisiana Music Factory specializes in jazz, blues, Cajun, zydeco, R&B and Dixieland any way you want it: CD, DVD, LP + books and posters

4. Faulkner House Books: This is house where William Faulkner wrote his first novel called “Soldiers Pay” in 1926 (if that doesn’t impress you – nothing will). It’s described as a little gem of a bookstore that has Faulkner’s complete works, including first editions. (I was an English major at Columbia and read a lot of Faulkner – I believe “Light in August” published in 1932 and “Absalom, Absalom” in 1936 were my favorites.) This place is at 624 Pirates Alley: off Jackson Square in the French Quarter. Hours are Sunday to Saturday, 10:00 am to 5:30 pm.  By the way, William Faulkner famously had a 20-year “drinking problem” – if I wrote as much as he did, I’d have one, too.

Faulkner House Books – this shop was founded in 1988 and is a sanctuary for fine literature and rare editions, including books by and about Faulkner

5. Dirty Coast: Okay, here’s a spot where you can look for an offbeat souvenir for some rebellious relative or friend. It’s described as a “pint-sized shop selling a variety of locally-themed T-shirts with clever and quirky designs.” Let’s take a look: NEW ORLEANS IS FOR LIVERS, or LET’S EAT LUNCH AND TALK ABOUT DINNER, or BURY ME ABOVE GROUND – you get the picture. It is located at 5631 Magazine Street (Uptown) and open from 10:00 am to 6:00 pm, seven days a week. They’re also at the New Orleans Airport in Terminal B – for last-minute shoppers.

Dirty Coast is the spot for T-shirts, tea towels, coasters, candles and cards – all very humorous and all worth taking home

Don’t forget to pick up souvenirs to commemorate your visit to New Orleans and your stay at Rathbone Mansions!

Shaun Nelson-Henrick  

Open for Business!

Stanley

Here is a list of local restaurants/attractions near Rathbone Mansions that are open now!

Eateries:

• The Ruby Slipper: Breakfast/Brunch - 2001 Burgundy St. – Sun-Mon - 8 am - 2 pm

• True Food Kitchen: Lunch/Dinner - 801 St. Charles Ave. - Everyday - 11 am - 8 pm

• Buffa’s Restaurant and Bar: Lunch/Dinner - 1001 Esplanade Ave. - Everyday - 11 am - 11 pm

• Stanley: Breakfast/Lunch - 547 St. Ann St. - Thurs-Sun - 8 am - 4 pm

• Bacchanal: Lunch/Dinner/Wine Room - 600 Poland Ave. - Monday, Wednesday, Thursday - 5 pm - 10 pm, Friday - Sunday - NOON - 11 pm

• Port of Call: Lunch/Dinner (Take-out and Outdoor Seating) - 838 Esplanade Ave. - Fri-Sun - NOON - 8 pm

• Cochon Cajun Restaurant: Lunch/Dinner - 930 Tchoupitoulas St. - Tues-Sun - 11 am - 9 pm

• Dat Dog: Lunch/Dinner - 601 Frenchman St. – Sun-Mon - 11 am - 9 pm

• Galatoire’s French-Creole Restaurant: 209 Bourbon St. - Wed-Sun - 11:30 am - 9 pm

• Court of Two Sisters: Jazz Brunch/Dinner (Reservations Required 504-522-7261) - 613 Royal St. – Wed-Sun - 9 am - 2 pm and 3 pm - 9 pm

• Mother's Restaurant: Breakfast/Lunch/Dinner - 401 Poydras St. – Sun-Mon - 7 am - 8 pm

• Oceana: Lunch/Dinner/Late Night - 739 Conti St. – Sun-Mon - 8 am - 1 am

• Sante Fe:  Mexican Restaurant - 3201 Esplanade Ave. - Everyday but Monday - 11 am - 9 pm

• Lola's: Spanish Restaurant, Dinner Only - 3312 Esplanade Ave. - Sun-Mon - 5:30 pm - 9/10 pm 

• Doris Metropolitan Steak House: Dinner Only (Reservations Required) - Tues-Sun - 5:30 pm - 9 pm

• Paladar 511:  Italian Restaurant, Sunday Brunch/Dinner (Reservations Suggested 504-509-6782) - 511 Marigny St. - Dinner Only Mon-Sat - 5:30 pm - 9 pm. Sun Brunch - 10 am - 2 pm, Dinner - 5:30 pm - 9 pm

• Café Degas: Fine Dining (Reservations Required on OpenTable.com) - 3127 Esplanade Ave. – Wed-Sun 5 pm - 9 pm

• G W Fins Seafood Restaurant: Dinner Only - 808 Bienville St. - Everyday - 5 pm - 9 pm

• The Palace Café: Lunch/Dinner/Happy Hour - 605 Canal St. – Wed-Sun - 11 am - 8 pm, Happy Hour 3 pm - 7 pm

• Coffee Science: Coffee Shop/To-go Only - 410 S. Broad Ave. – Sun-Mon 8 am - 2 pm

• Old Road Coffee Shop: Coffee/Pastries/Dine-in & To-go - 2024 Bayou Road – 6:30 am - 6 pm

• Bywater Bakery: Coffee/Pastries/Cakes/ Sandwiches/Soups - 3624 Dauphine St. – Every day Except Wed - 9 am - 2 pm

• Cafe Du Monde: Famous New Orleans Beignets - 800 Decatur St. - Open 24 Hours Everyday

Palace Cafe

Activities:

• The Steamboat Natchez: Dinner Cruise with Live Band - Fri-Mon - 2:30 pm (Reservations Required 504-569-1401)

• Gray Line Walking Tours: Ghost/Cocktail Tours - Fri-Mon - Ghost @ 5 pm, Cocktail @ 4 pm (Reservations Required 504-569-1401)

• WWII Museum: 945 Magazine St.- Sun-Mon - 9 am - 5 pm (Call 504-528-1944 for Tickets)

• Ogden Museum of Southern Art: 925 Camp St. - Sun-Mon - 9 am-5 pm

• JAMNOLA: Iconic Art/Music Museum - 2832 Royal St. - Wed-Sun - Buy Tickets Online at Jamnola.com

• Haunted History Tours: Ghost Tours - 723 St. Peter St.- Thurs-Sun - 6 pm and 8 pm (Reservations Required 504-861-2727)

• Haunted History Tours: Cemetery Tours - 723 St. Peter St. - Twice Daily - 10:30 am and 1:30 pm (Reservations Required 504-861-2727)

• Haunted Museum & Voodoo Pharmacy Spirit Shop: Museum Tours - 826 N Rampart - Fri-Mon - NOON - 5 pm

• Audubon Zoo: 6500 Magazine St. - Wed-Sun 10 am-5 pm (last entry 3:30 pm) – Tickets available on website AudubonNatureInstitute.org

• Audubon Aquarium: 1 Canal St. - Thurs-Mon - 10 am - 5 pm - Tickets available on website AudubonNatureInstitute.org

• Sculpture Garden at City Park: 1 Collins Diboll Circle – Wed-Sun - Seniors and immune-compromised only 9:30 am to 11 am, General Public 11 am - 4 pm

• Botanical Garden at City Park: 5 Victory Ave. - Wed-Sun - 10 am - 4:30 pm

• New Orleans Museum of Art: 1 Collins Diboll Circle - Wed-Sun - 10 am - 5 pm

• The French Market: Flea Market and Farmers Market - 700-1010 Decatur St. - Everyday 8 am - 5 pm

• Swan Boat Rentals at City Park: Paddle Boat/Bike Rental - Big Lake Trail, City Park

• Harrah’s Casino: 8 Canal St. - Everyday - 24 Hours, Drink Service Stops at 10 pm

• Cajun Encounters Swamp Tours: 941 Decatur St. - Morning/Afternoon Tours - cajunencounters.com

• Bayou Sauvage National Wildlife Refuge: Ridge Trail & Boardwalk Trail - 20876 Chef Menteur Hwy.

• New Orleans School of Cooking: Cooking Classes/Demonstrations - 524 St. Louis St. - Fri-Sun 9 am - 5 pm

• Rock ‘n’ Bowl: Bowling Alley - 3016 South Carrollton Ave. - Tues-Sat - 5 pm - 10 pm

• Octavia Books: Indie Book Outlet - 513 Octavia St. - Everyday - 10 am - 5 pm

• Crescent Park in the Bywater: Walking Trails/Picnic Area - Everyday - 6 am - 7:30 pm

• Seven Three Distilling Co.: Locally Crafted Spirits - Mon-Sat - 11 am - 5 pm

Haunted History Tours

Everybody Loves Live Music!

I decided to give you a quick overview of places you can go in New Orleans to really enjoy music. This covers a wide range – with no favorites – just a detailed, fairly long list that one can peruse fast.

The Spotted Music Club is located at 634 Frenchmen Street – just steps away from the hustle and bustle of the French Quarter. It offers music ranging from traditional and modern jazz, blues, funk and much more. It hosts live acts on a small stage for a standing room crowd.  

The Maison is described as an upbeat club that hosts a diverse, jazz-oriented lineup. It’s a three-level restaurant, bar and music venue with private event space. You’ll find it at 508 Frenchmen Street. The Maison is open seven days a week for eats, drinks and dancing.

The Maison is a three-level restaurant, bar and music club at 508 Frenchmen Street – order Hamburger Sliders, Southern Duck, Shrimp & Grits

Fritzel’s European Jazz Pub has been a Bourbon Street mainstay since 1969. It has a very relaxed vibe with no dancing and draws a more mature crowd. The focus is completely on the music. Their house band plays great traditional New Orleans jazz. It’s the oldest jazz club in the city. You’ll find Fritzel’s at 733 Bourbon Street.  

d.b.a is described as a smooth offshoot of a NYC pub. It offers craft beers and hosts an eclectic lineup of nightly live music that features local and regional acts in a smoke-free setting. Sorry, but I have to say this: the name annoys me. As far as I can figure out it means nothing: just three lowercase letters with no spaces. The club is at 618 Frenchmen Street.

The Jazz Playhouse is in the upscale jazz lounge of the Royal Sonesta Hotel. It serves originally crafted cocktails and appetizers inspired by the New Orleans jazz culture. Admission is offered to walk-ins on a first-come, first-serve basis. Restaurant R’evolution is part of this scene and offers classic Creole and Cajun cuisine. Entrance to the Playhouse is at 300 Bourbon Street – the street entrance to the restaurant is at 777 Bienville Street.

The Jazz Playhouse is located in the Royal Sonesta Hotel on Bourbon Street -- an excellent restaurant is within steps of the club

Preservation Hall is in the French Quarter at 726 St. Peter Street. It has been going for 57 years so they must be doing something right. Each set is 45 minutes long, but you can only stay for one. It always keeps the same schedule: several shows per night, every night. There’s no air conditioning and no alcohol. But you can bring a drink in with you. Make sure you get a reservation so you can sit on a bench – not the floor. There’s no bathroom and no photos are allowed. Cell phones are a no-no.

Snug Harbor Jazz Bistro has provided the best in live jazz and great regional cooking at reasonable prices for over 30 years. Snug is at 626 Frenchmen Street in an intimate, brick-walled space that dates back to the 1800s (I’m always amazed when I read dates like this – I love it.)

House of Blues New Orleans is the rock and blues-themed chain that offers Southern dishes and live music. There is no seat to go along with your ticket. This club, at 225 Decatur Street, says that they are built for dancing and rocking out! Come for the food, stay for the music. Actually, the food sounds great: jambalaya, low country shrimp and Memphis-style baby back ribs. (I don’t think you can sit to eat. Idea: try a Hail Mary pass with the shrimp or ribs.)

Three Muses is where local jazz combos perform in a snug bar and eatery that serves small plates and house cocktails. You’ll find this club at 536 Frenchmen Street. It features hot, bluesy, no-frills melodies that once poured forth from New Orleans’ dance halls and is now played by The Shotgun Jazz band. Or, as one fan says, “I don’t like jazz, but I love this band.”

Tipitina’s is a music venue located at the corner of Napoleon Avenue and Tchoupitoulas (so we don’t sound like hicks from the sticks we’ll break this down to CHOP-ah-too-lus) Street in uptown New Orleans. It opened on January 14, 1977 and was founded as a clubhouse for Professor Longhair. The Neville Brothers and other famous names have all graced the stage at this standing-room-only spot (everyone stands in this town). They play R&B, Rock and Jazz here – or as a fan says, “During the summer they have ‘Free Music Friday’ – you have to be 21 to get in and it’s lots of fun.”

Tipitina’s has been going strong for 43 years – and don’t forget: in the summer they have Free Music Friday

One-Eyed Jacks, at 615 Toulouse Street, is named after the Marlon Brando picture that he directed. Basically it’s been at the center of New Orleans’ rock music for years. It’s the French Quarter’s sole independent rock club.

The best part is that most of these local venues are only a short distance away from Rathbone Mansions!

Shaun Nelson-Henrick

The Beat Goes On With J’Ouvert

Let’s take one last look at where and how Mardi Gras is celebrated on planet earth. Rio de Janeiro hosts the biggest bash in the world and has been putting on a lavish, five-day festival of parades, music and dancing since 1723.  Venice, Italy is known for its elaborate masquerade balls that feature gorgeous masks, black tie for men and long gowns in rich fabrics for the ladies. New Orleans goes over-the-top with two weeks of street parades that include spectacular floats, costumes, masks and ends with black-tie balls full of music and merriment. Nice, France honors its Carnaval de Nice by enjoying the spectacular “Festival of Flowers” – an age-old tradition and floral extravaganza that Henri Matisse painted in 1923. Trinidad and Tobago are two islands at the epicenter of Mardi Gras in the Caribbean where Calypso and Soca are the most popular forms of music played during Mardi Gras. This leads us to a description of J’Ouvert an early morning street party held in several Caribbean islands.  

A BRIEF LOOK AT “J’OUVERT”

The color red really pops at J’Ouvert, a French word for “day opens” or “daybreak”

As far as I can remember, the first time I heard the word “J’Ouvert” was in 2015 when Carey Gabay, a lawyer, was shot in crossfire at the event in Brooklyn. In the Caribbean, celebrations open with J’Ouvert, which is the French word for “day opens” or “daybreak” – an annual sunrise festival to mark the emancipation of Trinidadian slaves in 1838.

J’Ouvert evolved from festivals held in the 1800’s where the landowners dressed up and imitated their “garden slaves.” And then guess what happened? The newly freed slaves took over and began imitating their former masters – as they had appeared in their “fun” roles as garden slaves. When tables are turned I think it’s pretty cool. 

J’Ouvert – this is the day when people let their hair down and celebrate life

The traditions of J’Ouvert vary widely throughout the Caribbean. In Trinidad, Tobago and Grenada, a part of the tradition involves smearing paint, mud or oil on the bodies of the participants. (In Brooklyn the celebrants use white powder.)

J’Ouvert revelers cover their bodies in paint or oil – many wear helmets with giant horns

This year, the event in Brooklyn will be celebrated on Monday, September 7, as part of the West Indian American Day Parade and Carnival. Celebrants will be waving flags from Jamaica, Trinidad, Barbados, Grenada and other Caribbean islands.

I became fascinated with this topic when I received my April, 2020 issue of AFAR magazine and came across some of the most arresting photographs I’ve ever seen in my life.

St. Kitts-born photographer Wayne Lawrence noticed that the customs he’s grown up with were disappearing so he decided to try and preserve them by traveling among Trinidad, Tobago, Grenada, St. Kitts and Anguilla during their J’Ouvert celebrations. I find them remarkable – I believe you will, too.

In Grenada, they use more African drums during J’Ouvert – all photos of this celebratory event are courtesy of AFAR magazine’s April 2020 issue

LOOKING AHEAD IN NEW ORLEANS

CLICK HERE to read our take on “The Satchmo Summer Fest” in 2019 – this year the event takes place from Friday, July 31st to Sunday, August 2nd at the New Orleans Jazz Museum at the Mint.

CLICK HERE for a look back at the Essence Music Fest that will start on Wednesday July 1st and end on Monday, July 6th in 2020.

*UPDATE: Due to COVID-19, these festivals have been canceled for 2020. Follow our blog for updates on upcoming events.

Shaun Nelson-Henrick

What Does That Really Mean?

When you and your family or friends travel to New Orleans you may come across words that you’ve never heard or seen before. We’re here to help – much of this is verbiage or expressions you may already know, but others may be brand new – take a look.

FOOD AND DRINK

• Beignet: This is a flat square of dough flash-fried to a golden puffiness. Then it’s dusted with powdered sugar and served hot. Very messy to eat but no one cares

• Boudin: A tasty Cajun sausage made with pork, pork liver, cooked rice and spices

• Cajun (cuisine): This is the rustic cuisine of the countryside

• Creole (cuisine): It’s the rich, refined cuisine of the city

A delicious Shrimp Étouffée

• Étouffée: A Cajun or Creole stew of shellfish or chicken served over rice; very filling and delicious

•  Go cup: This is a plastic cup given to patrons in bars so they can take their drink with them when they leave – a great idea – wish we had that in NYC

•  Jambalaya: A hearty, rice-based dish with any combination of fowl, shellfish or meat (but often includes ham)

• Migras: An easy-to-eat dish of scrambled eggs mixed with fried tortilla strips

• Mudbug: A term for crawfish that’s not particularly appetizing; let’s stick with crawfish

• Muffuletta: You’ll love this round sesame-crusted loaf – spread with a salty olive salad and layered with cheeses and deli meats – great for when you’re starving

• Po’boy: Another filling sandwich made with French bread and overstuffed with roast beef, shrimp, oysters or crab

  Sazerac: A potent whiskey drink that uses rye as its primary ingredient, with aromatic bitters. This calls for Peychaud’s bitters which are locally produced. Add a bit of sugar and a swish of absinthe – and WOW!

• Snowballs: This is shaved ice in a paper cup that is doused liberally with flavored syrup

• Tasso: A cured, smoked piece of ham

MUSIC

• Calliope: An organ-like musical instrument fitted with steam whistles, historically played on showboats and in traveling fairs

• Faus do do: A Cajun dance party that really swings

• Frottoir: This is a metal washboard-like instrument that’s worn like armor and played with spoons

• Zydeco: A style of local music that combines French tunes with Caribbean music and blues

A frottoir is a rhythmic instrument that is frequently used in Zydeco music

ALL OTHER

• Briquette-entre-poteaux: This is a style of architecture common to French-colonial houses, where brick fills the spaces between vertical and diagonal posts

• Faubourgs: Means “suburbs” – although “neighborhoods” is a more accurate translation

• Gris-gris: this is a voodoo amulet that is believed to protect the wearer from evil – or bring luck

• Krewes: A deliberate misspelling of the word “crews” – an organization or groups of people that create floats and stage festivities during Mardi Gras  

• Plaçage: A cultural institution whereby white men “kept” light-skinned black women as their mistresses

• Santeria: A Puerto Rican religion related to voodoo

• Vieux Carré: An alternate term for the French Quarter that means “Old Square”

We’ve given you 25 items to explore – some new, some old – but all part of  the history and culture of New Orleans.

Interested in finding a place to enjoy some of the delicious food mentioned in this blog? Ask the friendly staff at Rathbone Mansions - we are happy to help!

A GOOD NEWS UPDATE: I have just received an email with a headline saying, DO YOU KNOW WHAT IT MEANS TO MISS NEW ORLEANS? The email is dated Tuesday, May 26, 2020 at 7:04 pm and says, “If you know what it means to miss us – rest assured that we know what it means to miss you.”

“As we enter PHASE ONE of our REOPENING PLAN, we’re excited to welcome some of our cherished rituals back into our lives – but in a measured way that ensures the safety and well-being of everyone in our community.”  This news brought tears to my eyes.

Shaun Nelson-Henrick

Miles Davis: Birth of the Cool

This jazzman was not born in the South but from an early age he had a love of jazz that can be summed up this way. When they study our America 2,000 years from now, there will be three things that we’ll be known for: (1) the Constitution, (2) baseball and (3) jazz. They are the three most beautiful things Americans have ever created.

Jazz music was born in New Orleans and grew up in Chicago, Kansas City and New York. That said Louis Armstrong is the most important person in American music. He is what Einstein is to physics, Freud is to medicine and the Wright Brothers are to travel. Armstrong liberated jazz – cutting it loose from nearly all constraints. He has been described by one and all as a “Gift from God.”

DAVIS MOVED FAST

Miles Dewey Davis III was the son of a prosperous dental surgeon. He was born on May 26, 1926 in Alton, Illinois and was introduced to the trumpet by his father when he was 13-years-old. He never looked back. At the age of 18, he was invited to play with Billy Eckstine’s swing band alongside Charlie Parker and Dizzy Gillespie (who, for some reason always makes me smile when I see him play with his ballooning cheeks – sometimes called “Glassblower’s Disease.”)

Like many people, I’ve always been intrigued by Miles’ talent and lifestyle so I decided to watch a documentary on him that appeared on Tuesday, February 25, 2020 at 9:00 pm on Channel 13 under “American Masters” in honor of Black History Month (Feb. 1 to Feb. 29) in the United States and Canada.

Miles making great music – Photos courtesy of Channel 13

Since I make a monthly contribution to thirteen I receive their program for the upcoming month. For Davis, it was titled, “Miles Ahead: Birth of the Cool” and offered an excellent write-up on what to expect. This summing up begins with, “MILES, THE HORN PLAYER AND BANDLEADER, was restless and determined to break boundaries and live life on his own terms.”

“He was an inspiring collaborator, a cultural icon and an innovator – in everything from bebop to cool jazz, modern quintets, orchestral music, jazz fusion, rock ‘n’ roll and even hip-hop. He enjoyed a six-decade career that began as a Juilliard student and moved into his stay in Paris – where he rubbed shoulders with Picasso and Sartre – to his Newport Jazz Festival debut in 1955.” (A brief note here: I attended this annual event one year with a good friend and once was enough for me. The audience erupted and the cops used tear gas to gain control. I don’t remember why this happened BUT I do recollect that tear gas makes one’s eyes burn and sting. All we wanted to do was run away from it as fast as possible.)

This Channel 13 write-up ends with, “The story of Miles Davis has often been told as the tale of a drug-addled genius. One rarely sees him portrayed as a man who worked hard at honing his craft and deeply studied all forms of music.” That’s absolutely right – I was glad that they didn’t focus on his addictions like the 2015 film titled “Miles Ahead” that featured a stellar performance by Don Cheadle but bombed at the box office – presumably because it focused so much on drugs instead of the music itself.

At the end of his life Miles Davis had won six Grammy Awards out of a total of eleven awards overall. That’s pretty impressive.

MILES DAVIS AND HIS “isms”’

“I took the handcuffs off the music”

“Create on stage and live in danger”

“Money? A week in a club; one night in a concert”

“Big check for a concert? I felt like a thief!”

“Most rockers don’t know music. I do.”

You can hear Miles Davis and other Jazz legends playing over the speakers throughout our beautiful hotel - setting the mood for a uniquely New Orleans experience.

Shaun Nelson-Henrick

Let’s Go to the Audubon Zoo

This zoo is inside Audubon Park, a lovely riverside spot with 1.8 miles of multi-use paved trail unfurling beneath a shady canopy of live oaks. It covers 58 acres and is home to 2,000 animals. You and your family can see the entire zoo in three to four hours – but we would suggest an entire day to experience both the zoo AND the park. Behind the zoo is The Fly, the waterfront section where people toss Frisbees and chill out.

Audubon Park is home to about 150 oak trees, some of which have stood proudly over the area for more than 250 years

Photography (including flash) is permitted and outside food/drinks are allowed while suitcases, backpacks or coolers (with or without wheels) should not be larger than a 28-quart size. Only one per family is allowed. You’ll find the zoo on the left-hand side at 6500 Magazine Street in New Orleans. It has its own parking lot – which is free to the public.

STREETCAR + FREE SHUTTLE

If you are staying in the French Quarter or CBD (Central Business District), you can take the St. Charles streetcar from Canal Street to a free shuttle that runs once every 15 minutes. You can also take the #11 bus on Magazine Street, get off at the park and walk to the zoo – this will take roughly 40 minutes – but it offers great sightseeing.

GO TO THE ZOO WITH A GAME PLAN

To make your trip run smoothly we’d like to help you PLAN your visit to the zoo so here are some of the highlights that may interest you and your family.

A great way for kids to cool off at the Audubon Zoo

• Cool Zoo Splash Park – in addition to the exhibits there is also a water park for those who want to keep cool during the warmer months. It’s a great place for kids either before or after visiting the zoo. It offers water slides and an attraction known as Gator Run. And don’t worry, there’s also shaded seating for parents and grandparents who want to take a break. Now, let’s move on to the exhibits you and the kids will see.

• The Exotic African Savanna – this is where you’ll find animals such as nimble zebras, stately giraffes and African painted dogs

• The Audubon Aviary – one can view 30 species of birds from around the world here. Some are endangered species and luckily the zoo has given them a chance to thrive and grow

• Asia: the Largest Continent – this exhibit features some very big animals – for example: orangutans, tigers, sun bears and giant, but gentle, elephants

• The Bambu Village – here’s where all of you can have an actual encounter with some of the animals that are touch-friendly – everyone loves this

• Flocks of Flamingos – the zoo has two flocks (one in the plaza and another near the aviary); if you visit in the spring or summer you’ll see them laying eggs and raising their young

• Jaguar Jungle – this exhibit shows jaguars living in a Mayan rainforest – you’ll also get lots of info about animals in South America

• Monkey Hill – this is the highest point in New Orleans and features a five-level tree house (parents can take a bit of a break here)

• Reptile Encounter – one can experience a variety of different reptiles, namely: the Komodo dragon, panther chameleons and even cobras

• World of Primates – an exhibit of monkeys and lemurs plus a superstar: Okpara, a stunning Western lowland silverback male gorilla who loves attention (in nature the dominant silverback is responsible for the protection and safety of his troop)

The big guys at the zoo – no one messes with them

The Audubon Park is open daily from 5 a.m. to 10 p.m. while the Zoo is open from Tuesday to Sunday from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.

There’s even more to see than what we’ve shown here – so come and bring the whole family. This zoo is something you’ll all be talking about for weeks afterwards. Great vacation memories are priceless.

For more information about Audubon Zoo, including COVID-19 hours and policies, ask your friendly Front Desk Agent at Rathbone Mansions!

Shaun Nelson-Henrick

The Gay Scene in New Orleans

According to legend, the famous Southern playwright, Tennessee Williams once said, “America has only three cities: New York, San Francisco and New Orleans. All the rest are Cleveland.” Having lived in New York and San Francisco while only visiting New Orleans – I’m inclined to agree with him. Of course, he had a great flair for making dramatic statements – both on paper and in-person – so that has to be entered into the equation. I think a lot of people would agree with Williams, but many would also disagree.

This could be discussed for days. But right now I’m going to focus on the gay scene in New Orleans by starting with a very quick overview via nine dates.

(1) Starting 296 years ago: 1724 is the year that the first written reference to homosexuality in New Orleans appeared, (2) In 1805 the state of Louisiana outlawed sodomy, (3) 1848 was the year Walt Whitman lived in New Orleans, (4) Then in 1946 Tennessee Williams wrote “A Streetcar Named Desire” – the play that rocked the world, (5) And in 1972 the first Southern Decadence event was held, (6) Also in 1972 Tulane University Gay Student Union was founded, (7) In 1980 the first Gay Pride parade took place in NOLA, (8) The last lesbian bar, Rubyfruit Jungle closed eight years ago in 2012, and finally, (9) Same-sex marriage was finally made legal in the great state of Louisiana in 2015 or five years ago. 

THREE GAY NEIGHBORHOODS IN NOLA

The French Quarter – this includes the Lower Quarter from St. Philips Street to Esplanade Avenue

Faubourg Marigny and Bywater – this area is a quieter gay scene and is largely made up of established couples

Uptown – An “out student” scene concentrated near Tulane and Loyola   

NEED TO KNOW: GAY BARS NEVER CLOSE

This not entirely true, but it’s safe to say that, if you want a 24-hour party, the gay bars on Bourbon Street (especially Bourbon Pub) are the place to be. Even the bars that are not technically open 24 hours are often still kicking around 5 a.m. in the morning.

The Bourbon Pub & Parade in the French Quarter opened in 1974

FOUR GREAT GAY SPOTS

FIRST: Bourbon Pub & Parade is New Orleans largest gay bar and nightclub or as they say, “We are – quite simply – the place to be!” Can’t argue with that! Many of the events in New Orleans begin or take place here, for example, during Southern Decadence this is the place to be.

You’ll find Bourbon Pub at 801 Bourbon Street (that’s at the corner of St. Ann and Bourbon). What you’ll come upon at this two-storey, 24-hour gay bar and dance club depends on the day and time. Sit at the downstairs bar and enjoy a cocktail or go upstairs for karaoke, drag, cabaret and burlesque shows. This is a big over-the-top gay bar that anchors the Quarter’s LGBTIQ scene (Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual, Transgender, Intersex and Questioning). If I’ve left anyone out – don’t tell me.

SECOND: Big Daddy’s Bar is a friendly “gayborhood” bar located at 2513 Royal Street. It is described as a jumping spot where all sexualities are welcome for friendly banter and cheap drinks. One happy customer says, “We chatted briefly with a nice couple who were sitting at the bar. They said that they were “neighborhood regulars” and thought Big Daddy’s Bar was a great place. I had to agree – they had excellent music and it seemed as if everyone was having a real good time. And by the way drinks were cheaper and better than at Mimi’s across the street.”

THIRD: Café Lafitte in Exile is at 901 Bourbon and they’ve been at this spot since 1953. Hello? That’s 67 years – which makes them the oldest continuously operating gay bar in the United States! So what’s with the name? Well, the owners once ran Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop, when they lost their lease. So to make a long story short they opened Café Lafitte in Exile. That’s pretty cool.

Café LaFitte in Exile dates back to 1933 and the end of Prohibition – both the upstairs and downstairs bars have outdoor seating – view the largest outdoor picture screen in the Quarter on weekends and football games

FOURTH: I’ve saved the best for last because personally I think this place is very glam. And, let’s face it I LOVE GLAM! The Country Club is located at 634 Louisa Street and describes itself as the “best kept secret for over 40 years” that’s hidden away in New Orleans’ charming Bywater neighborhood.

The elegant, charming Country Club offers the best in Southern hospitality; you will love every minute of your stay here

They describe their “historic Bywater Center Hall home as an escape from the hustle and bustle of the French Quarter.” It features a grand hardwood and granite bar, beautifully appointed dining rooms and a lush backyard with a cabana lounge, pool, bar and outdoor kitchen.

The Country Club pool is the perfect oasis for locals and tourists to come together for food, drink and fun

The Country Club is open seven days a week from 10 a.m. to 1 a.m. Their Happy Hour is 4 p.m. to 7 p.m. daily.

And there you have it. Don’t say we didn’t take care of you!

Shaun Nelson-Henrick

How to Travel Happier: 10 Tips

Since you’re planning to visit our fair city we know you’re someone who loves to travel – no matter where you live: north, south, east or west in the United States and beyond. For this reason I was delighted to come across an ENTIRE ISSUE of AFAR magazine, 10/19 that celebrated their 10th anniversary and explored the subject of happier traveling.

All this happy artwork is courtesy of AFAR magazine, October 2019

The owners and editor named it “The Happiness Issue” which is really a creative breakthrough because in my entire life I’ve never seen a publication devote a whole issue to this topic. They give 10 very useful ideas that, I believe, will be of interest. The first five on the list have been put together by Lyndsey Matthews who’s done an excellent job.

1.     Go to a new place every year: “Travel is about being brought out of your routine,” says Meik Wiking, an author and the CEO of the Happiness Research Institute, a think tank based in Copenhagen. “It is about experiencing new things, a new culture, new food and new people. It’s a quick route to having new memories and novel experiences.

2.     Leave your comfort zone: The right kind of stress can help us remember certain details. As Wiking explains, “People remember emotions. When they do something that frightens them a bit, it gets their adrenaline pumping.”

3.     Engage all your senses: Experiences that stimulate several senses have a better chance of making a memorable moment according to Wiking. “Smelling, tasting and listening are all crucial memory triggers. (He’s right. I still remember the first time I heard all the crickets chirping at night on Block Island.)

4.     Go ahead, buy that souvenir: Objects that remind us of a time and place relieve our brains from having to remember everything. Buying a souvenir is a way to do this. “And,” says Wiking, “I don’t mean a tacky Eiffel Tower. It can be a really nice vase you bought in Paris.”

5.     End your trip on a high note: Psychologist Daniel Kahneman has developed the Peak-End Theory, which says that we remember experiences by their most intense moment and how they ended. “So you might want to finish a trip on a high. For some this may mean eating at a Michelin-starred restaurant – for others it might be skydiving.” (This is much more humble, but for our last night we returned to a restaurant in St. Thomas in the Virgin Islands and had, for the third time, the best chilled cucumber soup either of us had ever tasted.)

Now, we’re on to the second half of this piece which is headlined, “Plan Your Best Trip” and has been edited by Aislyn Greene who begins with, “In 2018, Yale professor Laurie Santos launched ‘Psychology and the Good Life,’ a course meant to help stressed-out students live happier, more satisfying lives.

6.     How do you put what you teach into practice on the road? We’re faced with new places and experiences, so it’s often easier to be mindful and notice things. I try to savor the moment when I travel because it’s easy to stay present in a new restaurant or place. I also like to savor the free, unscheduled time when I get on trains and planes. There’s nothing I have to get through on a plane the way I do in normal life.

7.     Why is unscheduled free time so important to our wellbeing? There are studies that show that those who have unscheduled time tend to be happier overall than those who don’t. When you’re running from meeting to meeting, you don’t take time to talk to the barista at the coffee shop – those simple social interactions bring wellbeing. I try to talk to new people during my travels.

8.     How would you describe the American attitude towards free time? As a country, we developed along the Protestant work ethic – which emphasizes industry and discipline. Benjamin Franklin saw idleness almost as a sin. But the psychological data shows that’s an incorrect notion. Going abroad can make one realize how it is valued in other countries. When you’re traveling, linger a little longer in a restaurant or take a siesta break.

9.     When you observe other travelers, what do you think? Well, I’ve seen people at a beautiful white-sand beach with a gorgeous sunset and they’re on their phone checking their email. I want to say – you’re missing a great sight!

10. Why do Americans tend to “over schedule” their itineraries? We think we’re going to miss something. We forget that serendipity is what we’re really missing – there are things that are not on our itinerary that are important. “For example,” says Santos, “my husband’s uncle was in town and he’d recently visited the Leaning Tower of Pisa. He said it’s hard to get close to the tower or even see it, because hundreds are around it – shooting for their Instagram posts.” When you’re doing that, you may be missing the unusual accents around you or other things. Photos can enhance our memories of an experience, but we miss out on all the things we’re NOT taking photos of – things that can be some of the most powerful parts of the experience.

Shaun Nelson-Henrick      

What Happens in New Orleans in May?

NEW ORLEANS JAZZ & HERITAGE FESTIVAL: It’s springtime in NOLA so the weather is very pleasant. This year, the May festivities start on Sunday, May 3rd with Jazz Fest. Wait a minute – the word “start” is not quite correct. Actually it’s the LAST DAY of this event because in 2020 Jazz Fest starts on Thursday, April 23rd and ends Sunday, April 26th – then picks up again a week later on Thursday, April 30th to end on Sunday, May 3rd. This event is held at the Fair Grounds Race Course & Slots, the third-largest racetrack in the country, which is at 1751 Gentilly Boulevard in New Orleans.

When Jazz Fest recently celebrated its 50th Anniversary it drew a record-breaking 475,000 festival attendees – one of the biggest numbers in the history of this event. Over the years it has grown from a small neighborhood gathering to an over-the-top two-weekend party with music, food, artisan tents, crafts for sale and more. 

TIME TO CELEBRATE CINCO DE MAYO: Which is Spanish for the “Fifth of May” and is an annual celebration to commemorate the Mexican Army’s victory over the French at the Battle of Puebla on May 5, 1862. It’s a very big deal here in New York City. I happened to be at Party City at 34 West 14th Street on May 4th one year and the store was bursting at the seams with customers buying everything in sight for this festive day. In New Orleans it’s time for you to head for a great frozen margarita and tacos on this special day. Our vote is for Casa Borrega – which is located at 1719 Oretha Castle Haley Boulevard in New Orleans. You’ll love it – lots of atmosphere!

IT’S TIME TO HONOR MOUTH-WATERING SHRIMP on National Shrimp Day that falls on May 10th. But let’s face it a chilled Gulf Coast shrimp cocktail is great anytime. If you’re hankering for a delicious Fried Shrimp Po-Boy head out to Deanie’s Seafood Restaurant in the French Quarter. It’s located at 841 Iberville Street and they’ve been serving huge portions of the best boiled, broiled and fried seafood for over 50 years. (I buy big, fat shrimp at the Kips Bay Fairway at 550 Second Avenue and serve it with Louisiana Cocktail sauce made with fresh horseradish – it’s to die for.

MOTHER’S DAY IS SUNDAY, MAY 10TH SO HOP TO IT and do the right thing by treating her to brunch (or dinner) on this special day at the Apolline restaurant located at 4729 Magazine Street. I took a look at their menu on the web and the first two items are described as “Bottomless Mimosas and Bloody Marys. Then, in case you didn’t quite get it, they add “all you can drink.”  Before the two of you get smashed and can’t remember what you’re celebrating may I suggest Eggs Apolline that includes a house made biscuit, smoked andouille sausage, Louisiana crawfish tails and poached eggs with hollandaise sauce. That should do it.

FROM FRIDAY, MAY 15TH TO SUNDAY, MAY 17TH there’s a party on the bayou when Bayou Boogaloo comes to Bayou St. John in Mid-City. What makes this weekend special is the location on the banks of Bayou St. John. Folks fill the bayou and enjoy the music from their small boats, kayaks, canoes, inflatables or anything that floats. One can stroll about, grab some great food and drink then go and sit by the waterside and enjoy this lively scene. This fun event has been going strong since 2006.

If it floats you’ll find it at Bayou Boogaloo

FINALLY WE’RE AT MONDAY, MAY 25TH: MEMORIAL DAY which is the perfect time to visit the National World War II Museum – a must-see for all patriots and history lovers. The museum was founded in 1991 and is located at 945 Magazine Street in New Orleans. The cost is $28 for adults, $24 for seniors and $18 for students. World War II vets and others are admitted FREE – be sure and ask about this.

Now you’re set for the month of May.

IMPORTANT UPDATE: Some of these events may be canceled – BUT Mother’s Day has to be celebrated NO MATTER WHAT. Be sure and send an email, make a phone call or get everyone to send greetings via ZOOM.

Shaun Nelson-Henrick

A Must-Visit Restaurant

One of my favorite publications is Southern Living – it never disappoints! Each issue of the magazine seems to offer a topic that is totally new to me. In December 2019 an interview with JoAnn Clevenger, the owner of the Upperline restaurant in New Orleans caught my eye at once.

All photos are courtesy of Southern Living magazine

After I read the article I decided to check out the Upperline on the web and was astounded to see the number of awards it had won in recent years. Namely, they are: (A) Finalist for the James Beard Award in 2014, 2017 and 2018. (B) Semi-finalist in 2010, 2015 and 2016. (C) Restaurant of the Year by the Times Picayune Nola.com (it has been around since January 25, 1837).

The restaurant is located at 1413 Upperline Street in an 1877 townhouse that showcases fascinating art and memorabilia. It’s only 15 minutes from the French Quarter and features classic New Orleans dishes and newer versions of Creole cuisine. The restaurant opens for dinner at 5:30 pm from Wednesday through Sunday.

The dining rooms at Upperline feel more like a home than a restaurant. Or, as Clevenger says, “To me, the most important thing about New Orleans is that people who are different from each other rub shoulders. The neighborhoods are mixed up with a big house here and a little house there – right next to it.”

She curates Upperline’s art collection in a similarly egalitarian way. Hundreds of paintings cover the walls, line the bar and perch over tables. In the corner of the front dining room there’s a rendering of New Orleans Saints quarterback Drew Brees, as the Krewe of Bacchus, Mardi Gras king. Clevenger made sure the artist came back to add the Super Bowl ring!

Amazingly, her grandparents were sharecroppers in Alexandria, Louisiana. “My first little job ever was when I was about five years old. I picked up pecans for my grandpa,” she says. She carried a dried bamboo pole around the grove and nudged the tree branches to shake the shells loose. “Not too hard though – I didn’t want the green ones to fall.” Talk about acquiring the American Dream – this is a classic example – or as she says, “I believe in a puritanical work ethic and have no plans to retire.” She turns 81 in May of this year and is still going strong.

JoAnn Clevenger, the owner of Upperline in New Orleans

Every day she wears the same Parisian crimson-and-black tunic with the practicality of farmer’s overalls or the feed-sack dresses of her childhood. (There are eight replicas of her tunic hanging in her closet.) Affixed to the collar of her uniform is her gold Girl Scout pin, which she says is a reminder to be strong, brave, patient and kind.” (Some things never leave one – as a Girl Scout myself, I still use the knots I learned. Hats off to this marvelous organization that’s been around for 108 years!)

Clevenger estimates that she’s talked to over a million guests at their tables over the years and notes, “When you go into CVS or Walmart, no one looks at you. You’re alone. Here, the server looks at you. The people at your table look at you. You see the expressions on their faces if you tell a joke. And, if someone at the next table asks what you had, you smile and say, ‘it was rack of lamb’ – it’s a very intimate setting – you’re not anonymous.” Nicely said – now take a look at a marvelous Upperline offering.

Taste of New Orleans Dinner   $48

** Sample Menu **2

Tasting Portions of 7 Creole Favorites Served In 3 Courses

Gumbo   Turtle Soup   Duck Etouffee
Fried Green Tomato with Shrimp Remoulade
Spicy Shrimp with Cornbread
Slow Roasted Quarter Duckling with choice of Sauce
Choice of dessert from list below

UPDATE: This restaurant may be closed due to the current situation that we all find ourselves in these days. But make a note for the future – and come pay a visit to Upperline. 

Shaun Nelson-Henrick