Things That Drive People Nuts!

For Rathbone, I make a point of focusing on New Orleans or the Deep South when I choose a topic.  However, when I came across a fascinating article in National Geographic magazine, January 2020, titled “The Science of Annoyance” I decided that this was definitely a UNIVERSAL issue. 

“I do not want to hear LOL one more time”

All of this annoying art is courtesy of National Geographic – the editor says that this topic is definitely a one-off. “Don’t bet the rent money,” replies Palca.

Whether one lives on the East or West coast – up North or down South there are certain things in day-to-day living that drive people crazy. This particular piece, which is cleverly written by Joe Palca, starts out this way.

“Picture yourself at a crowded airport departure gate. (I’ll bet you’re already interested.) Your flight is 20 minutes late, although the illuminated sign still says ON TIME. The woman on your left is noisily eating something that smells awful.” (Yes, I recently saw a female eating a plate of chicken nuggets on the subway. Gross.)

No one looks at the real thing anymore.

“The overhead TV is tuned to a celebrity gossip program that includes a relentless stream of Bieber, Gwyneth and Miley. This lineup is topped by the Kardashians. No wait. It gets better. The man on your right is braying into his cell phone and the one on the left? My God, is that a toenail clipper?” 

UNLESS YOU ARE SAINTLY OR UNCONSCIOUS there are a few – or many things in the above – that are really going to bug you. (I’d be bugged by all of them.) Let’s take a look: (#1) What makes something annoying? (#2) Are some things universally annoying or specific to an individual? (#3) Is there any advice for preventing life’s annoyances from making one’s head feel as if it’s going to explode. THE ANSWERS ARE: (#1) We don’t know, (#2) We don’t know and (#3) No.  

ANNOYANCE MAY BE THE MOST WIDELY EXPERIENCED and least studied of all human emotions. Ten years ago, Palca wrote a book titled “Annoying: The Science of What Bugs Us” and noticed the lack of studies on this topic. Have any scholars stepped up to the plate? No. Nothing. Nada. Zilch.  

HAS THE PROLIFERATION OF THINGS THAT ANNOY US slowed down? No, quite the opposite: social media is now in every sphere of our existence. This includes Twitter (which is everywhere), the unwelcome bounty of robocalls, the invasive assault of personalized and pop-up ads, plus selfie sticks and typing symbols to prove you’re not a robot.

Pop-ups bring on the urge to kill

WHAT ARE THE THREE ELEMENTS THAT MAKE something annoying? They are: (#1) It must be noxious without being physically harmful, for example a housefly buzzing around your head is annoying, but it won’t kill you, (#2) It must be unpredictable and intermittent, e.g., the loud ticking of a clock or if you know you’re going to be stuck in traffic you might be able to take it in stride BUT when it’s unexpected, it gets to you before you can stop yourself, (#3) To be truly annoying, something has to persist for an uncertain amount of time, e.g., a flight that is delayed and delayed and delayed with no end in sight is excruciatingly annoying. 

AN INTRIGUING THING ABOUT ANNOYANCES IS HOW they change over time. In the past, cell phone conversations seemed annoying only to people not on the phone. Today, the call recipient seems to be getting annoyed because the thinking seems to be: “Why call when a text will do?” Or, “you should have texted to ask if you could call.” Absurd!

THE MOST ANNOYING NOISES ARE: barking dogs, leaf blowers, car alarms and knuckles cracking while ANNOYING PEOPLE are telemarketers who don’t stop at the first “no.”

“I see your lips moving – but I can’t hear a thing”

Finally, this article ends with a half-finished sentence and an EDITOR’S NOTE that says, “The contract for this article set a strict word limit. The writer exceeded the limit; the magazine feels obliged to enforce it. We regret any annoyance this might cause.” Hilarious. They also add a description of Joe Palca, a science correspondent, as “his ability to annoy others is legendary” – a fun piece from start to finish. 

Shaun Nelson-Henrick

The Lure of the Mississippi River

The subject of my senior thesis at Columbia was the famous author Mark Twain aka Samuel Clemens (1835-1910) and his views on organized religion – which were quite negative. Or, as he says, “All religions are alike in one respect: none can make a man happy when he’s out of luck.” That says it all so let’s move on and discuss the Mississippi River that Twain loved and wrote about many times.

In 1886 Mark Twain noted that, “Along the Upper Mississippi every hour brings something new. There are islands, bluffs, prairies, hills, woods and villages.”

AT THE AGE OF 21 TWAIN BECAME A STEAMBOAT PILOT but the Civil War ended that career four years later when all river traffic was halted. However, at 28-years-old when he was a newspaper reporter in Nevada, he began using a pen name, “Mark Twain” (meaning “Mark number two”) which was a Mississippi River term: the second mark on the line that measured depth. It signified “two fathoms or 12 feet” – a safe depth for a steamboat.

NOW LET’S TAKE A LOOK AT THIS FAMOUS RIVER. It starts in Lake Itasca in Minnesota and flows south through or along 10 states for 2,320 miles (3,730 km) to the Gulf of Mexico – when it joins the Missouri River at St. Louis it becomes “muddy.”

THERE ARE SEVEN RIVERFRONT TOWNS ALONG THIS RIVER and one of them, Baton Rouge, Louisiana has had FLOOD events (that lasted 30 days or longer) for a total of 22 times in 92 years.

A DIVERSE WILDLIFE ON THIS RIVER AND ITS FLOODPLAIN is there for all. To summarize:

#1  There are at least 260 species of fish

#2  And 326 species of birds that use the Mississippi as their migratory flyway

#3  On the Lower Mississippi you’ll find as many as 60 separate species of mussels

#4  There are at least 145 species of amphibians and reptiles in the Upper Mississippi

HOW DO ADVENTUROUS FOLKS TACKLE THE MISSISSIPPI?

This is where things get interesting. On the web a travel writer named Nigel Richardson reports that six years ago he took a trip down the Mississippi on a classic steamboat (this is what I’d love to do). One of his fellow passengers that he calls “Jim from Montana” claimed that he had sailed every navigable river in America and “Unless you’ve seen this country from its rivers, you haven’t seen it.”

Now here’s a second story that I found fascinating. Four couples – they had been friends for years – wanted to go down the Mississippi. They had already taken some “non-standard” trips together, such as: four-wheeling and zip-lining excursions plus exploring Mexico in rented Jeeps (I did this with Peter, my husband and it’s unpredictable, hairy stuff). 

They began by buying a 40-ft. boat, fixing it up and carefully planning their route. They decided to spend 14 days aboard (11 hours a day at 10 miles per hour) to travel 1,260 miles to the Gulf of Mexico. Then they would stop, tie up every night and eat dinner out. And how did this end? “All of us are still good friends and now we’re planning our next trip,” said one. And by the way, the boat’s name was, “It’s All Good.”

FOUR TOUGH GUYS WHO WENT PADDLING FOR A CAUSE

Here’s a third story – and my favorite. It’s about four Ohio college students who made a 53-day, 2,300-mile trip in kayaks down the Mississippi. This was done as a “creative endeavor” to raise awareness about affordable housing. Important point: NONE OF THE FOUR had any significant kayaking experience!

The paddlers quickly learned that rain, aching muscles, overturned boats and losing items such as sunglasses and shoes in the water was just part of the deal. Other challenges included cooking the high-calorie dinners they needed to keep their strength up and, of course, the weather. They stayed in a motel for one night only – many nights they camped out in the rain.

They planned to go 50 miles a day. But towards the end they had to push for 70 or 80 miles. “You stop feeling your arms,” said one. At one point, between Baton Rouge and New Orleans they were amongst huge tows and barges. One remembers thinking, “We shouldn’t be here.”

But the thrill came from overcoming the challenges and volunteering at seven Habitat for Humanity sites. They were also amazed at the number of people who befriended them along the way. One man literally gave them the shirt off his back. And then, he handed over his sunglasses.

I trust you now know more about the magical Mississippi.  

Shaun Nelson-Henrick

Dolly Parton is a Southern Icon

Ages ago I became aware of Dolly Parton when I read that she said, “Listen, it takes a lot of time and money to look this cheap!” I practically fell on the floor laughing and, of course, loved her at once for having the nerve to poke fun at her much-talked-about image.

Then recently I came upon an article in Elle magazine of November 2019 that sported a one-word headline, “Icon.” The writer, Veronique Hyland deftly explores Parton’s background and her career – right up to the present day. I’ve focused on the parts that really interest me.

AS OF JANUARY 19th she turned 74 and she’s still out there rockin’ – I think that’s great! I’ve read many times that Parton was born in the family home that’s situated on Tennessee’s Locust Ridge in the Great Smoky Mountains. By the way, Tennessee is bordered by eight states. She’s the fourth of 12 children who were raised in a two-room cabin with no running water or electricity.

BUT THAT DIDN’T STOP her. Parton began by appearing on TV at the age of 10. Then she married Carl Dean at 20. The two met in 1964 outside the Wishy Washy Laundromat on the very first day Parton moved to Nashville shortly after her high school graduation. A year later Porter Wagoner invited her to appear on his hit syndicated TV show. She was there until 1974 when she was 28 and itching to move on and make her dreams come true.

A BOMBSHELL EXTERIOR and a sharp businesswoman all rolled into one. That’s a good description of Parton. In the ‘70s she wrote “I Will Always Love You,” and Elvis wanted to record it. But his manager, Colonel Tom Parker wanted half the publishing rights and Parton said, “No.” Moving on, in 1980 she appeared in the movie 9 to 5 and nine years later she played the role of Truvy Jones in Steel Magnolias.

“I WRITE IT. I SING IT. I LIVE IT,” says Parton. “If I’m not a good example of a woman in power, I don’t know who is.” Beyond her more public Hollywood successes she also has a production company that’s responsible for Buffy the Vampire Slayer and Father of the Bride movies.

LET’S NOT FORGET DOLLYWOOD the theme park jointly owned by Parton (since 1986) and Herschend Family Entertainment. It’s located in Pigeon Forge, Tennessee and has been described as a “very country” park that offers “something for everyone” e.g., thrilling rides, musical shows and the Dollywood Express, a steam train that goes up into the mountains.

And boy! Can you eat in Dollywood! You’ll love their country cooking. Be sure to try the cinnamon bread: they sell roughly 350 loaves of bread per hour! Or, stop at the Front Porch Café for meatloaf that a Food & Wine magazine reviewer described as “by far the best I’ve had in years.”

SO LOOK WHO’S LOVIN’ DOLLY NOW! At the 2019 Grammys, admirers including Musgraves, Katy Perry and Parton’s goddaughter, Miley Cyrus, performed with her. They’re just some of the young artists who are very much for their talented “Dolly.”

Parton performing with Katy Perry and Kacey Musgraves at the 2019 Grammy Awards – all photos courtesy of Elle magazine

“It’s a very humbling, but warm and wonderful, experience for me to get up there and do a whole set with all those young, talented girls. I’m proud to be their Aunt Dolly or their mama. I’ll definitely be their Dolly Mama,” she says with a big laugh.

Like we said earlier: she’s still rockin’ and still fun. CLICK HERE to listen to Parton and her huge hit “Jolene” that was written in 1973 and is now popular with Generation Z music lovers. 

Shaun Nelson-Henrick

Look What's Coming in April

The month of April looks pretty busy. I always associate April with tax time – but that’s only part of the story. Let’s take a look at what’s shaking in NOLA this year.

FIRST

There’s the GAY EASTER PARADE that’s held on Easter Sunday, April 12, 2020 and was started as a fun way to showcase the fashion and creativity of the LGBT (the acronym for Gay, Bisexual, Lesbian or Transgender) community.

The colorful Gay Easter Parade in New Orleans

The parade is from 4:30 to 6:30 pm. It takes a leisurely route through the French Quarter – passing every gay bar plus many gay-owned restaurants and retail shops. The folks in the parade ride horse-drawn carriages (a glam touch) and floats while wearing showy versions of their Easter Sunday finest. Spectators can expect to see and catch beads and other throws.

SECOND

Moving on to Thursday, April 16th to Sunday, April 19th we have the FRENCH QUARTER FESTIVAL, a free, four-day music festival that takes place in the historic French Quarter of New Orleans (the oldest neighborhood in the city, founded in 1718). This event also takes place in Woldenberg Park, Jackson Square and the New Orleans Jazz Museum.

The French Quarter Festival heats up with music and marching

On Thursday and Sunday, the festival is from 11 am to 7 pm. On Friday and Saturday the music runs from 11 am to 9 pm. You’ll have access to a varied and mind-boggling musical feast that includes: jazz, funk, Latin rhythms, Cajun, brass bands and R&B.

THIRD

Now, we’re heading for the end of the month and the 51st NEW ORLEANS JAZZ & HERITAGE FESTIVAL that takes place from Thursday, April 23rd to Sunday, April 26th plus from Thursday, April 30th to Sunday, May 3rd. CLICK HERE to read our write-up about Jazz Fest in 2019 – you’ll find lots of interesting info.

Take Note: The French Quarter Fest and Jazz Fest 2020 will be held on back-to-back weekends – this is a change from the past.

FOURTH

Now, let’s take a look at other special days in the month of April. There’s APRIL FOOLS’ DAY on Wednesday, April 1st. This, as you undoubtedly know, is a day in which people play practical jokes and good-natured pranks on each other. This day isn’t a holiday in any of the countries where it is observed BUT it’s been popular since the 19th century. In France it’s known as April Fish and, on this day folks attempt to attach paper fish to the backs of unsuspecting friends and colleagues.

April Fools’ Day in Ireland is much the same as in Britain: one comes up with a prank and if someone falls for it, he or she is finally exposed by a loud shout of “April Fool!” However, the playing of pranks has to cease at noon. Anyone who attempts a prank after that time is, instead, making an instant April Fool out of him or herself – these are the local rules of the game.

Another tradition in Ireland is the “Newsflash” that is usually jokingly released by the media on the first day of April. But the public is now so used to this joke that any attempts by the media to pull this off usually fall flat. But wait: in the 1980s a West Berlin newspaper reported that the British Sector of Berlin would soon adopt driving on the left. Lots of ticked off and befuddled folks fell for it!

FIFTH

This year PALM SUNDAY is on April 5th and EASTER SUNDAY, which is the culmination of Holy Week, is on April 12th. This day celebrates the resurrection of Jesus Christ from the dead. The date of Easter changes each year.

So there you have it. The month of April is a very big deal in NOLA and elsewhere.

Shaun Nelson-Henrick    

"No Crashing the Party. Just Joining"

In the Weekend Financial Times of 11/23-24 I came across a terrific piece about a new book that’s a lot of fun titled, Born to Party, Forced to Work by the party planner, Bronson van Wyck. If there ever were words that deserved a second look – those six were it. I checked out Amazon and saw that the book sold for $50. Nope, that’s not for me, I thought.

Bronson van Wyck, the party planner, who counts Barack Obama and Beyoncé among his clientele says, “There’s no crashing the party in New Orleans: it’s just joining the party” – Photo courtesy of the Financial Times

So I decided to put it on hold at the 42nd Street Public Library in NYC. I handed the starchy librarian a note with the title/author written on it and she quickly informed me that it was persona non grata and couldn’t be reserved. Maybe it’s my imagination but I had the feeling the title really threw her. For the record, I love it.

The remarks that are excerpted in the Financial Times are all about New Orleans – one of the author’s favorite spots on planet Earth. He starts by saying, “The house where I grew up in rural Arkansas, was built of 100-year-old materials from a dilapidated building in New Orleans. My mother fell in love with the patina of the brick and the slate roof, so we floated the materials up the Mississippi. I’ve felt a deep connection with New Orleans ever since.”

HE LOVES THE NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM because he’s a history nerd. “I love the amazing Cajun swamp boat that was built in New Orleans and was the model for the landing craft used by the Allied armies at Normandy,” he says. This museum is located at 945 Magazine Street.

FOR LUNCH IT’S THE DOMILISE RESTAURANT AND BAR that has been offering shrimp, roast beef and ham po’boys plus beer in a counter-serve space since 1924. You’ll find this 96-year-old no-nonsense joint at 5240 Annunciation Street.

AFTER LUNCH TAKE A STROLL DOWN TO 3963 MAGAZINE in the Garden District and stop at Mac Maison Ltd. a shop that has the best selection of French and Italian chandeliers you’ll ever see.

IF YOU’RE A GUY BE SURE AND STOP AT AIDAN GILL FOR MEN, a barbershop run by an Irishman who does great haircuts and straight edge razor shaves. You’ll find this place at 2026 Magazine.

FOR DINNER GO TO GAUTREAU’S AT 1728 SONIAT STREET a glam restaurant where you may have the Mayor at one table, a Voodoo Queen at another or singer Harry Connick Jr. at another if he’s singing at Preservation Hall that night. Try the roasted duck with chocolate mole. Delicious!

THEN HEAD FOR COCKTAILS AT TONIQUE IN THE FRENCH QUARTER at 820 N. Rampart which is a dive bar (sawdust on the floor) but they make the best cocktails you’ve ever had. Try the Sazerac: cognac mixed with bitters, a sugar cube and a little Herbsaint (a ainse-flavored liqueur).  

FOR “THE-DAY-AFTER” COCKTAILS WHEN REALITY SETS IN head for Brennan’s Restaurant for their fabulous hair-of-the-dog milk punch. They’ve been around since 1946 and can be found at 417 Royal Street.

AND THEN HAVE BRUNCH AT COMMANDER’S PALACE (one of my favorite restaurants). They’ve been in business since 1880 and can be found at 1403 Washington Avenue. Their turtle soup and eggs Sardou are sublime.

Finally, treat yourself to a New Orleans Saints American football game where – when the team appears – they play When The Saints Go Marching In. This is a totally unique New Orleans’ experience you’ll never forget!

CLICK HERE to hear and sing with the fabulous Weavers – we’re giving you both the music and lyrics to this terrific song.

Shaun Nelson-Henrick

Moving from New Orleans to Baton Rouge

Mardi Gras is now over for the year 2020 so it’s time to bid farewell to the 1.4 million visitors who participated in the parades, festivities and masquerade balls in “The City That Care Forgot” and travel 80 miles north to Baton Rouge, the capitol of Louisiana.

The name “Baton Rouge” itself is provocative. In French it literally means “red stick” and refers back to 1699 when French explorers spied a red cypress tree stripped of its bark that marked the boundary between Houma and Bayou tribal hunting grounds. They decided to call the tree “le baton rouge” or red stick.

This Red Stick sculpture on Scott’s Bluff (now a part of Southern University’s campus) pays homage to how the city of Baton Rouge got its name

Today, Baton Rouge is the second largest metropolitan city in Louisiana and has a population estimated at 230,000. However, the Greater Baton Rouge area has 825,000 people – which is considerably more. The city is located on the banks of the Mississippi River and has a number of historical landmarks.

One of the most stunning is the OLD STATE CAPITOL BUILDING which is known for its Gothic design and filled with political artifacts. Best of all, it is built on a bluff that offers great views of the Mississippi.

If you’re interested in how folks lived in days gone by then visit the MAGNOLIA MOUND PLANTATION that is not really a plantation, but a French Creole-style house built in 1791. You can follow this with a stop at the LSU RURAL LIFE MUSEUM that showcases the history of rural life in this city from the 18th century onwards. 

THE TIGER IS VERY POPULAR IN THIS CITY

Mike the Tiger is the official mascot of the Louisiana State University (established in 1853 and home to 250 buildings on 650 acres). One of the things you can do in Baton Rouge is pay him a visit. For the past 83 years there have been seven Bengal tigers, all named “Mike” who have lived on the Louisiana State campus across from the Tiger Stadium.  

Handsome Mike the Tiger at Louisiana State University

One viewer describes the tiger’s habitat this way, “It’s 15,000 sq. ft. of lush planting that includes a 20 ft. oak tree, a waterfall and a pool that allows an underwater view of Mike the Tiger swimming.” Apparently, the big cat gets excellent care and has many friends who visit him regularly. He’s not lonely.

This brings us to the LSU TIGER STADIUM that is also known as “Death Valley” because of the electrifying football games that are played there. Its claim to fame is this: Tiger Stadium is the ninth largest stadium in the world with a capacity of over 100,000 spectators.

WHAT YOU’LL FIND IN BATON ROUGE TODAY

The downtown area stretches along the picturesque banks of the majestic Mississippi River. This is where you’ll find restaurants, bars and even casinos. Which brings me to this: In 1991, Louisiana was the fourth state to approve riverboat casinos – all are required to remain dockside and all are open 24 hours. If you win a jackpot of $1,200 or more the Louisiana Department of Revenue will withhold 6% of your winnings. Like the casinos in Las Vegas there are no clocks on the gaming floor in order to ensure players lose track of time and play longer so the casinos can win more.

Hollywood Casino Baton Rouge

Here are a few quotes for visitors who gambled on riverboat casinos.

“Spent a few relaxing hours playing table games at the Hollywood casino. It is a modern casino built on what appears to be an old paddleboat moored on the Mississippi. Greatly enjoyed my time and even won a few bucks.”

“Easy access with ample parking. The boat was clean and had a great number of slot machines. There were also lots of table games and the restaurants were very nice. Would recommend visiting.”

“We thoroughly enjoyed our $15 buffet lunch. Good food and an amazing view of the Mississippi River.”

Shaun Nelson-Henrick  

Is Anything Happening in March?

Since we’re heading for the very popular Tennessee Williams Festival I thought I’d mention the once-and-only time I saw the famous playwright in New York. We were strolling up Third Avenue at 60th Street when he popped out of an Italian restaurant. No one recognized him – but I did and I was taken aback. He looked much smaller than I imagined him to be. I’ve had that reaction before: celebrities often look bigger or smaller than one pictures them. For example, Sofia Loren looked like a towering statue, well over six feet. Carlo Ponti barely came up to her shoulder – when we saw them near the Plaza.

The thing about Williams was that even though the street was crowded he seemed to be looking intently at each person who passed. It was as if he was memorizing the images passing in front of him, drinking in every detail. This was when he was at the height of his fame and fortune.

BUT IT WASN’T ALWAYS LIKE THIS

Tennessee Williams at 18 Years Old

From his early twenties he worked very hard to become a celebrated playwright. At 18-years-old he enrolled at the University of Missouri, left a year later and took a job as a sales clerk for $65 per month at the International Shoe Company – which he hated. In spite of many ups and downs in his life Williams kept writing and pursuing a college degree. Finally in 1938, when he was 27-years-old, he graduated from the University of Iowa with a BA in English.

AN INSPIRATION: THE MOVE TO NOLA

Seven years later when he was 34-years-old, a play that he had been working on for a number of years called, The Glass Menagerie, opened on Broadway and was lauded by the New York critics. His life and fortunes were changed forever.

Two years later, A Streetcar Named Desire opened in 1947 with an actor named Marlon Brando giving a performance that is still celebrated 73 years later. Come to the Tennessee Williams Festival and you’ll see what I mean.

For fun, here’s my favorite Brando story. At age 23 he was asked to audition at the Nantucket house the playwright had rented for the summer. Brando was three days late and according to Williams “around dusk in the last week of August, he walked into a scene of domestic cataclysm. The kitchen floor was flooded, the light fuse had blown and the lavatories were blocked. Then, amazingly, Brando fixed the lights and unblocked the pipes. You’d think he had spent his entire life repairing drains. He was also about the best-looking young man I’d ever seen. An hour later he read the script just as he played it. After listening for only 10 minutes Margo Jones (a producer known as The Texas Tornado) bolted from her chair and shouted, ‘Get Kazan (the director) on the phone. This is the greatest reading I’ve ever heard, in or out of Texas.’” 

THE AWARDS TENNESSEE WILLIAMS WON FOR HIS WORK

The list is very impressive: four Drama Critic Circle Awards, two Pulitzer Prizes (A Streetcar Named Desire and Cat on a Hot Tin Roof) and four nominations for the Tony Award – winning once for The Rose Tattoo.

NOW LET’S TALK ABOUT THE FESTIVAL

Front and center: You guessed it – he’s shouting “STELLA!!!!!!!”

The annual Tennessee Williams Literary Festival takes place this year from Wednesday, March 25th to Sunday, March 29th. It features talented authors, playwrights and actors for engaging and spirited literary panels – in addition to cocktail parties, book signings, movie screenings and literary walking tours. And, as I hinted earlier, don’t miss the “Stella” shouting contest à la Stanley Kowalski. Even better, CLICK HERE to see the website for this Festival. I’m sure Tennessee would love it.

(Make sure your sound is on)

MORE IN MARCH: THE LOUISIANA CRAWFISH FEST

This month ends in a blaze of glory. The Fest is from Thursday, March 26th to Sunday, March 29th. The state of Louisiana celebrates just about every crop harvested, every indigenous dish and every type of music – from blues, jazz, swamp pop and more. Crawfish festivals are held from New Orleans to Shreveport and from Lake Charles to Breaux Bridge. Come and feast!

Shaun Nelson-Henrick 

Slavery's Impact on the South

This is the first time I’ve written about this subject – obviously I’ve avoided it because it’s so tragic. Recently I came across a write-up titled, “America’s Original Sin” in The Week magazine of 8/30/19 that presented an excellent picture of slavery and how it shaped this country.

WHO BROUGHT IN THE FIRST SLAVES?

The selling of a slave in the United States

In 1619 or 401 years ago (more than a year before the Pilgrims arrived at Plymouth Rock) an English ship named the White Lion landed in Virginia. The crew traded between 20 and 30 Africans in chains for food from the natives. This is the first instance of enslaved people arriving in one of the 13 colonies.

HOW WERE THESE PEOPLE TREATED?

At first, the Africans were considered indentured servants, not slaves, because many of them had been baptized Christian when they were seized. They were forced to work in the fields alongside about 1,000 white indentured servants. Conditions were brutal. Many workers died before their terms of service expired. White Europeans sold themselves into servitude (four to seven years) in exchange for transportation to the New World. A handful of Africans also managed to work their way to freedom.

Slave quarters on a plantation in the South

WHAT CHANGED BETWEEN 1619 AND 1650?

Whites gradually imposed a rigid racial caste system that locked Africans into perpetual status as lesser beings with no rights. In 1662, the colony decreed that children born to enslaved women would inherit their mother’s status. In 1676, an uprising by white and black workers deeply alarmed the aristocracy. By the early 18th century the colonies had passed slave codes that stripped blacks of all rights.

WHY DID SLAVERY SPREAD IN THE SOUTH?

Slaves on a plantation in South Carolina

Quite simply: it made those who owned slaves very rich. Southern planters growing tobacco and rice had a great need for workers and slaves were cheaper than indentured servants. By 1756 enslaved people made up more than a quarter of the population in and around the city of New York. Then in 1860, there were 4.4 million black people living in the United States – of those 3.9 million were enslaved.

HOW DID SLAVE LABOR AFFECT THE UNITED STATES?

It was critical to the economic success of the American colonies. Enslaved workers even built the Capitol and the White House in Washington. It gradually declined in the North, but the invention of the cotton gin made it even more popular in the South. Cotton made up more than half of all U.S. exports during the antebellum period.

Enslaved workers laid nearly 10,000 miles of railroad tracks – a third of the nation’s total by the time of the Civil War. “The idea that the forced labor of blacks is what made America is not what people are happy to hear,” wrote historian Edward Baptist. “But it’s the truth.”

WHAT IS SLAVERY’S IMPRINT ON AMERICA TODAY?

When federal troops pulled out of the South in 1877, the newly freed slaves were locked out of political and economic life. A century of legal discrimination crippled black families’ ability to get decent educations, find jobs, buy homes and build wealth. That legacy endures: in 2016, the average black family had a net worth of $17,600 – compared with $171,000 for the average white family.

Shaun Nelson-Henrick   

New Orleans vs. Las Vegas

The best quote that I’ve seen recently regarding these two supposedly wicked spots is this, “New Orleans has evolved into the sybaritic (fond of pleasure or self-indulgent), Dionysian (the Greek god of theatre, wine and overall lechery) capital of America, perhaps the world. Las Vegas performs in Amateur Hour by comparison.” I think these two sentences, which were written by Timothy O’Grady and appeared in the Condé Nast Traveler of November 2019 are a marvel of creativity and wit. Explanatory comments in brackets are mine.  

The article itself is titled At Full Blast and boasts a subhead that says, “New Orleans is a city of obstinate revelry and artful excess, a flavor-packed hub that’s forever renewing itself.”

WHAT’S WITH THESE STREET NAMES?

O’Grady notes that, “There are many things about New Orleans that are unlike anywhere else, the street names among them. I found myself between PIETY AND DESIRE. (I can’t imagine any streets in New York – crazy and as this city can be at times – ever given names like this.)

Then he goes on to rattle off a few more: a wealthy Creole who loved dice games and fanciful street names came up with these beauties, namely: CRAPS, ABUNDANCE, TREASURE, RUE D’AMOUR and HOPE. (Can you imagine applying for a job and saying, “My address? Oh yes, I live at 4895 Craps Street.) Not to worry. At some point there were 75 streets in New Orleans that were renamed.

WHAT’S WITH THE MUSIC SCENE?

The author goes on to describe the music scene in New Orleans. A talented musician named Jay Pennington describes it this way. “If you want a career in music, go to New York or Los Angeles. But if you want to live the music and play it until you die, come to New Orleans. It’s open, tolerant, appreciative and affordable. It may be the last interesting city in America where it’s possible to be a bohemian.”

WHY IS LIFE HERE A MASKED BALL?

O’Grady has an interesting take on New Orleans that he describes as “a place of unrelenting visual delight where even the houses wear jewelry; of joy and revelry, with a festival it seems, every week. LIFE IS NOT A GRIND HERE or even a cabaret, I’d say that it’s more a masked ball.”

He quotes a friend of 25 years who tells him that, “Our Creole Carnival is a thing of masks. When I was little my parents dressed me as Toulouse-Lautrec. You’d see someone get out of a car in a pharaoh costume. You lived for it. Behind a mask you can be yourself.”

WHY DO EXPATS LOVE NEW ORLEANS?

Ben Jaffe

Ben Jaffe, the son of Preservation Hall’s founders, Allan and Sandra Jaffe, says that, “When my parents came to the French Quarter in 1961, it looked like Paris in the ‘20s to them. It was liberating. The foundation of music here is the funeral. African Americans for more than century, have been paying into neighborhood Social Aid and Pleasure Clubs so they’ll have a good sendoff when they die. In the front line are the steppers and club officials, then family and a marching band. And after that the second line, composed of everyone who wants to join in.”

“Once the body is buried, the drums roll, the tempo picks up, and the music becomes joyful. It honors the dead and provides relief for the living. They eat red beans and rice and catfish and they dance. The second line parades have become such an expression of joy that they happen now on Sundays whether somebody has died or not!”

WHAT HAPPENED TO LAS VEGAS?

I planned to compare it to New Orleans but I’ve lost interest. Don’t misunderstand: I like Vegas. There are the slots, the shows, strolls on the Strip, scenery in the Canyon – but #1 is definitely NOLA. No contest.  

Shaun Nelson-Henrick

Events in NOLA for February 2020, Part 2

We’re moving on from last week’s blog to talk about bringing children to New Orleans for Mardi Gras. You may not believe this, but Mardi Gras is a family celebration. The only place you should avoid with kids is the French Quarter (where no full-size parades pass – so you’re not missing anything). A better idea is to view parades where they begin on St. Charles near Napoleon. The Garden District portion of St. Charles is a family area where many folks stake out their parade watching position.

Daytime Mardi Gras parades are perfect for children – especially Zulu and King Arthur. But the best one is Barkus. This dog parade is full of pups – and, with a name that sounds like Bacchus, it’s sure to be fun.

#9

Here’s more on MARDI GRAS WEEKEND but now we’re looking at Saturday, February 22nd to Wednesday, February 26th or ASH WEDNESDAY (the first day of Lent) – the symbolic use of dust or ashes which dates back to the time of Moses and the Old Testament. Today, the custom is still in use as a priest or minister marks the sign of a cross in ashes on the foreheads of the faithful – this tradition is observed by Catholics, Lutherans, Methodists, Anglicans and Presbyterians worldwide. In Ireland it is also “National No Smoking Day” to encourage smokers to kick the habit.

#10

On Saturday, February 22nd from 1 am to 11 pm the MARDI GRAS DAY TRIP takes place for those who want a quick taste of the excitement without the cost. The Mercedes-Benz Superdome at 1500 Sugar Bowl Drive is involved in this round-trip bus ride. This BYOB (Bring Your Own Bottle) day trip is perfect for those who wish to go via chartered bus with no hotel expense. Drink fixes such as ice, cups and snacks are supplied for those who go on this adventure.

#11

Be prepared to party – especially on MARDI GRAS DAY or Tuesday, February 25th (Fat Tuesday, the last day of the Carnival Season that always falls the day before Ash Wednesday, the first day of Lent). The Mardi Gras Parade time is from 12:30 to 10 pm. This is also the time to enjoy favorite foods that you’ll give up for Lent.

The parades on Mardi Gras Day are arguably the most authentic and beautiful. And, according to one celebrant, “The atmosphere in the French Quarter, Marigny and other New Orleans neighborhoods borders on psychedelic. Legions turn out in all types of costumes while bands and DJs stake out street corners. Everyone is there for one reason: lasseiz les bon temps rouler (let the good times roll).”

#12

I’d like to add this one final note: There are NO TICKETS TO MARDI GRAS. Every parade is a highly public affair, put on by social clubs that spend the whole year preparing for a single day. Millions are spent annually on the event, ALL PRO BONO and for the greater good – many Carnival clubs, officially referred to as Krewes, also fulfill philanthropic goals. But if you really want to spend why not buy a ticket to one of the Carnival Krewe Balls? The Krewe of Endymion throws one of the biggest parties of all – inside the Superdome.

Now, let’s move on to links that will make our visitors happy – just like we did in Part 1.

#13

Just CLICK HERE to read about eight spots that offer delicious eats in The Big Feasty.

#14

Are you in the mood for music? CLICK HERE to read about Frenchmen Street – and more.

#15

If you’re hankering for a day trip out of New Orleans you’ll love our take on this. CLICK HERE for a close look.

#16

One of the spots to explore in the Quarter is an area called the French Market. CLICK HERE to learn more.

CLICK HERE to listen to the Mardi Gras Mambo by The Hawketts

Shaun Nelson-Henrick

Events in NOLA for February 2020, Part 1

You’re in for a big treat: there are many events that happen well before Mardi Gras day itself. The CARNIVAL season always begins on January 6th, which is King’s Day (Feast of the Epiphany). Mardi Gras Day itself (or, as it’s also known, Fat Tuesday) is on a different day every year. This special day always takes place 47 days before Easter.

The celebration of CARNIVAL precedes Lent. It’s a 40-day period that lasts until Easter Sunday and is widely celebrated in Europe and South America. The New Orleans CARNIVAL is the largest one in North America.  Keep in mind that there is no “official” Mardi Gras. It’s a holiday, just like Christmas and Easter. It belongs to everyone. Now let’s see what’s coming down the pike.

#1

Starting on Saturday, January 26th, the ARTS MARKET OF NEW ORLEANS presents a free, monthly open-air marketplace of artwork made by New Orleans and Gulf Coast artists at Palmer Park located at 8211 S. Claiborne Avenue. Each monthly market features between 80 to 130 local artists. The artwork is both affordable and handmade. The selection includes: paintings, ceramics, glasswork and much more. Hours are between 10 am and 4 pm.

#2

On Saturday, February 15th from 7 pm to 10 pm you’ll find the MARDI GRAS BALCONY PARTY at the Bourbon Cowboy, located at 241 Bourbon Street. A ticket will give you three hours of an open bar and lots of bead throwing fun from the second floor balcony to the crowd below. Be sure to bring beads. Tickets are limited and the balcony will rotate. No refunds rain or shine.

#3

A free event takes place on Wednesday, February 19th from 6:15 pm to 11:59 pm with the KREWE OF DRUIDS at Uptown/Carrollton. This event offers New Orleans’ residents and visitors a first-class parade one week before Fat Tuesday. The all-male club does not stage a ball or feature a Queen and court. Its King is known as the Arch Druid and is accompanied on the King’s float by a jester.  

#4

Now, we’re at MARDI GRAS WEEKEND which goes from Saturday, February 22nd to Tuesday, February 25th. One of the most popular times to visit New Orleans is the extended weekend BEFORE Mardi Gras when you can catch parades such as Endymion, Bacchus, (two of the biggest parades of the season) Zulu and Rex – in addition to other festive celebrations throughout New Orleans. 

Here’s an otherworldly costume and headdress you’ll love and many more like it at Mardi Gras in New Orleans

NOW, WE’RE GOING TO SWITCH GEARS and give you links to Rathbone blogs that have appeared in the past. This is a succinct, fast way to get information about where to eat and what to see when you are in New Orleans for Mardi Gras. 

#5

CLICK HERE to read our blog titled, “New Orleans: More Than the French Quarter.  

#6

CLICK HERE for our take on the cemeteries in New Orleans.

#7

If you’re thinking about signing up for a Swamp Tour here’s everything you need to know so CLICK HERE.

#8

Now, here’s one of our blogs that covers everything from picking up a po’boy to eating a beignet or dining in style. CLICK HERE to get a fast overview.

It’s all here – now have some fun!!

Shaun Nelson-Henrick

Nitty-gritty Things About NOLA

The first location that springs to mind when one talks about New Orleans is the French Quarter – which is great because everyone who visits wants to go there. Aside from being one of the most beautiful examples of preserved architecture in America, it’s also home to many of the city’s great restaurants, bars and music venues. This means that many tourists never leave the Quarter. That’s a little upsetting because there are many aspects of life in New Orleans that exist outside the French Quarter.

This month I intend to write several blogs for visitors to Mardi Gras that will include ideas and tips about what to expect during this festive time. Some of this info is pretty basic BUT it’s very nice to have an overall impression of a city before you arrive – then you can just concentrate on having fun.

When was the last time you were on a streetcar? Here’s your big chance!

FIRST: LET’S TALK “MONEY”

• The sales tax in New Orleans is 9.45%. Hotels are subject to a tax that varies with the type of hotel.

You’ll shop till you drop in New Orleans. Trust me

• The standard tip for good service in a restaurant is 18% -- 20% for exceptional. For hotels, a dollar or two per bag is acceptable when assistance by a bellhop is involved.

• Taxis in New Orleans: Give a 10% tip or round up the fare.

• Bars may require cash. It’s surprising how many cash-only places exist in New Orleans. This includes Café De Monde – open 24 hours. The average check is under $10. Or Casamento’s, a family-run uptown oyster bar that closes in the summer.

• “No credit cards” are also the rule at Guy’s Po-boys at 5259 Magazine Street and a dive bar named “Chart Room” in the middle of the French Quarter. This joint doesn’t have a website or do social media and says, “If you don’t like it, leave.” Finally, the music club “Spotted Cat” on Frenchmen Street has the same “no cards ever,” edict but since business is booming it doesn’t seem to bother anyone.

SECOND: MANNERS GO A LONG WAY

Folks in New Orleans tend to be casual, but good manners go a long way – as is the case in much of the South. For example, it’s considered bad form to just dive into the business at hand in The Big Easy. When one meets-and-greets – ask how they’re doing and be prepared to chat. It may be small talk or a life story that you hear within minutes of meeting for the first time. Just take it all in stride.  

THIRD: THE ALL-IMPORTANT WEATHER

Relax! The best time to visit New Orleans is from February to May when the weather is comfortably cool and the celebrations are in full swing. Yes, it rains! So bring an umbrella – it’s no big deal!

Now, here’s what’s ahead: for the last two blogs in January I’ve planned in-depth information on: (1) Looking at the French Quarter, (2) Taking tours in New Orleans’ cemeteries, (3) Signing up for swamp tours, (4) Deciding where to eat fast, (5) Thinking where to eat slow, (6) Listening to music, (7) Going on day trips and (8) Exploring the French Market. 

There’s lots of fun stuff to look at and buy in Jackson Square

I promise: by January 31st you’ll be all set for your first trip to The Crescent City.

Shaun Nelson-Henrick     

New Orleans Versus Atlanta

Atlanta, Georgia and New Orleans, Louisiana are only 400-plus miles apart.  Both places are great cities to visit and have a good time. In the past I’ve been to both and my overall impression was this: they had lots of wonderful things to see and do but Atlanta was a bit more reserved than New Orleans. Let’s take a look and get an overall picture.

Baton Rouge is the state capitol of Louisiana: the building has 34 storeys and is both the tallest structure in Baton Rouge and the tallest capitol in the U.S.

• Both were similar in size until Hurricane Katrina hit New Orleans in 2005. After that disaster, the population fell by more than 50%.

• Atlanta is now the fifth most populous city in the “Sun Belt” – thanks to the growth of its suburbs. Its population in 2017 was 486,290 while The Big Easy came in at 393,292 that year.

• New Orleans was once the commercial center of the American South, but Atlanta is richer today. However, the suburbs of Atlanta are less affluent than its inner city which is unlike the rest of the country.

• Atlanta has more recent arrivals than New Orleans. And, although NOLA is famous for its multilingual heritage, few people speak anything other than English.

• The population in New Orleans is 59.8% black and 34.1% white while in Atlanta it’s 52.29% black and 40.08% white.

Georgia’s state capitol in Atlanta was built in 1889. It had its dome covered with gold leaf in 1958. They used 20 ounces for this project – that’s over $30,000 in today’s money

• Atlanta is the capital of Georgia and is situated among the foothills of the Appalachian Mountains. New Orleans is a port city that allows access to the Mississippi River. It was built above sea level, but over time it’s been sinking.

• Atlanta is known for its sports teams (the Braves, Falcons and Hawks, to name a few) and its Hartsfield-Jackson International Airport or “the world’s busiest passenger airport” – having seen it many times I really believe this.

• New Orleans is known for its different nicknames: The Big Easy, The City That Care Forgot, the Crescent City – however a recent study says its “America’s Most Sinful City” while Provo, Utah is the nation’s most saintly city.

• Atlanta is known as the birthplace of the civil rights movement. Many visit the Martin Luther King, Jr. National Historic Site to learn about this Nobel Peace Prize winner’s childhood and too-short life.

• New Orleans is best known as “the birthplace of jazz’ and for its food, music and its famous Mardi Gras festival that’s been held since 1699 when French explorers Pierre Le Moyne d’Iberville and Sieur de Bienville landed near present-day New Orleans.

• In Atlanta, 49% of the population has a college degree whereas in New Orleans its 35% -- the U.S. average is 32%.

• Home-grown Atlanta cuisine includes any dishes with: boiled peanuts, any relish/sauce with Vidalia onions, pulled pork and Brunswick stew, pimento cheese, fried chicken and waffles, chicken with dumplings and sweet potato pie.

• Traditional New Orleans dishes include: gumbo, crawfish etouffee, jambalaya, red beans and rice, beignets, New Orleans king cakes, pralines and BBQ shrimp.

So there you have it. Whether you’re in Atlanta or New Orleans you’ll feast like a king.

COMMENT: If you’re interested in how Atlanta is charging ahead in the tech world get a copy of Fast Company, September 2019 and read an article titled “Atlanta Rising.” You’ll be amazed at what you’ll read about “The Black Mecca.”

Shaun Nelson-Henrick

Country Music: An Eight-Part Series

For this blog I think I’ll quote from the September 2019 program guide for Channel 13 that I received in the mail. I enjoy this PBS station (Public Broadcasting Service) and support it with a monthly donation. In September an eight-part documentary series titled Country Music created by the celebrated filmmaker, Ken Burns was presented with great fanfare – and it was terrific. Take a look at the highlights of this exceptional series.

IT FEATURED INTERVIEWS with more than 80 country music artists – that alone is a mind-numbing statistic. The film follows the evolution of country music over the course of the 20th century. It also spotlights the trailblazers who created and shaped it: the Carter Family, Hank Williams, Patsy Cline, Johnny Cash, Loretta Lynn, Charley Pride, Willie Nelson, Dolly Parton, Garth Brooks and more. Personally, I really enjoyed the segment on Hank Williams who was dubbed “The Hillbilly Shakespeare” and wrote one hit song after another. He was awarded both a Grammy and a Pulitzer for his astounding talent. Williams was country music’s first superstar who tragically died at the age of 29.

Hank Willmans, the Hillbilly Shakespeare who is credited with writing 167 songs – including those where he is credited as co-author – a few of his biggest hits were: “I’m So Lonesome I Could Cry,” “Your Cheatin’ Heart” and “Lovesick Blues”

THE DIVERSITY OF COUNTRY MUSIC was one of the joys of making the series – according to Burns. “It’s intertwined with other American music genres such as jazz and roll ‘n’ roll. It’s never been confined into one simple category. Like America, it’s too big for that.” The series traces the history of country music from the 1920s to the popularity of Hollywood’s singing cowboys during the Great Depression. Then it moves on to the rise of bluegrass and rockabilly before describing the emergence of Nashville into Music City USA and the impact of radio and TV on this art form.

A REFLECTION OF CHANGING TIMES began when Loretta Lynn struck a chord with female fans in the sixties. Then Charley Pride became the first country music superstar who was black and Bob Dylan found a recording home in Nashville as the Vietnam War raged. A vibrant new era in country music began with Dolly Parton and other artists who helped country music stay true to its roots as the genre skyrocketed to new heights.

Loretta Lynn is a singer-songwriter who grew up in Butcher Hollow, Kentucky, the second of eight children

THE STORY OF COUNTRY MUSIC is filled with fascinating people – many who rose from poverty – but dreamed big dreams. Through determination and talent they touched millions of people. When I was watching the series I was struck by how many of the big stars came from very modest backgrounds in rural areas. Johnny Cash, for example, was picking cotton when he was a child because everyone had to help feed the family.

BUT ONE CAME FROM MONEY and it was still a big struggle. I’ve always been fascinated with the story of Kris Kristofferson who has been described as “making things happen his entire life.” His father was an Air Force general and Kris was a college grad who became a Rhodes scholar, a captain in the US Army and a teacher at West Point. Then he suddenly decided to make a 360-degree change in his life and become a songwriter – which he did with “Sunday Morning Coming Down” that Johnny Cash recorded and was voted the 1970 Song of the Year by the Country Music Association.

American filmmaker Ken Burns was born in Brooklyn, New York and grew up in
Walpole, New Hampshire

Now, here’s where I’m heading. I’ve always heard that his parents (especially his mother) were very upset about his career choice. Kris mentioned it briefly a number of times. He also kept a letter for many years that she wrote regarding this issue. Lo and behold! In this Ken Burns series he reads the entire letter on-camera. And, it’s really vicious. She tells him not to return home. She writes that he’s a great embarrassment to the entire family because he’s no longer in the military world and is now friendly with people that his family would never associate with in real life. Since Kris is now 83 years old his mother is no longer around to hear this nastiness that will be beamed to the whole world.

This country superstar has been happily married for more than 50 years to Carl Dean, who keeps a low profile

DOLLY PARTON SUMS UP the entire subject of Country Music by saying, “You can dance to it, you can cry to it, make love to it, play it at a funeral – it has something for everyone.” We’ll second that one.

CLICK HERE to hear Hank Williams sing “I’m So Lonely I Could Cry.”

Shauneen Nelsen-Henrick

“Smells Great! What’s Cooking?”

I believe we’ve all heard that old adage, “We all travel on our stomachs.” And it’s true. Years later most of us can remember favorite restaurants and foods that we experienced for the first time when we visited faraway spots.

Why not visit the Southern Food & Beverage Museum?

Keeping this in mind, I’d like to suggest a visit to the SOUTHERN FOOD AND BEVERAGE MUSEUM when you visit New Orleans. It’s located at 1504 Oretha Castle Haley Boulevard in our fair city and, if learning about a particular dish interests you, then a cooking class is just the ticket.

The museum offers three classes that focus on Creole, Cajun and Creole Italian cuisine. You’ll learn how to make favorites such as jambalaya, gumbo and bananas foster. HERE’S WHAT YOU’LL GET: A tour of the museum, copies of the recipes and a cocktail book or custom spice mix are included with the purchase of a ticket. Classes are offered Mondays and Thursdays at 11 a.m.

Now let’s dig a little deeper and take a closer look at some of the dishes that you’ll find in the South. I’ve purposely picked things that I’ve read about over the years but, for some reason, I’m not exactly sure what they are.

“SHOOFLY PIE SOUNDS GOOD, BUT THAT ‘FLY’ BIT GETS ME”

Shoofly Pie is sweet, sticky and delicious – it shouldn’t be too perfect – cracking, breaking and crumbling is much more fun

Not to worry. Sweet potato, pecan, peach and shoofly are favorite desserts for a traditional Southern meal. Delicious, old-fashioned shoofly pie is made with a molasses filling and a crumbly brown sugar topping. This explains the name. At times, the sweet, sticky molasses would form on top while the pie was cooling and attract flies. 

“I’VE HEARD THAT ‘POKE SALLET’ CAN KILL YOU. TRUE?”

Poke Sallet – finished cooking and ready to eat – add butter, a little lemon and pepper

This is a leafy green that grows as a weed. In the South, it’s been foraged and eaten as a vegetable for many, many years. But here’s the catch: it’s rumored to be poisonous. Not true: it has to be washed first and then boiled. One throws out this water and boils it again – some people do this four times. In the video I watched it looked like a delicious bowl of spinach the lady was eating.

“WHAT EXACTLY ARE ‘CHITLINS’ AND WHY ARE THEY EATEN?”

Chitlins can be deep-fried with vinegar and hot sauce – then served with collard greens and cornbread

There’s not a lot of beef in Southern cooking because “the pig” is king and chitlins are their intestines. Chitlins are started in boiling water, then simmered with onions, salt, garlic and red pepper. After 3-4 hours one serves them with spaghetti or turnip greens.

“IS IT TRUE THAT ‘BURGOO’ IS POPULAR IN KENTUCKY?”

How do you burgoo? Kentucky cooks say “everything from venison and rabbit to butter beans and chopped cabbage – and a splash of whiskey.” Others say, “squirrel, dove, squab, lamb – the meat and veggies should melt into each other – this means at least four hours on the stove.”

Yep, Burgoo is a spicy stew that’s a cousin of Brunswick stew (popular in Georgia and Virginia). It’s made with pork, beef, chicken, corn, carrots, celery, etc. and is a Kentucky Derby favorite (along with all that imbibing of booze). Said differently, if it walks, crawls or flies it goes in burgoo.

“WHY IS ‘CHESS PIE’ IN THE SOUTH CALLED A MAKE-DO PIE?”

Because it’s fast and presumably what Mama would make if she had nothing else – it’s simply eggs, butter and sugar. This results in a custard-like filling similar to the British lemon curd.

“HUSHPUPPIES ARE POPULAR DOWN SOUTH. AM I RIGHT?”

You are 100% right. A hushpuppy is a savory deep-fried round ball (made from a cornmeal-based batter) that is served as a side dish. Corn is the ultimate staple in the American diet – especially in Southern food. Cornbread, grits, hushpuppies and bourbon all exemplify the use of corn in the South. Any good crab boil has ears of corn thrown in to absorb all the spices and serve as a sweet part of the flavor experience.

So there you have it – I trust that you’ve read something new here.

Shaun Nelson-Henrick

Looking Ahead to January 2020

New Orleans has always been known for its music so let’s start this blog by taking a look at its street musicians. One of my favorite groups is a nine-piece band named Tuba Skinny. They play classic jazz and blues riffs on Royal Street in the French Quarter every Monday and Friday.  CLICK HERE to hear Donde Estas Corazon.

ONE – THE FAMOUS PRESERVATION HALL

Once-in-a-lifetime experience: go to 726 St. Peter Street and see these talented musicians perform

I’d heard about this place for years so I really wanted to go and enjoy a performance there. Unfortunately, when Peter and I visited New Orleans we put off doing this until we were almost ready to leave the city. This is when I learned that one doesn’t just “pop in” to see a show.

IMPORTANT:  Purchase “Big Shot” Reserved Seats in Advance

Preservation Hall can be found in the heart of the French Quarter in a building that dates back to 1803. It was established 58 years ago to honor one of this country’s truest art forms: traditional New Orleans jazz. Buying reserved seats ahead of time is the only way to go. A general admission, cash-only ticket can result in a long wait. The room itself only holds 100 people. There is no food allowed (one can bring in a drink) plus no phones or cameras during the one-hour performance. Concerts are held over 350 nights a year. Plan to go and have a great time.

TWO – PALM COURT JAZZ CAFÉ IS A CLASSY SUPPER CLUB

The Palm Court Jazz Café and its brick wall of photos

You can’t go wrong here if you’re a jazz fan. The Palm Court is located at 1204 Decatur Street in an old French Market warehouse that brings back the casual elegance of yesteryear New Orleans with a mahogany bar, tiled floor and a Steinway grand piano. A wide variety of Creole and continental dishes are offered. CDs and records are available plus there’s an interesting collection of photos from the world of music displayed on the old brick walls.

THREE – HOUSE OF BLUES HAS VOODOO-THEMED MURALS

A soulful brunch at the House of Blues

When I saw this my first thought was, “Oh no, not a chain! Who needs that?” Well, even though the House of Blues at 225 Decatur can be found at 12 locations in the U.S. (the first one opened at Harvard Square in 1992) they have put a lot of effort into making their NOLA version authentic. For example, they feature a Southern-inspired menu. It’s also a great place for Happy Hour where specialty drinks and food are offered in a lively bar and stage area. You’ll have a great time – that’s a promise!

FOUR – BALCONY MUSIC CLUB: IT’S ALL UNDER ONE ROOF

Here’s where you can hear New Orleans Jazz, Southern Rock, Pop, R&B, Blues and Brass bands in the same place. It’s located at 1331 Decatur at the foot of Frenchmen and offers live music seven days a week. There’s no cover and, according to one visitor, “The drinks are better priced than elsewhere in The Quarter. Best of all, you can smoke on the back patio.”  

FIVE – ONE EYED JACKS HAS MUSIC, COMEDY & BURLESQUE

I swear on a Bible that I was laughing the whole time I was researching and writing about this hilarious joint. First of all, it’s named after the 1961 Marlon Brando film. It can be found at 615 Toulouse Street and is described as a bar that feels like a 19th century bordello. That’s a good start but it’s the show put on by the Fleur de Tease (love the name) burlesque group that’s a big hit with both sexes.

There’s a semi-regular show every other Sunday night. One very satisfied customer writes, “We attended on a Wednesday night and saw Vixens and Vinyl – I can’t remember when I last had so much fun.” Another reports, “We thoroughly enjoyed the Fleur de Tease production of the Wizard of Oz. It was very funny and had just enough burlesque.” (Keep in mind: these ladies have professional dance backgrounds and perform all over New Orleans.) Why not go for it!!! CLICK HERE to hear my all-time favorite street group called Loose Marbles play “Wabash Blues.”

Shaun Nelson-Henrick

An Actress With Southern Roots

When I received my copy in the mail of one of my favorite magazines titled, The Fall Style Issue – Southern Living I immediately sat down and flipped through it for a fast “first look.” What caught my eye at once was an interview with Oscar winner and author, Octavia Spencer who was born and raised in Alabama. Now, I’ve done over 500 interviews in the U.S. and India via phone, Skype and in-person but I have NEVER talked to anyone with these credentials. I was intrigued and noticed that the author of this piece, Allison Glock, had done a masterful job. Hence, my decision to break down this fascinating interview from four pages to 600-plus words for a Rathbone blog. Here goes:

Actress Octavia Spencer has appeared in The Witches with Anne Hathaway, plus a high-profile Netflix series about Madame C. J. Walker, who was the first African-American self-made millionaire. She will also be appearing in a Netflix comedy called Thunder Force with her friend Melissa McCarthy.

Q: Tell us about your childhood. You lost your father when you were very young.

A: We had nothing but we had a very strong mother who had a great work ethic. I was the sixth of seven children.

Q: How did your mother set an example for you and your siblings?

A: She had mouths to feed so she took on jobs to make sure we had everything that we needed.

Q: Do you enjoy cooking and entertaining?

A: No. I’m the entertained. I come over and bring a covered dish or a bagged salad.

Q: What would you say is the most Southern thing about you?

A: My faith. It’s the guiding force in my life. It keeps me grounded. The Golden Rule is my foundation.

Q: How much was church a part of your upbringing?

A: We didn’t have a car, so we only went to church on Sundays. The services were long but there was always some sort of eats afterward. You better feed people if you keep them there all day!

Q: So you headed into the church basement to dig into those casseroles?

A: Exactly. But now that I’m older I realize that our strongest bonds are made over meals.

Q: Do you ever find yourself defending the South?

A: I’ve learned to let people draw their own conclusions. But I hate it when people attribute all of these things ONLY to the South. It’s going on all over our country.

Q: Is there a film or TV show that gets the South right?

A: I can’t say. But I can tell you when the accents are wrong. I cringe at a terrible Southern accent.

Q: You also write mystery books for kids.

A: I grew up dyslexic so I read mysteries constantly to keep from falling behind. That’s when I fell in love with them.

Q: When did you realize that you had dyslexia?

A: Very early on but I had really supportive teachers. My homeroom teacher in the eighth grade, Miss Holly was a favorite.

Q: In your latest movie, Luce, you play a teacher, Harriet Wilson who is not exactly uplifting.

A: That was a really challenging part. Had there been a Harriet in my childhood, I would have languished rather than flourished.

Q: You actively option books and scripts that reflect diversity and voices that aren’t heard enough in Hollywood.

A: I’ve always wanted to create more opportunities for others through my production company.

Q: When you reflect on your life, what makes you the proudest?

A: I’m proud of the fact that I have the loveliest people in my family and friends – we don’t take our relationships for granted.

Q: Are you optimistic about what the future holds?

A: I’m not an optimist – I’m a realist. I see things exactly as they are. It’s not all terrible, but we still have a long way to go.

Shaun Nelson-Henrick

Cheers! Xmas at NOLA

So you’re coming to The Big Easy in December to celebrate December 25th and maybe New Year’s. Welcome! We’re very hospitable and welcoming here. So, in the spirit of the season, I’ve come up with seven spots that you may want to visit while you’re in NOLA. In other words, I’ve done the heavy lifting so you can have lots of fun – fair enough!

“HEY, I’M IN THE MOOD FOR A COUPLE OF BEERS.”

Taking it easy at the Avenue Pub in The Big Easy

Great! Take a look at the Avenue Pub that’s on 1732 St. Charles Avenue and has been described as “a neighborhood dive bar that – from the outside – doesn’t look like anything special.” Well, you know that old adage that we kick around from time-to-time, “Don’t judge a book by its cover.” This two-story beer bar has more than 40 beers on tap + even more in bottles and a very appetizing menu, e.g., Toast Aux Champignons, a classic dish that’s popular in Belgium. Best of all, you can watch the world go by from an upstairs patio.

“I LIKE TO DRINK BEER, EAT OYSTERS AND SHOOT POOL.”

We’ve got just the ticket: Cooter Browns Tavern and Oyster Bar at 509 S. Carrollton Avenue is just sitting there waiting for you! It attracts a great mix of college kids, eccentric characters and swells from uptown. You can drop in for brews (84 on tap) and freshly shucked oysters. Then shoot a little pool or watch sports on TV. No wonder locals love this place.

“NO BEER FOR ME. I’M INTO ROCK ‘EM, SOCK ‘EM COCKTAILS.”

You got it. Why not head over to Tonique at 820 N. Rampart Street and spend time at a bartender’s bar. This gem mixes some of the best drinks in New Orleans. You’ll agree when you imbibe their Moscow Mule or Frenchmen’s Dark & Stormy (the name alone sells this drink).

“A FREE BUFFET DINNER ON MONDAY NIGHTS? NO WAY!”

Chill out on Mondays at Twelve Mile Limit – start the week right

Yep, we said the same thing so we double-checked and it’s true. You’ll find Twelve Mile Limit at 500 S. Telemachus Street. It’s staffed with very skilled people behind the bar and in the kitchen. Here’s a drink to try: The Great Idea is a house-made ginger-beer concoction you’ll love! The menu offers pulled pork and the traditional French doberge cake. This is a win-win.

“I WANT TO GO TO ONE OF THOSE OLD HISTORICAL BARS.”

You’ll love the Napolean House that‘s hanging in at 500 Chartres Street in the French Quarter. The place looks as if it hasn’t had a dab of paint since it opened in 1797. (When we say, “hanging in” we mean it.) The author Walker Percy, who wrote books set in New Orleans, called this “vital decay” – with emphasis on the word “decay.” Try the grilled alligator sausage.

“LEAD ME TO THE OLDEST OPERATING BAR IN AMERICA.”

Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop is a spooky joint you’ll love

No problem. That’s Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop at 941 Bourbon Street. It is suggested that this place was once the workshop of Jean Lafitte and his brother Pierre. True or not, it dates back to the 18th century. At night it’s lit with candles and lanterns. There are also T-shirts and caps one can buy.

“HEADING FOR THE END! ABSINTHE WAS OUTLAWED IN 1914.”

Anywhere else on the planet – Old Absinthe House would be called “a dump” – in NOLA it’s a “much-loved dump”

Really! Yep, but not to worry because at Old Absinthe House located at 240 Bourbon Street they have a locally produced anisette – a safe stand-in for the old absinthe-based drinks. This bar has three balconies for perfect viewing during Mardi Gras. Why not think about reserving a spot to watch this madness while staying with us at Rathbone? We’re a 20-minute-walk away!

Shaun Nelson-Henrick   

New Year’s Eve in NOLA

We’ll talk about greeting 2020 a little later. Right now I’m going to offer more ideas about spending Christmas in New Orleans and, as before, include things one can do for FREE. Everyone loves freebies – I’ll bet that even Jeff Bezos, the billionaire owner of Amazon loves it when he’s given a freebie gift bag at an event. That said it’s time to buckle down and give you lots of info. And don’t forget: take a gander at last week’s blog, too.

THE “KREWE OF JINGLE CHRISTMAS” PARADE

The Krewe of Jingle Christmas Parade takes place in Downtown New Orleans

Everyone loves a parade and they’re always FREE! New Orleans is famous for them – especially this official holiday parade that takes place in Downtown New Orleans and rolls along Canal Street. You’ll see and cheer holiday floats, marching bands, stilt walkers and many Christmas characters such as the city’s Mr. Bingle. Enjoy this on Saturday, 12/7/19 at 1:00 pm.

THE ST. LOUIS HOLIDAY CONCERTS

On Jackson Square in the heart of the French Quarter, the historic St. Louis Cathedral plays host to an annual tradition of staging FREE concerts by New Orleans musicians, church choirs and singers in the jazz, classical, gospel and pop genres. These concerts are open to everyone and usually run for an hour: from 6:00 pm to 7:00 pm. CLICK HERE for a look at the schedule that starts on December 2nd. In recent years there have been as many as 15 concerts from early December to just before Christmas. CLICK HERE to hear Y’a Du Train Dans La Maison.

HANUKKAH IN NEW ORLEANS


Living in New York I believe it’s only fair to mention Hanukkah and how it is celebrated in New Orleans -- which has one of the oldest Jewish communities in the New World and where Jewish life is thriving. Hanukkah 2019 begins in the evening of Sunday, December 22nd and ends in the evening of Monday, December 30th. You’ll find concerts and other events that are hosted by Chabad, Touro Synagogue and the Jewish Federation of Greater New Orleans.

THE “HOLIDAY HOME TOUR” IN THE GARDEN DISTRICT

When I read about the 44th annual Garden District Home Tour that takes place on Saturday, December 14th and Sunday, December 15th my interest really shot up. This event is a fundraiser for the Preservation Resource Center of New Orleans. It offers outsiders a rare glimpse into some of the Garden District’s most beautiful private homes (I have been attending the Kips Bay Boys & Girls Club events here in New York for years – and they’re all great). Day-of-tour tickets: $50. Hours for the home tour are:

10 am to 4 pm.  

A HOLIDAY FOOT TOUR OF THE FRENCH QUARTER

This is a FREE walking tour where you can learn about the history of Christmas in New Orleans. It focuses on the holiday traditions of NOLA and the origins of the Carnival Season while taking you on a stroll through the French Quarter. CLICK HERE to learn more.

THE “NEW YEAR FOR KIDS” IN NEW ORLEANS

Zoo Year’s Eve for children at the Audubon Zoo located at 6500 Magazine Street in New Orleans

Surprised? I told you we like children! On December 31st you can take your kids to the Audubon Zoo (located at 6500 Magazine Street) so they can count down to 2020 during the day (this event is known as Zoo Year’s Eve). Then call the babysitter and head downtown to see how NOLA grown-ups ring in the New Year.” Hours for the youngsters on Tuesday 12/31/19 are 10 am to 12:30 pm.

NEW YEAR’S EVE IN THE FRENCH QUARTER

It’s not the ball dropping in Times Square but it’s still a lot of fun. Now, don’t be alarmed when you read that – in New Orleans a baby is dropped instead of a ball – because it’s not the real thing. The FQ baby looks like the tiny babies that are hidden in King Cakes. After the countdown to 2020 there will be fireworks over the Mississippi River and lots of partying.

JANUARY 6TH MARKS THE KICKOFF TO CARNIVAL IN NEW ORLEANS.  CLICK HERE to hear The Mardi Gras Mambo.

Shaun Nelson-Henrick

The Holidays in New Orleans

Can you believe another year has gone by? Once Thanksgiving is over and the last turkey leg has disappeared it seems that life speeds up even more. Just so you know: Thanksgiving is on Thursday, November 28th so it’s time to get cracking and think about spending Christmas in New Orleans and Rathbone Mansions this year.

HOW’S NOLA WEATHER IN DECEMBER?

Well, it’s winter of course, but certainly not like winters in New York or Boston. December weather in New Orleans can best be described as “mild” compared to other cities. The average high is 64° F (18° C) while the average low is 48° F (9° C).

OK, WHAT SHOULD I WEAR IN NOLA?

A warm jacket or coat should do it – but no parkas with faux fur or snow boots. Focus on layering: long-sleeve sweaters along with wool scarves, hats and gloves. And don’t forget: one must dress up a bit for an outing at a posh bar or restaurant. For example, Commander’s Palace (no ripped jeans) and Antoine’s have dress codes, so be aware.

WHAT’S ONE OF THE GREATEST SIGHTS?

I would say that “Celebration in the Oaks” is one of New Orleans’ best.

CLICK HERE to read what I wrote about this spectacular creation last year.

This blog also has a link to the Carousel in City Park and its Flying Horses with real horsehair tails. Your kids will thank you for taking them to these fun spots. This year is the 33rd anniversary of Celebration in the Oaks. It runs from Friday, November 29th (the day after Thanksgiving) to Wednesday, January 1, 2020 (the day after New Years).

ARE THERE ANY FREE THINGS TO DO OR SEE?

The spectacular Luna Fête (stands for “Light Up NOLA Arts”) and is presented by the Arts Council of New Orleans on 12/12 to 12/15/19 from 6 to 10 pm at Lafayette Square

Absolutely. One of our most unique festivals is named LUNA Fête (which stands for “Light Up NOLA Arts”). This is FREE and open to one and all. This year it will be held from Thursday, December 12th to Sunday, December 15th with nightly projections that will create a visionary wonderland in downtown New Orleans. Its ultimate aim is to highlight art in New Orleans through new and exciting video mapping technology.

Another FREE Xmas display that will set your eyes popping is the winter wonderland that appears in the Roosevelt Hotel lobby every year. CLICK HERE to see our write-up and a fantastic photo of this dazzling display of Christmas cheer.

Folks caroling in Jackson Square – 700 Decatur Street on December 22nd at 7 pm – it’s a lot of fun

Finally, here’s another FREE event the whole family can enjoy. On Sunday, December 22nd everyone will gather at Jackson Square for an old-fashioned, heartwarming sing-along of favorite Christmas carols. Don’t worry about knowing all the words: song sheets and candles are given out to those who want to blast away. This event has been around since 1946 so it’s a much-loved tradition. It starts at 7:00 pm and is VERY popular. I’ll say this again: it draws hundreds! Come early! You’ll have the best time ever!

MY KIDS ARE VERY ACTIVE – ANYTHING FOR THEM?

Nola Christmas Fest at 900 Convention Center Blvd – a wintery wonderland with an ice skating rink (bring your own skates or rent)

Of course! We love kids and they love us. We have an indoor festival that will be held from Friday, December 20th to Tuesday, December 31st. It’s held at the Convention Center and will offer an ice rink for skating, a carousel, and an ice slide --- this should wear out the little devils! The tickets for this event (called NOLA ChristmasFest) are $20 on weekdays and $25 on weekends.

I’ve got pages of notes on things to do in New Orleans at Christmas and I can’t stand not using all my hard work so I’ll be back next week with more ideas. Truth to tell: I wasn’t going to make this a two-part deal but I plan to roll with it. Waste not. Want not.

CLICK HERE to hear the Mormon Tabernacle Choir sing Silent Night.

Shaun Nelson-Henrick