The Beat Goes On With J’Ouvert
Let’s take one last look at where and how Mardi Gras is celebrated on planet earth. Rio de Janeiro hosts the biggest bash in the world and has been putting on a lavish, five-day festival of parades, music and dancing since 1723. Venice, Italy is known for its elaborate masquerade balls that feature gorgeous masks, black tie for men and long gowns in rich fabrics for the ladies. New Orleans goes over-the-top with two weeks of street parades that include spectacular floats, costumes, masks and ends with black-tie balls full of music and merriment. Nice, France honors its Carnaval de Nice by enjoying the spectacular “Festival of Flowers” – an age-old tradition and floral extravaganza that Henri Matisse painted in 1923. Trinidad and Tobago are two islands at the epicenter of Mardi Gras in the Caribbean where Calypso and Soca are the most popular forms of music played during Mardi Gras. This leads us to a description of J’Ouvert an early morning street party held in several Caribbean islands.
A BRIEF LOOK AT “J’OUVERT”
The color red really pops at J’Ouvert, a French word for “day opens” or “daybreak”
As far as I can remember, the first time I heard the word “J’Ouvert” was in 2015 when Carey Gabay, a lawyer, was shot in crossfire at the event in Brooklyn. In the Caribbean, celebrations open with J’Ouvert, which is the French word for “day opens” or “daybreak” – an annual sunrise festival to mark the emancipation of Trinidadian slaves in 1838.
J’Ouvert evolved from festivals held in the 1800’s where the landowners dressed up and imitated their “garden slaves.” And then guess what happened? The newly freed slaves took over and began imitating their former masters – as they had appeared in their “fun” roles as garden slaves. When tables are turned I think it’s pretty cool.
J’Ouvert – this is the day when people let their hair down and celebrate life
The traditions of J’Ouvert vary widely throughout the Caribbean. In Trinidad, Tobago and Grenada, a part of the tradition involves smearing paint, mud or oil on the bodies of the participants. (In Brooklyn the celebrants use white powder.)
J’Ouvert revelers cover their bodies in paint or oil – many wear helmets with giant horns
This year, the event in Brooklyn will be celebrated on Monday, September 7, as part of the West Indian American Day Parade and Carnival. Celebrants will be waving flags from Jamaica, Trinidad, Barbados, Grenada and other Caribbean islands.
I became fascinated with this topic when I received my April, 2020 issue of AFAR magazine and came across some of the most arresting photographs I’ve ever seen in my life.
St. Kitts-born photographer Wayne Lawrence noticed that the customs he’s grown up with were disappearing so he decided to try and preserve them by traveling among Trinidad, Tobago, Grenada, St. Kitts and Anguilla during their J’Ouvert celebrations. I find them remarkable – I believe you will, too.
In Grenada, they use more African drums during J’Ouvert – all photos of this celebratory event are courtesy of AFAR magazine’s April 2020 issue
LOOKING AHEAD IN NEW ORLEANS
CLICK HERE to read our take on “The Satchmo Summer Fest” in 2019 – this year the event takes place from Friday, July 31st to Sunday, August 2nd at the New Orleans Jazz Museum at the Mint.
CLICK HERE for a look back at the Essence Music Fest that will start on Wednesday July 1st and end on Monday, July 6th in 2020.
*UPDATE: Due to COVID-19, these festivals have been canceled for 2020. Follow our blog for updates on upcoming events.
Shaun Nelson-Henrick