A Must-Visit Restaurant
One of my favorite publications is Southern Living – it never disappoints! Each issue of the magazine seems to offer a topic that is totally new to me. In December 2019 an interview with JoAnn Clevenger, the owner of the Upperline restaurant in New Orleans caught my eye at once.
All photos are courtesy of Southern Living magazine
After I read the article I decided to check out the Upperline on the web and was astounded to see the number of awards it had won in recent years. Namely, they are: (A) Finalist for the James Beard Award in 2014, 2017 and 2018. (B) Semi-finalist in 2010, 2015 and 2016. (C) Restaurant of the Year by the Times Picayune Nola.com (it has been around since January 25, 1837).
The restaurant is located at 1413 Upperline Street in an 1877 townhouse that showcases fascinating art and memorabilia. It’s only 15 minutes from the French Quarter and features classic New Orleans dishes and newer versions of Creole cuisine. The restaurant opens for dinner at 5:30 pm from Wednesday through Sunday.
The dining rooms at Upperline feel more like a home than a restaurant. Or, as Clevenger says, “To me, the most important thing about New Orleans is that people who are different from each other rub shoulders. The neighborhoods are mixed up with a big house here and a little house there – right next to it.”
She curates Upperline’s art collection in a similarly egalitarian way. Hundreds of paintings cover the walls, line the bar and perch over tables. In the corner of the front dining room there’s a rendering of New Orleans Saints quarterback Drew Brees, as the Krewe of Bacchus, Mardi Gras king. Clevenger made sure the artist came back to add the Super Bowl ring!
Amazingly, her grandparents were sharecroppers in Alexandria, Louisiana. “My first little job ever was when I was about five years old. I picked up pecans for my grandpa,” she says. She carried a dried bamboo pole around the grove and nudged the tree branches to shake the shells loose. “Not too hard though – I didn’t want the green ones to fall.” Talk about acquiring the American Dream – this is a classic example – or as she says, “I believe in a puritanical work ethic and have no plans to retire.” She turns 81 in May of this year and is still going strong.
JoAnn Clevenger, the owner of Upperline in New Orleans
Every day she wears the same Parisian crimson-and-black tunic with the practicality of farmer’s overalls or the feed-sack dresses of her childhood. (There are eight replicas of her tunic hanging in her closet.) Affixed to the collar of her uniform is her gold Girl Scout pin, which she says is a reminder to be strong, brave, patient and kind.” (Some things never leave one – as a Girl Scout myself, I still use the knots I learned. Hats off to this marvelous organization that’s been around for 108 years!)
Clevenger estimates that she’s talked to over a million guests at their tables over the years and notes, “When you go into CVS or Walmart, no one looks at you. You’re alone. Here, the server looks at you. The people at your table look at you. You see the expressions on their faces if you tell a joke. And, if someone at the next table asks what you had, you smile and say, ‘it was rack of lamb’ – it’s a very intimate setting – you’re not anonymous.” Nicely said – now take a look at a marvelous Upperline offering.
Taste of New Orleans Dinner $48
** Sample Menu **2
Tasting Portions of 7 Creole Favorites Served In 3 Courses
Gumbo Turtle Soup Duck Etouffee
Fried Green Tomato with Shrimp Remoulade
Spicy Shrimp with Cornbread
Slow Roasted Quarter Duckling with choice of Sauce
Choice of dessert from list below
UPDATE: This restaurant may be closed due to the current situation that we all find ourselves in these days. But make a note for the future – and come pay a visit to Upperline.
Shaun Nelson-Henrick