The Glory Days and Beyond

Very often I find myself using words that are familiar but, if questioned as to their meaning, I really don’t have a tried-and-true answer. This applies to the adjective, “antebellum” – so here goes: Officially, the word antebellum can describe the time just before any war, but it’s usually used in reference to America’s “Civil War” – and comes from the Latin phrase “ante bellum, literally “before the war.”

THE ANTEBELLUM PERIOD IN NEW ORLEANS

This period is considered to be after the War of 1812 (when Louisiana entered the Union as the 18th state) and ends just before the Civil War in 1861 when it joined the Confederacy. 

In the antebellum era, cotton emerged as the South’s major commercial crop, eclipsing tobacco, rice and sugar in economic importance. This in turn, led to the establishment of large plantations that had hundreds of slaves. Full disclosure: When my husband Peter and I were in Curacao (an island in the Dutch Caribbean) we viewed a typical plantation from a short distance away. It consisted of the owner’s palatial home high on a hill with the tiny, dirt-floor slave homes down below. To me, they didn’t look fit for a dog to live in, let alone a family. 

MOVING INTO THE CIVIL WAR, 1861-1865

It’s interesting to look at women’s fashions during this period. For example, the ideal waist size was 15 inches (remember the famous scene in Gone With the Wind when Scarlett is getting her corset laced up by Mammy).

Traditional Victorian hoop skirts were embellished with ribbons and bows

Hoop skirts were considered the height of fashion. In fact, formal gowns could use up to 25 yards of fabric. (Scarlett just tore down the green velvet draperies in Tara so Mammy could make a dress to impress Rhett).

During the day, the dresses that females wore were high-necked. It was unseemly for one to show skin before the late afternoon. Moreover, pale skin was the style, so necks and shoulders had to be covered. It also meant that parasols were carried everywhere.

A fabric umbrella called “a parasol” was used for protection from the sun

White was a popular color in warm weather. Black was worn often due to the high death rate during the Civil War years. Again, rebellious Scarlett thought she was too young to be a widow. But, peer pressure reigned so she wore a black mourning dress to a charity ball in Atlanta. The dashing Rhett won the right to dance with her in front of a horrified crowd. (I love this movie!)

The South has hot, humid summers so handheld fans were a popular accessory for females. These could be simple paddle fans made of palmetto leaves or six-to-10” folding fans adorned with colorful designs.

TAKING A PEEK AT UNDERWEAR

The only way to approach this is to say: MANY LAYERS. The first was a soft cotton or linen chemise worn with drawstring drawers trimmed in lace or ribbon and ending just below the knee.

Then came the whalebone corset laced in the back to accentuate a small waist, followed by many petticoats, a crinoline or crinoline cage hoop skirt to create a bell-shaped skirt. Speaking of petticoats I can’t help but mention the scene where Mammy says, “Lawd, Mist’ Rhett, dat ain’ nuthin’ but mah red silk petticoat!” That’s both a touching and hilarious moment in the movie.

The Civil War years are long gone but it’s still fun to take a look back and see how much things have changed.

CLICK HERE To hear “Tara’s Theme” from Gone With the Wind.

Shaun Nelson-Henrick

Florida's Historic St. Petersburg

I read recently that there are 16 states in the US that are considered “Southern” so I decided to see how many I’ve covered for Rathbone. The count comes in at six: Louisiana, Florida, Texas, Kentucky, Georgia and South Carolina (a few are still on the launch pad).

That means I have 10 to go. Have I visited all sixteen Southern states? No, I haven’t but I’ve visited enough of them to realize they have a number of things in common. The folks in the South know how to have a good time, serve great food and are open and friendly. In short: c’mon down. Just hop in your car or get on a plane and give yourself + family/friends a real treat.

Historic, colorful St. Petersburg offers great sightseeing

In Florida, my husband and I visited Orlando, Key Biscayne, Coconut Grove, Miami, Islamorada and Key West – one of my all-time favorite spots on the planet.

For this blog I’d like to take a look at Florida’s historic St. Petersburg because I came across a fascinating article about it titled “The Jewel of the Coast” in the February 2019 issue of Southern Living (a mag that I highly recommend for fun and informative reading).

The author of this piece, Jennifer Chappell Smith begins by saying, “Once a sleepy coastal city, St. Pete has been reinvigorated by lots of Gen-Xers and millennials who have relocated there. One resident who is in love with St. Pete says, ”We have a downtown where one can stroll plus funky old buildings and access to the arts, parks and recreation areas. Best of all, we still have front porch neighborhoods where people say ‘hello’ and stop for a chat.”

WHERE IS THE BOOM LOCATED?

According to locals it’s centered along Beach Drive (facing the bay) and Central Avenue – lined with bars, boutiques and galleries. In fact, St. Petersburg has such a commitment to art and arts education that a gallery owner and multimedia artist Chad Mize designed a T-shirt that names this city as one of the world’s cultural hubs. It reads: Paris, London, Tokyo, St. Pete (New Yorkers will howl when they read this). “Originally, it was tongue-in-cheek, but we actually are kind of in that league,” says Mize, who has sold more than 60,000 items with his World Tour design. “We are definitely an arts city in terms of culture and desirability.”

Like Central Avenue, Beach Drive has done its part to spur the city’s renaissance. The Museum of Fine Arts that anchors the thoroughfare celebrated its 50th Anniversary in 2015.

SUNKEN GARDENS DOWNTOWN

The Sunken Gardens in St. Petersburg, Florida

Only a few blocks away you’ll find the Sunken Gardens in the middle of downtown. It offers a maze of paths through towering palms, pink bougainvillea and manicured gardens.

Last, but not least, is the Dali Museum that overlooks the marina and invites visitors to climb an elegant spiral stairway to view masterworks on the third floor or to enjoy sky views through an undulating window.  

The Spanish artist, Salvador Dali is known for his striking and bizarre images in his surrealist work. He is perhaps best known for his 1931 painting titled “The Persistence of Memory” that showed melting clocks in a landscape setting. The outspoken Dali was also widely quoted, for example: “Have no fear of perfection – you’ll never reach it.”

Bet you’ve never seen this before! A “melting clock” bench at the Dali museum

I’d say that a melting clock should feel right at home with an undulating window. Wouldn’t you?

A THOUGHT: St. Petersburg, Florida is only a 10-hour-or-so trip to New Orleans by car following the I-10 W route. Do drop by for a stay at the Rathbone Mansions. And, by the way, NOLA puts on a spectacular July Fourth celebration – come see – you’ll love it!

Shaun Nelson-Henrick

Summer in the South

Can you believe it? Another summer is here and this means the Essence Music Festival is revving up again. It has been held in New Orleans since 1994. That is, except for 2006, when it was held in Houston, Texas due to Hurricane Katrina – an event that none of us will ever forget. 

The Essence Festival is America’s biggest celebration of black culture

DATES FOR THE ESSENCE FEST IN JULY

This year it will be held from Thursday, July 4th until Sunday, July 7th at the Mercedes-Benz Superdome located in the Central Business District on Sugar Bowl Drive in New Orleans, Louisiana. The Superdome is a domed sports and exhibition facility that has hosted Super Bowls, major concerts and festivals of all kinds. The roof can be opened or closed in roughly 12 minutes at the push of a button.

Last year the Essence festival was a great success – and you can expect even more of everything this year. This event is America’s biggest annual celebration of Black culture. It focuses on music, film, fashion, TV, beauty, politics, community activism and much more. Attendees can enjoy a star-studded lineup of R&R, hip-hop, jazz and blues performances during the July 4th weekend.

The sponsor of this festival is Essence magazine that began in May 1970 and was described as “a lifestyle magazine directed to upscale African American women.” The first issue hit the stands with a circulation of 50,000. Currently, it is well over one million.

THE MID-SUMMER “MARDI GRAS” IN AUGUST

Here we go again! “Did we hear, ‘A Mardi Gras’ celebration in the last weekend of August?” Sure, why not?

The Krewe of OAK (Outrageous and Kinky) holds their mini-Mardi Gras every year around the last weekend in August. (A very good time to do this because September is always quite sensible with vacations done and over, back-to-school, etc.) The party kicks off at the Maple Leaf Bar which is located at 8316 Oak Street. This bar is a must-see nighttime destination in the Riverbend area because of its juke joint vibe that New Orleans visitors and residents love. It even has a small dance floor directly in front of the stage where one can work up a sweat (and yes, live New Orleans-type music is on board). There’s also a welcoming back patio where one can relax with a drink. And guess what? You can smoke on the back patio or in front of The Maple Leaf itself.   

SOUTHERN DECADENCE 2019 IN NEW ORLEANS

This six-day Labor Day Weekend annual event bills itself as “The Gay Mardi Gras” and will be held this year from Thursday, August 29th through Monday, September 2nd.

Looking back, we’re happy to report that 2018 broke all records, with over 250,000 gay and lesbian plus bisexual and transgender participants, and an economic impact estimated to be in excess of $275 million.

End your summer with the time of your life – in The City That Never Sleeps

The French Quarter is packed for the entire event but the big day is Sunday, September 1st when the Grand Marshals lead the annual walking parade through the streets. THIS BEGINS AT 2:00 PM.

Most street party activities take place close to the French Quarter and the GAY BARS NEVER CLOSE so there’s something happening around the clock.

Weather in July and August in NOLA: a high of 92 degrees, a low of 76 degrees, 13 days of rain in July; 11 days of rain in August. Hurricane season is June to November while peak travel is February to May.

TAKE NOTE: The two stately, antebellum Rathbone Mansions on Esplanade Avenue are SIX MINUTES away from the French Quarter if you’re looking for great place to stay.

Shaun Nelson-Henrick

Whoopee! It's July 4th

We want you to pay attention and read this blog carefully. Why? This is a fun holiday that everyone can enjoy so we’ve gone out on a limb and found lots of things for you to see, do and eat – plus where to go in NOLA to watch a great fireworks display – but first, let’s have a short history lesson.

JOHN ADAMS, PRESIDENT OF THE U.S. IN 1776

On July 4th, the 13 colonies claimed their independence from England (an event that led to the formation of the United States). The day before, John Adams, the second president of this country, was so excited by what was about to happen that he wrote a letter to his wife, Abigail saying, “Tomorrow is the signing of the Declaration of Independence – it should be celebrated with pomp, parades, sports, guns, bells, bonfires and illuminations (aka fireworks) from one end of the continent to the other.”

That was 243 years ago. Today, July 4th is more relevant than ever – especially the fireworks – which were created by the Chinese eons ago. Exactly “when” is hard to say because many different dates are given, but it’s somewhere between the seventh and ninth centuries.

“DUELING BARGES” FIREWORKS WITH MUSIC

Dueling Barges Fireworks Show on the Fourth

On Thursday, July 4th the fireworks display in NOLA will start at 9 p.m. It is not JUST ONE SHOW, BUT TWO at the same time – in the form of dueling barges on the Mississippi River. Both barges present a mind-blowing display of fireworks together. And every year, Magic 101.9 or WWLAM 870 or FM 105.3 syncs patriotic music to the fireworks, so be sure to bring a radio and tune in.

During the day, you can spend time with friends and family. Or, you can visit Riverwalk where food and drink stands will be set up.

TREAT YOURSELF AND GUESTS TO A PICNIC

Everyone loves to eat outdoors so here is a link to “50+ Easy Picnic Food Ideas for the Fourth of July” that was put together by Woman’s Day magazine. I fully intended to include a couple of recipes but, I couldn’t make up my mind which ones to pick – everything looked so delicious.

Their selections include: Chimichurri (often billed as “Argentine barbecue sauce”) Potato Salad; Glazed Pork and Apple Kebabs; Mediterranean Pita Pizza; Key Lime Pie (in a jar; no cutting slices); Lemony Pasta Salad; Beet and Feta Dip; Veggie Wraps With Goat Cheese and much more. CLICK HERE TO SEE FOR YOURSELF.

BEST PLACES TO WATCH THE FIREWORKS

CRESCENT PARK: Bywater Park offers a stellar view of the fireworks. On the Fourth it is open from 5:30 p.m. to 10 p.m. with food trucks and beverages for all. The park does not allow “outside” FOOD OR DRINKS but chairs are welcome.

WOLDENBERG RIVERFRONT PARK: This is a front-and-center seat for the “Go Fourth on the River” celebration. Be sure to arrive well before 9 p.m. to get a spot.

ALGIERS POINT: This is usually a “less crowded” option than the other side of the river. Bonus: the downtown New Orleans skyline as a backdrop.

NEW ORLEANS CITY PARK: The Park hosts its “Happy 3rd of July” party with the Marine Corps Band on the Goldring/Woldenberg Great Lawn. Snoballs, wine and beer will be available for purchase or you can bring your own picnic goodies. Starts at 6:00 p.m. and ends at 9:30 p.m.

Music and fireworks at City Park

THE STEAMBOAT NATCHEZ and the CREOLE QUEEN PADDLEWHEELER both offer food, drinks and a great view of the fireworks. This will cost you – but you’ll end up loving it.  

Make a reservation now at the Rathbone Mansion for a July Fourth celebration you will never forget.

Shaun Nelson-Henrick

The French Market District

This is a must-see for you, your family and your friends. We’ll explore this historical site, but first let’s ask: What is it? Basically, it’s a series of commercial buildings that span six blocks in the French Quarter. That tells you right away it will be easy to find.

ONE OF THE MOST POPULAR SIGHTS

Visitors love to eat here because of the wide variety of food stands, restaurants and outdoor dining spots. You’ll find everything from the famous Café Du Monde with its delicious beignets and chicory coffee located just off Jackson Square to Irene’s Restaurant at 539 Saint Philip Street for Italian fare that one diner describes as “A fabulous find.” If you’re only in the mood for a sandwich then head for Central Grocery at 923 Decatur Street where you can order a savory muffuletta sandwich wrapped in butcher paper.

THE FARMERS MARKET PAVILION

Here’s where you’ll be able to come for breakfast/lunch/dinner. Or, you can make a point of coming on a Wednesday or Sunday where you’ll find a great array of fresh picked seasonal vegetables and exotic fruits. Take note: there’s even a Creole Tomato Festival every year in June for the spring harvest of the Creole tomato – a popular ingredient in tomato-based dishes that are unique to New Orleans.

LOCAL ARTISTS AND CRAFTSMEN

Now, let’s move away from the food scene and explore the ever-changing collection of 50 artisans that appear at the Farmers Market. Come and watch the skills involved for making pottery, designing jewelry or other crafts. And remember: these artists are Southerners, so they’ll be quite willing to share their stories and experiences in the Big Easy.

THE FLEA MARKET AND TOURS

The Flea Market is exactly as it sounds: an open-air strip of vendors displaying everything from T-shirts to jewelry and more. You never can tell what you’ll find.

Brothels. Bordellos. Ladies of the Night Walking Tours

Now, let’s make a big switch and discuss a tour that one can take in the French Market. When I was doing the research for this blog I came across this tour by accident. It’s called “Brothels.  Bordellos. Ladies of the Night Walking Tours.” – and describes the tour as one “that focuses on some of the hidden history of the French Quarter.” The tour starts at the Mississippi river and ends two hours later at “Back of Town.” Frankly, I think it sounds like a hoot. 

HOW TO GET TO THE MARKET

The French Market is within walking distance of any location in the French Quarter. You can take the St. Charles streetcar from Uptown or the Canal St. streetcar from Mid-City and get off at Canal and Carondelet Street – then walk a few blocks down to the Mississippi. There are also many paid parking spaces along St. Peters Street that are within a block of Jackson Square.

A LANDMARK YOU MIGHT LIKE

DUTCH ALLEY was named for Mayor Ernest “Dutch” Morial. This corner of the French Market features public art, the New Orleans Jazz National Historic Park as well as SCENIC WALKWAYS that lead to the Mississippi riverfront, the Riverfront streetcar line and the French Market parking lot. 

Shaun Nelson-Henrick

The Satchmo Summer Fest

Have you ever wondered where the name “Satchmo” came from? Well, here’s your answer. When Louis Armstrong was a boy he sang on the street corners of New Orleans to earn money. Many youngsters earned spare change this way. In those days, no one had phonographs and radios had yet to be invented, so folks enjoyed the music.

Armstrong’s wide mouth and big grin inspired two nicknames: Dippermouth and Satchelmouth. Dippermouth stayed with him through his early years in music but Satchelmouth (shortened to SATCHMO by other musicians) stayed with him for a lifetime.

THE EARLY YEARS

He was born on August 4, 1901, in New Orleans, Louisiana, in a section so poor it was nicknamed “The Battlefield.” Storyville was the well-known “red light” district but Battlefield had plenty of crime and chaos, too.

When he was in the fifth grade he had to quit school to support his family by delivering coal for Morris Karnofsky, a Jewish businessman. He would work for him off and on for many years. Between the morning and evening shifts, Karnofsky would invite him to eat with his family. In later years, Armstrong wore a Jewish star around his neck in memory of his good friend.

AT THE AGE OF ELEVEN

The Colored Waifs Home for Boys

Poor Satchmo was a young black kid who got into trouble so he was sent to “The Colored Waifs Home for Boys” (a dreadful name if there ever was one). But the 18 months he spent in this reform school turned out to be the best thing that ever happened to him. He was introduced to music: first the tambourine, then the bugle, followed by the cornet and, finally his great love – the trumpet.

When he was 18 years old he quit his coal delivery job and went full-time into being a freelance musician. He couldn’t afford a telephone so if someone wanted to hire him they called a neighborhood grocery store and left a message. He played on Mississippi riverboats until he was twenty. Then he had a job offer that was too good to turn down. He was on his way and hit his stride in the 1920s as an inventive trumpet and cornet player. His gravelly voice also made him an influential “scat” singer (using sounds and syllables instead of lyrics). His career ended in the 1960s as a famed, popular and influential musician who left his imprint on the world of jazz.

Louis Armstrong with his mother and sister Beatrice in New Orleans in 1921.

SATCHMO SUMMER FEST

This event began as a tribute to one of New Orleans’ most famous native sons: the late Louis Armstrong – to celebrate his 100th birthday. Thousands of people turned out for the first one in 2001.

WHERE IT TAKES PLACE

The Old U.S. Mint began minting in 1838 in this stunning Greek Revival-style building

This festival takes place at the Old U.S. Mint Building at 498 Barracks Street, which is on the edge of the French Quarter between the French Market and Esplanade Avenue. Or, said differently, it is ONLY EIGHT MINUTES from the Rathbone Mansions at 1244 Esplanade Avenue.

DATES AND COST

The Satchmo Summer Fest is from Friday, August 2nd to Monday, August 5th and has a very reasonable Daily Admission of $5.00. This event is held on three stages at the U.S. Mint.

LISTEN, LOOK AND EAT

Come and experience live music that features traditional and contemporary jazz and brass bands. Or, take advantage of the seminars and discussions that feature a host of speakers. And don’t forget the food! No New Orleans party would be complete without our amazing Louisiana fare. You’ll find beer, wine, soft drinks as well as Softshell Crab Poboys, Crawfish Pie, Jamaican Chicken and Turkey Burgers. Trust me, you will definitely find something delicious to eat!

Shaun Nelson-Henrick  

NOLA Architecture: A Feast for the Eyes

I remember my first reaction when I saw the eclectic assortment of buildings and houses in New Orleans: I was absolutely stunned. At the time, I had never even heard of the description “shotgun houses.” And the balconies! Wow, each one was all fancied up with great-looking hanging plants! What a feast for the eyes!

AN OVERVIEW OF THE CITY

There are 158 sites in Orleans Parish listed on the National Register of Historic Places. (There are 64 parishes in Louisiana. A parish is the equivalent of a county in other American states.) I picked up info about the architecture in New Orleans from Lonely Planet because they’ve pulled it all together.

Overall, there is more to the architecture in New Orleans than the French Quarter and the Garden District. Plus, one must remember that, for all of the city’s preservation credentials, the fact remains that fire, rot, hurricanes and redevelopment have all taken their toll on the city’s historical building stock. Roughly only 25 buildings have survived intact from the French and Spanish takeovers.

A SPECTACULAR FRENCH COLONIAL (1718-1761)   

Home of James Pitot, who was first mayor of incorporated City of New Orleans

The Pitot House on Bayou St. John is a French Colonial structure that sports a huge second-floor wraparound balcony that served as a living space in the summer. Furniture would be moved outdoors (even beds) to cope with the sweltering heat.

A TIGHT FIT FOR SPANISH COLONIAL (1762-1803)

During the Spanish period adjacent buildings were designed with NO SPACES between – this created the continuous façade of the French Quarter. The home of this period was the two-story townhouse with commercial space on the ground floor. There was usually an open area behind the house that converted into a private courtyard. Arches, tiled roofs, and balconies with ornate wrought-iron railings were in fashion.

BALCONIES IN THE FRENCH QUARTER

A classic example of Creole architecture

Creole townhouses make up most of the residential and commercial stock in the French Quarter where their most distinctive element is “the wrought-iron balcony.” In fact, residents spent so much time on their balconies that dividers had to be built between those that adjoined. In some spots one may see “Romeo Spikes” – wickedly sharp points meant to prevent potential suitors from shimmying up a balcony pole to a waiting lady love.

THE SINGLE FAMILY SHOTGUN

In the latter half of the 19th century shotgun houses became very popular. (So called because a bullet could be fired from front to back through the open doorways.) There is no hall. One passes through each room to walk through the house.

GREEK REVIVAL: A SIGN OF WEALTH

No style symbolizes the wealth of the mid-19th century than this one – with its tall columns inspired by the Parthenon. Now found along St. Charles Avenue and in the Garden District.

TWO-STORY HOUSES: FOR SPACE

A center hall house on Esplanade Avenue

Double gallery houses were built between 1820 and 1850 on Esplanade Ridge and the Garden District. They were set back from the property line and featured a two-story gallery or porch, framed and supported by columns.

Shaun Nelson-Henrick 

Southern Hospitality

Back in the day, the states known as “Southern” referred to territory below the Mason-Dixon line – a boundary beginning in southern New Jersey and extending west.

That changed during the Civil War when “The South” referred to states that seceded or withdrew from the Union and formed the Confederacy. Later on the U.S. Census Bureau defined the U.S. Southern region as these 16 states: THE SOUTH ATLANTIC: Delaware, Florida, Georgia, Maryland, North Carolina, South Carolina, Virginia and West Virginia; THE EAST SOUTH CENTRAL: Alabama, Kentucky, Mississippi and Tennessee; THE WEST SOUTH CENTRAL: Arkansas, Louisiana, Oklahoma and Texas.

FOOD TOPS THE LIST

Hospitality definitely calls for food. A cake or other delicacy is often brought to the door of a new neighbor while many club and church functions include a meal or, at least, dessert and coffee. Many houses of worship in the South have large commercial-style kitchens for cooking. There are also “fellowship suppers” where many bring a “covered dish” for all to share. And, of course, when a death or serious illness occurs, neighbors, friends and church members bring food to the bereaved family for a time.

Every Southern woman knows how to whip up a warm peach cobbler or a classic (and decadent) Hummingbird Cake. For the recipe and mouth-watering photos CLICK HERE.

POLITENESS SCORES HIGH

For born-and-bred Southerners good manners are extremely important. Most children learn these magic words: “Yes, ma’am,” “No, sir,” “Please” and “Thank You” at a young age with the goal that they’ll remember them as adults. And, because folks in the South love company their mindset is “What’s the hurry!” Conversations are never rushed. Guests are treated like family in the South. As the saying goes, “There are no strangers, just friends we haven’t met yet.”

What some deem as charming is just the natural Southern way of being kind, witty and considerate to people one encounters – whether it’s at the post office, grocery store or church.

SOUTHERNERS AND POTLUCKS

Sometimes when I read certain things about the South I feel as if I’m living in a different country. So I’m making a concerted effort to learn as much as possible. Take a look at our potluck must-haves:

Take note: five platters of deviled eggs on this table.

DEVILED EGGS

Southerners feel that no potluck is complete without them. I have never had deviled eggs in my entire life so I’d better get moving. By the way, the classic definition of potluck is “a meal in which each guest brings a dish.” I always bring wine. Do I get Brownie points for that?

POUND CAKE WITH PEACH ICE CREAM

Nothing could be easier. For dessert, buy a Publix pound cake and a carton of Blue Bell. I’ve never come across these names. It seems that Publix has over 1,000 stores in six Southern states and Blue Bell is the fourth biggest-selling ice cream in the U.S. – sold only in the South.

MACARONI SALAD

Cook macaroni until al dente – then drain. Chop up black olives, hard-boiled eggs, red onion, scallions and add black pepper. Bind everything together with Duke’s mayo. What’s that you say? The name has a lot of swagger but I’ve never seen it in this part of the country – meaning Manhattan. Here’s the scoop: Duke’s is the third-largest mayo in the U.S. (behind Hellmann’s and Kraft). It’s very popular in the South.

FRIED PIES

Another big winner that I don’t know about – a fried pie is shaped like a half-moon, crimped along the edge with fork tines and stuffed with a fruit filling that’s usually apple or peach.

PIMIENTO CHEESE

Yippee! I finally get an A grade. To read our blog about this Pâté of The South CLICK HERE.

FRIED CHICKEN

It’s Southern and you can get it at Publix. Okay, I’m a Northerner and I rarely eat fried but I do eat lots of chicken: broiled, roasted, stuffed, sliced – do I get points for this?

Shaun Nelson-Henrick

Three Southern Charmers

This is an invite to the denizens of two lovely Southern cities: Savannah and Charleston. We know that the lifestyle in both places is civilized and gracious. However, if you’re looking to spice things up a bit why not take a trip to The Big Easy.

The magic of Savannah as shown in this ad that appeared in AFAR magazine, May/June 2019

Savannah, Georgia is only a 641-mile drive to NOLA while Charleston, South Carolina is a 768-mile one. Coming by plane is 1 hr. and 36 minutes for Savannah and slightly longer for Charleston – so we expect to roll out the welcome mat for you any day now.

And, since we’ve extended this invitation we want our readers to know as much as possible about both of you. So here goes:

SAVANNAH: the oldest city in Georgia

This visual appeared in an ad promoting the charm of Savannah, Georgia – known for its live oak trees and antebellum architecture – courtesy of The Condé Nast Traveler, February 2019

I became very interested in this town after seeing the 1997 crime film, Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil that was based on John Berendt’s 1994 novel of the same name. I thought the movie, which is taken from an event that really happened, was terrific. Over the years I’ve probably watched it about eight times.

The story is gripping, but what really caught my eye were the shots of Savannah -- widely known for its quaint historic district, charming bed and breakfasts plus stately oak trees with Spanish moss cascading down. And guess what? Savannah allows Go Cups on its streets with a caveat: the drinks must be under 16 ounces. Another reason folks from Savannah will love NOLA!

What’s the story with food? Well, I happen to know that Fried Green Tomatoes are popular in both Savannah and New Orleans so you folks will feel right at home. (The movie Fried Green Tomatoes was shot in Juliette, Georgia or 180 miles from Savannah. It’s nice to keep everything in the family.)

CHARLESTON: known as The Holy City

A charming Charleston street scene pictured in one of their ads – courtesy of Southern Living, February 2019

I did a double take when I read that one. Apparently, this is its official nickname because of its tolerance for all religions and the number of historic churches that Charleston has for its citizens. But hold on: there’s a counter argument that says, “The Holy City has nothing to do with religion. But rather, any city that is worshipped by its inhabitants and envied by the rest of the world, would inevitably become known as The Holy City.”

Here’s another version of that – author unknown – that goes: “Dear Lord, look down on those in pity who dwell outside the Holy City.” I rest my case.

Aside from pedicabs and horse-drawn carriages, does Charleston and New Orleans have anything else in common? Certainly. It’s two words: food and drink – the more off-the-wall and exotic – the better.

Here’s a description I came across, on the web, of a Charleston star chef named Sean Brock. “He serves contemporary Southern fare (bacon-corn bread with pork butter) – the bar can craft a bourbon cocktail such as ‘Turcotte’s Tipple’ with grapefruit shrub, pamplemouse and pink saltwater.”

I don’t have the slightest idea what any of this means EXCEPT that if this chef visits New Orleans he’ll feel right at home.

DISCLAIMER: This blog is full of wacky facts and figures for which I take no responsibility. Blame the web.

Shaun Nelson-Henrick

Go on a Ghost Tour

I think we’re all intrigued by the idea of ghosts – it’s a topic that gets everyone’s attention – from the junior set all the way up to lively seniors. 

Jean Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop has a long haunted history. It is reputed to be the oldest structure used as a bar in the US.

It’s often said that New Orleans is the most haunted city in America – plus it’s a place where the dead refuse to rest. Why? It’s very simple: there’s no solid ground to hold them. New Orleans is famous for its voodoo queens and vampires, witches and ghosts of every description. It has also been the location and backdrop for spooky films and TV shows. You shouldn’t leave The Big Easy without a visit to its eerie sites with their grisly histories.

So what’s the best way to do this? I think signing up for a tour is your best bet. Of course, you could go by yourself or with a pal. But if you’re on a dark, deserted street and suddenly feel a chill in the air and an invisible hand on your back – don’t say I didn’t warn you. There’s bravery in numbers!

When I was researching this piece I was amazed at how many options there are. Briefly, you can go on a tour during the day or at night (my preference if I ever took one) plus there are variations on where to visit, e.g., the St. Germaine House and the LaLaurie Mansion, which for 150 years, has been considered the most haunted and frightening house in the Vieux Carré.  

Marie Laveau

Or you can visit the St. Louis Cemetery No. 1 and view the final resting place of Marie Laveau, the famous Voodoo Queen of New Orleans. To see our take on New Orleans cemeteries CLICK HERE.  

Most tours go two hours (or slightly less) and involve a fair amount of walking. However, there is one tour that involves riding in a bus that goes beyond the French Quarter to quieter, less-visited neighborhoods. It even includes a quick stop at a coffee shop named “Morning Call” for beignets and coffee.

As far as drinking goes there are a number of options: One tour states, “Your guide allows time for you to purchase drinks at bars along the way” – don’t worry about finishing your drink – you’re in “GO CUP COUNTRY.” To read about the  idiosyncrasies of New Orleans CLICK HERE.

One thing that all the tours seem to have in common is this: the leaders take their jobs seriously. Each one seems to be very well versed in the myths and lore of ghosts in New Orleans and they are quite willing to give as much info as possible with a dash of humor and goodwill. Here’s a small sampling of comments by participants.

•   “We really enjoyed our tour. It was on a very hot day in mid-August but the guide made a real effort to keep us in the shade as much as possible.”

•   “This was a great group tour. Our guide was absolutely delightful! She shared a wealth of information about the town she loves to call home. We stopped for drinks at a local bar and it was a great experience.”

•   “Be aware that you will do a good bit of walking and there is no opportunity for a pit stop for an hour-and-a-half.”

•   “Fred was very well-informed. He even told us the history of some places that weren’t on the tour. It’s always a pleasure to be with a guide who is passionate about what he or she does.”

Shaun Nelson-Henrick

The Kentucky Derby

 I watch this famous race every year in May and have no logical reason why I do because: (1) I usually don’t know what horses are running (2) I don’t place bets on the outcome and (3) I pick my favorites based on their names. In other words, I pick horse winners the same way I choose paint colors – if it sounds great, it must be. Yeah, right. I once repainted a mirror frame four times. Obviously, this theory of mine doesn’t work – so let’s move on.

IT’S AN OVER-THE-TOP SPECTACLE

The Kentucky Derby started in 1875 and is the longest running sporting event in the United States. It is known for offering “the most exciting two minutes in sports” and has never missed a year – not even during The Great Depression (1929-39) or World War I (1914-18) and WW II (1939-45).  

There are few American sporting events with the history and popularity of the Derby. It has rich traditions: sipping a mint julep, donning a beautiful hat and joining fellow race fans singing “My Old Kentucky Home.” It is truly a celebration of Southern culture.  

THE DERBY IS ALWAYS HELD THE FIRST SATURDAY IN MAY

In the racing world, there is a fierce emphasis on the Triple Crown. This is the Holy Grail that takes place in three spots:

Louisville and Lexington are one hour and 16 minutes apart, if you drive nonstop on I-64E – the fastest route. This ad appeared in Condé Nast Traveler, March 2019

•   The Kentucky Derby at Churchill Downs in Louisville, Kentucky (run over a 1 1/4-mile dirt track) on May 4, 2019

•   The Preakness Stakes, (which is the Middle Jewel of the Triple Crown), a 1 3/16 mile track at Pimlico Race Course in Baltimore, Maryland on May 18, 2019

• And finally, the longest race, the Belmont Stakes at 1 1/2 miles in Elmont, New York on June 8, 2019 

WATCH A TERRIFIC MOVIE ABOUT ALL OF THE ABOVE

At the tail end of 2018 I accidently came across a very good film on TV titled “Secretariat” that chronicled the life of this remarkable racehorse, who won the Triple Crown in 1973 – the first winner in 25 years. The movie stars Oscar-nominated actress Diane Lane who portrays Secretariat’s owner, Penny Chenery and John Malkovich who plays his trainer, Lucien Laurin.

Chenery and Big Red, Triple Crown Winner 1973

Since the horse himself had few problems on the track, the film focuses on the difficulties Chenery had to deal with: she was a woman in a man’s world, a woman no one believed in. 

The film has a WOW ending that captures the true story of Secretariat perfectly: his Belmont run. It put his name in the history of racing forever. With only four competitors running against him, Secretariat was the favorite to take the 1 1/2-mile race. But no one expected him to blow away the field as much as he did. Secretariat opened up a lead on the backstretch and never looked back, leaving everyone else in the dust. He won the race by a total of 31 lengths in one of the most dominant athletic performances of the 20th century.

If you watch this race I guarantee you will be sitting or standing up with your mouth and eyes wide open – not able to say a word. Or, as his jockey, Ron Turcotte recalled in 1993, “Down the backstretch, with a half-mile to go, Secretariat was clearly giving me a rocket ride. Enemy hoof beats soon disappeared. They were too far behind for me to hear. What a race! What a memory!”

Secretariat crushed the competition: first by 10 lengths, then 20 and eventually 31 lengths – to become horse racing’s first Triple Crown winner since 1948. Later, Penny Chenery would have this to say about Secretariat and the Belmont race, “My gut feeling is that he was ready for that race. I just think he got out there and said to himself, ‘Okay, I feel good. I’m just going to show them how I can run.’”

CLICK HERE TO SEE “SECRETARIAT – THE LIFE & TIMES OF AN AMERICAN RACING LEGEND.

Make sure your sound is on + full screen

NOTE: It takes 10 hours (or 700 miles going south) to drive from Louisville, KY to New Orleans, LA. Of course, that’s nonstop. But even with food-and-fuel breaks it’s quite doable. We’d love to see you in May!

Shaun Nelson-Henrick

Louisiana Loves Its Gumbo

One of the best decisions I’ve made in recent months was to sign up for a subscription to the magazine Southern Living. I think it’s absolutely terrific. Why? Well, for one thing they love food and every issue has stories about Southern specialties plus mouth-watering recipes. For example, in the January 2019 issue they had a great article by Jennifer Justus titled The Super Bowl of Gumbo. Here are the highlights:

Smoked Turkey and Andouille Gumbo: Beau Beaullieu and Andy Soileau’s team has taken first place 11 times at this cook-off. They won in 2015, 2017 and 2018. Photo courtesy of Southern Living

AT 5 A.M. ON A WARM OCTOBER MORNING…

in South Louisiana, the sun had yet to lift over the Bayou Teche, but Kevin Sonnier and his teammates were ready to make a few hundred quarts of gumbo in the dark. They hauled in bags of Gold Medal flour, jugs of vegetable oil and packages of sausage and chicken. They strapped headlamps across their foreheads and allowed the “ROUX POLICE” to poke through their coolers with flashlights looking for contraband (premade roux).

AT 6 A.M., A SHOTGUN FIRED AND THE ACTION BEGAN…

at once – or, here comes the World Championship Gumbo Cook-off in New Iberia, Louisiana (146 miles by car from New Orleans). “We in cook mode now,” says Sonnier. Steam rose over cauldrons that dotted the downtown park while the scrapes of whisks and spoons against gumbo pots skittered across the silence.

Huge pots are used for the cook-off and “Yes” ladies enter this competition – photo courtesy of Southern Living

THE FESTIVAL BEGAN 30 YEARS AGO WITH 12 BOOTHS…

but now the count has blossomed to more than 80 (in all those years, they’ve missed only one festival due to a hurricane). Cooks can enter as amateurs or professionals, with the pros competing in SEAFOOD or NON-SEAFOOD categories. Amateurs can choose (a) seafood, (b) chicken + sausage and (c) mélange or mixture (a wild card that could be anything from duck to gator).

“I LEARNED FROM MY MAMA IN THE KITCHEN SO…

that’s why I don’t eat gumbo at a restaurant,” said teammate Jaime Gaither, who worked over another pot nearby. He flies helicopters into the Gulf of Mexico oil fields by day. By night – for the past three nights anyway – he has readied his stock with 10 lbs. of leg quarters, a hen and seasonings. “Everybody’s got a different idea and nobody’s wrong,” he said, spooning roux into stock.

WORKING OUTDOORS IN BATCHES MEANS MISHAPS…

can happen so at yet another booth, Nelson Boutte, a hospitality chef, burned his first batch of roux. “I’ll be worn out for sure,” he said, vigorously stirring a second batch. By 11 a.m., the park swarmed with locals sampling the deep, earthy flavors of gumbos while Cajun bands had dancers twirling under a pavilion.

Folks come from far and wide to sample this tasty event – photo courtesy of Southern Living

A FEW HOURS BEFORE THE TROPHY CEREMONY…

the finalist teams received signs to hang on their booths. A sign means bragging rights and signals to attendees where they might want to snag a sample. Boutte’s team earned a sign despite the rocky start. But Gaither’s guys didn’t get one, even after many wins in the past. “That’s part of it,” said the team leader with a smile and shrug.   

Nelson Boutte has the smile of a real winner – photo courtesy of Southern Living

BACK AT SONNIER’S TENT THERE’S A DISPLAY OF…

winning trophies from years past but there was no winner this year. “That’s okay,” Sonnier added. It was almost a perfect weekend. LSU won. The Astros won. The Saints won. But we didn’t – maybe next year.”

NOTE: As we said earlier, New Orleans is only 146 miles from New Iberia by car, following the I-10 route – that’s two hours and 45 minutes if you drive nonstop. Why not come for a visit and stay at the Rathbone Mansions?

Shaun Nelson-Henrick

Jazz Fest Celebrates Its 50th Anniversary

I’d like to say, “Kudos” to the 2019 New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival on this remarkable milestone that they plan to celebrate in style. For starters, the Festival is giving itself a special birthday present: an extra day added to each weekend. The 2019 Jazz Fest will expand to eight days at the Fair Grounds – starting with Thursday, April 25th. Both weekends of the festival will now run Thursday through Sunday: April 25-28 and May 2-5.

Ad courtesy of AFAR magazine, January/February 2019

The term “Jazz Fest” also refers to the days surrounding the festival and the many shows (at unaffiliated New Orleans nightclubs) that are scheduled during the festival weekends. And remember: it isn’t just about jazz. It’s jazz and heritage. This means “any music that jazz inspired” such as: blues, gospel, Afro-Caribbean, folk, country, zydeco, Cajun – you name it.

THE JAZZ FEST BEGAN WITH 350 ATTENDEES

The first festival, held in Louis Armstrong Park, featured legendary artists such as Duke Ellington, Mahalia Jackson and Fats Domino. Only 350 people attended the first Jazz Fest. But, the attendance numbers grew, so the Fest was moved to the larger Fair Grounds Race Course a year later. By the late seventies the festival had grown from one weekend to two. The Fair Grounds Race Course is a thoroughbred racetrack located at 1751 Gentilly Boulevard or 11 minutes, via Esplanade Avenue, from the French Quarter.

IT’S A FEAST OF MUSIC, FOOD AND CULTURE

It takes a well-bred racehorse about two minutes to complete a race at the Fair Grounds track – it will take you a little longer to make your way from one PERFORMANCE TENT to another because the festival is a big draw – and is expected to have even a larger turnout to celebrate this special anniversary year. There are a total of 12 tents – here is a pared-down sampling:

•   The Gospel Tent features earth-shaking gospel music

• The Economy Hall Tent offers New Orleans “trad” jazz with the likes of the Preservation Hall Jazz Band

• The Blues Tent will give you blues, R&B, funk and, periodically “rock”

• Fais-Do-Do Stage keeps things lively with Cajun and zydeco

• The Acura Stage is where the biggest names in music appear

• The Kids’ Tent comes through with music for children plus family-friendly activities

YOU’LL ABSOLUTELY LOVE THE FOOD

In addition to the obvious musical draw, Jazz Fest is famous for its food stalls. Some of the more popular Fest foods include:

• Fried soft shell crab

• Crawfish Monica (cream crawfish sauce over fusilli (pasta that is formed into a corkscrew), and

• Cochon de Lait which is aptly described as, “tender pork that melts in your mouth”

Have we convinced you to come to New Orleans for Jazz Fest? Then why not stay at the stately, antebellum Rathbone Mansion located at 1244 Esplanade Avenue? We are six minutes (yes, you read that correctly) from The Fair Grounds Track and two blocks from the northeast corner of the French Quarter. We offer a unique experience: no two rooms are alike plus you’ll find many superb eating and drinking spots close by.

Shaun Nelson-Henrick

Traveling Down the Mississippi

At the end of last year, I came across a fascinating piece in a copy of Lonely Planet dated “Winter 2018” (this was a magazine – I didn’t even know that such a thing existed). At any rate, it had an article in it with the title “Born by the River” by Kevin Perry. He recounts the road trip he took – on land – that FOLLOWED the Mississippi River.

DRIVING FROM MISSOURI TO NOLA

Starting in the town of Hannibal, Missouri and heading south for New Orleans, 800 miles away promised a great adventure and Perry did not disappoint.

He begins with an interview with Captain Clarke “Doc” Hawley, an 82-year-old riverboat pilot (now retired) who told him that “in order to be granted a license, I was required to draw the entire distance (from Cincinnati, Ohio to New Orleans) BY HAND, FROM MEMORY, five miles per page. And, not only did you have to know the shape of the river (the sandbars and the bridges) you had to draw what was UNDER the river as well. You had to know where NOT to drop an anchor because you could hook into an oil line.” Hawley spent 60 years on the mighty Mississippi. I am absolutely flabbergasted by this interview.

VISITING MARK TWAIN AND JOHNNY CASH

The Mark Twain Riverboat – photo courtesy of Lonely Planet

Hannibal is where Mark Twain, born Sam Clemens grew up and, nearly a century later, the river and the land around it inspired country music star Johnny Cash. Taking roads south from Hannibal, the author doesn’t stop until he reaches Dyess, Arkansas. It’s here that Johnny Cash grew up, picking cotton from the age of five.

CASH’S YOUNGEST SISTER, JOANNE EXPLAINS

The boyhood home of Johnny Cash in Dyess, Arkansas (population 370 in 2017) – now restored and located at 4791 W. County Road 924

Photo: Courtesy of Lonely Planet

Cash’s sibling remembers that “singing was always part of family life and the music came from the way we lived – lots of hard work, love and singing together every day. Johnny was always writing songs and singing the truth.”

In 1954, when Cash was ready to record his songs, he went to Sun Studios in Memphis, Tennessee, an hour’s drive downriver from Dyess. By then, the studio was already drawing in the greatest musical talent of the Mississippi Delta.

MEMPHIS STILL MOVES TO A BEAT

On Beale Street, the sounds of competing bands echo out of every bar. In the Blues City Café, the author listens to a performance by a musician named “Blind Mississippi Morris” who tells him that, “Poverty is what made the blues. It all started in the cotton fields. Before they were playing music they were singing it a cappella (with no instruments). You tell a story in your music and say what it feels like to wake up every day not knowing what you were going to eat.”

HEADING SOUTH THROUGH THE DELTA

A Second Line brass band parade – photo courtesy of Lonely Planet

Perry arrives in New Orleans and learns more about the legendary jazz funerals that the city made famous. They were so much fun people stopped waiting until someone died. The brass band parades known as the Second Line became a weekly tradition – and now they flow through the streets, as powerful and irresistible as the Mississippi itself.

WHEN YOU VISIT NEW ORLEANS BE SURE AND STAY AT THE RATHBONE MANSIONS FOR THE EXPERIENCE OF A LIFETIME

Shaun Nelson-Henrick

Tips for Your NOLA Visit

So you’ve decided to visit New Orleans this spring or summer. To help you get started we’re giving you a few tips. Granted, this is a “boiled down” list – but it will start you thinking about how to get here and what to expect after you arrive.

HOW TO GET TO NEW ORLEANS

You can come by plane, train, bus or drive your own car. The Louis Armstrong International Airport is 13 miles west of New Orleans. You can take a taxi or shuttle to get into the city itself. Amtrak and Greyhound are adjacent to each other downtown – a cab can take you to the French Quarter.

WHAT TO PACK FOR YOUR NOLA VISIT

It rains off-and-on here so pack some type of rain gear or a small, folding umbrella. Make sure you have comfortable walking shoes or sandals – New Orleans is like New York City, it’s a “walking town.” Bring a nice shirt or dress for a fun night out plus something a little offbeat, e.g., a hat. Finally, don’t forget to pack an official picture ID – the bouncers in New Orleans are fairly strict about proper identification. And, remember: some of the city’s nicer restaurants have a jackets-only policy for men, so call ahead if you’re not sure about the spot where you plan to dine.

HOW TO FIGURE OUT WHERE YOU ARE

In Manhattan, everyone knows that Fifth Avenue is the dividing line between east and west. Going north is towards Harlem and south is down to Wall Street – this is a no-brainer.

So New Orleans is east, west, north, south also – right? Nope. This city’s directions come from “bodies of water” – and how they flow. This means you’ll hear: lake, river, up and down.

§  “Lake” is Lake Pontchartrain, north of the city

§  “River” is the Mississippi

§  “Up and down” refer to the flow of the river, which heads “down” to the Gulf of Mexico

§  This means that “down” is east

§  And “up” means west – once you’re here you’ll figure it out fast  

OTHER ESSENTIALS YOU MIGHT WANT TO KNOW

#1 ATMs are widely available. Credit cards are accepted in all accommodations and many, but not all, restaurants

#2 Cell phones: Local SIM (also known as subscriber identity module) cards can be used in European and Australian phones. Other phones may be set to roaming

#3 Moving around once you’re here: You can go by STREETCAR and pay a one-way fare or spring for a multi-trip pass. BUS service is okay but WALKING is better – especially in the French Quarter. Riding a BICYCLE: You can cross the entire town in 45 minutes or CAR: the easiest way to access outer neighborhoods such as Mid-City

#4 Time: New Orleans Standard Time is six hours behind GMT (Greenwich Mean Time, the prime basis of Standard Time throughout the world) or 5:00 pm in NOLA, 11:00 pm in London. It’s one hour behind the East Coast or 5:00 pm in NOLA, 6:00 pm in Manhattan

#5 Smoking: The city has passed a law banning smoking in bars, restaurants, casinos and hotels. Smoking is still permitted in most outdoor gathering areas,  (patios, courtyards and balconies)

DON’T FORGET: The Tennessee Williams Literary Festival is an annual five-day literary event that will be held from March 27th to the 31st this year. It is dedicated to the Pulitzer prize-winning playwright who helped put New Orleans on the map with his stunning A Streetcar Named Desire.

Shaun Nelson-Henrick

Forever: A Louisiana Classic

I’ve always marveled at the longevity of some popular songs. Especially since some click with fans and some do not. It’s so elusive.

I remember reading a comment by Pete Seeger of the American folk band, The Weavers. He said that when their version of “Goodnight Irene” zoomed to the top of the Billboard Best Sellers chart they were absolutely stunned. They never expected it. This enormous success inspired many other artists, such as Frank Sinatra, to release versions of this song. CLICK HERE to hear it for yourself.

THE SOUTH IS A HOT BED OF MUSIC

“Goodnight Irene” was written by Leadbelly, an American folk/blues musician as well as a great songwriter from the south where country, soul, blues and rock ‘n’ roll have all found their spiritual homes. Cities such as Nashville, Jackson, Memphis, New Orleans, Knoxville and Chattanooga have all helped to shape the music scene in America.  

Dolly Parton, Jerry Lee Lewis, BB King, Muddy Waters and Roy Orbison can all be traced back to the bars, clubs and recording studios of the Deep South. And, of course, there’s Elvis Presley, the King of Rock & Roll and his Graceland estate. This will be with us forever.

A FAVORITE: THE “MIDNIGHT SPECIAL”

Huddie William Ledbetter, better known as Leadbelly was born in Mooringsport, Louisiana (late 1880s-12/6/49). He wrote the famous and very moving “Midnight Special” which is, hands down, one of my all-time favorites.  The song is about a steam locomotive train that passed the Louisiana state prison. The light from the train would shine into the prison cells. Over time, the prisoners began to believe that, if the “light of the train” shined on one of them – he would gain his freedom.

The song also tells the story of being locked up as a black man and how quick this could happen if you stepped out of line. The lyrics read: “If you’re ever in Houston, well, you better do right. You better not gamble, there, you better not fight, at all. Or the sheriff will grab ya and the boys will bring you down.  (And yes, Leadbelly spent time in prison.)

CREEDANCE CLEARWATER REVIVAL

The “Midnight Special” was first commercially recorded in the 1920s and then resurfaced globally when the Creedence Clearwater Revival group recorded it. They started as a garage band when they were teenagers, but after ten years together this California foursome was still struggling. Then, in 1970, they hit it big with a number of songs that included a reworking of Leadbelly’s “Midnight Special.”  Sadly, after their remarkable success, they could no longer work together and shut down completely two years later.

BUT THE “MIDNIGHT SPECIAL” LIVES ON

Now we’re up to 2018 and the release of a film featuring Lady Gaga and Bradley Cooper that we saw at the Kips Bay Theatre on Wednesday, October 17th. We loved every minute of it. Full disclosure: I think I also love the movie’s backstory, too. Cooper was casting “A Star Is Born” and he thought Lady Gaga would be great. He also thought his casting would only work if they could sing together (he had been taking vocal lessons for 18 months).

Lady Gaga asked him if he’d like to sing for her (let’s call it an audition) and he said he’d like to try “Midnight Special” so she started playing the piano – as he sang. Suddenly, she stopped playing and shouted, “Bradley, your voice is incredible. You have a real voice!”

CLICK HERE for my very favorite version of the “Midnight Special.”

UPDATE: In January 2019, Lady Gaga won a Golden Globe Award in the “Best Original Song” category. The song “Shallow” was written for the movie “A Star is Born.” Then she won her first Academy Award for this song at the 2019 Oscars in February.

IN ITS 33RD Y EAR: THE TENNESSEE WILLIAMS LITERARY FESTIVAL IS IN FULL SWING FROM MARCH 27 TO 31 – Be sure and take at look at 722 Toulouse Street where Williams once lived and wrote. 

Shaun Nelson-Henrick

The Ritual of Spring Break

The annual break in the U.S. college year varies from school-to-school but, overall, it begins as early as Saturday, March 2nd and ends as late as Sunday, March 31st.

During this free-from-studies period young men and women head for getaways where they can travel with friends and have a lot of fun in warmer weather while sunbathing, swimming, drinking, dancing and meeting new people. In my research for US Spring Break destinations, I came up with six destinations that sounded pretty good to me. Let’s have a look.

PANAMA CITY BEACH, FLORIDA

Apparently, this white-sand beach is quickly replacing Daytona Beach as the top Spring Break destination in Florida. I have never visited this fabled spot so I’ll take their word for it and say that, “it’s a great place for a break.”

LAS VEGAS, NEVADA

Yes, I totally agree, this is a terrific place to relax and enjoy oneself. I’ve been there a couple of times and can vouch for it. You can play the slots, see shows, walk down The Strip and take in the sights or just sit by the pool at your hotel and work on your tan. There are umpteen places for drinking and eating. You can also rent a car and tour Red Rock Canyon on a one-way 13-mile scenic drive or you can go out and view the gigantic Hoover Dam – a spectacular sight if there ever was one.   

MIAMI BEACH, FLORIDA

I’ve been through Miami Beach a couple of times but that’s it. Apparently it’s one of the hottest Spring Break destinations on the east coast. We found South Beach with its high concentration of Art Deco buildings really interesting. And, of course, you’ll find white-sand beaches that stretch for miles. There’s no shortage of places to sleep and eat, that’s for sure.

KEY WEST, FLORIDA

We visited Key West by driving down the 113-mile Overseas Highway in the Florida Keys. About halfway we stopped at Islamorada, a fisherman’s paradise, for lunch and watched as a fierce rainstorm whipped the palm trees – it was very dramatic. Key West itself is great. Just walking down Duval Street is an experience in itself.

SAN DIEGO, CALIFORNIA

I’ve been to the west coast a number of times but never visited San Diego. However, I understand that it’s a Spring Break favorite year-after-year with its cool, casual, laid-back atmosphere. I did spend time in Redondo Beach on a vacation with my family (it’s about two hours from San Diego) and it was terrific: hot sun with a white-sand beach and the Pacific crashing in.

HONOLULU, HAWAII

One of my all-time favorite spots in the entire world – my husband and I drove all over Oahu, then flew over to Kauai for a once-in-a-lifetime helicopter trip down the Nã Pali Coast on the north shore. Hawaii offers endless sunshine, many places to stay, excellent food, beautiful beaches – the list is endless. This is a perfect Spring Break choice.

THE $64,000 QUESTION: WHAT ABOUT NOLA?

No, you won’t find a white-sand beach but there’s plenty to see and do in charming, friendly New Orleans. If you stay at the Rathbone Mansions you’ll find a pool and a hot tub plus access to many fine restaurants, bars and clubs with music pouring out. Trust me, you can gamble in the casino, go on an airboat ride, visit a famous graveyard, cross the Mississippi in a ferry, tour a plantation -- the list is endless.

COME AND ENJOY THE BEST SPRING BREAK OF YOUR LIFE

Shaun Nelson-Henrick

March Celebrates the Irish

We’ve finally arrived at Mardi Gras Day which is Tuesday, March 5th or Fat Tuesday, the last day of the Carnival season. At this point I think I’ve written enough about Mardi Gras to last me a lifetime – but not really!

From mid-January and all through the month of February I wrote about the parades leading up to this annual event and the colorful history of Mardi Gras both in New Orleans and elsewhere. I’ve also dug up lots of info about where to drink, eat and have fun in New Orleans during your stay in The Crescent City. Be sure to check out all these blogs. Now we’re on to the month of March and new topics for the coming of spring and summer.

ST. PATRICK’S DAY IN NEW ORLEANS

Every year it’s more than a one-day celebration in New Orleans. Festivities span several days with parades, block parties and more. This year, St. Patrick’s is on Sunday, March 17th – but you’ll find the residents and visitors to this fair city celebrating with great gusto before the actual day.

WHY IS ST. PADDY’S A NATIONAL EVENT?

St. Patrick, who this holiday is named after, is credited with bringing Christianity to the Irish people. Legend has it that St. Patrick bravely banished all the snakes from Ireland with just his faith and a wooden staff.

In the 10th century, the Catholics began observing the feast day of St. Patrick’s on March 17th – the anniversary of his death five centuries earlier.

WHERE WAS THE FIRST ST. PATRICK’S PARADE?

Believe it or not, the first St. Patrick’s parade was in America, not Ireland. This parade took place on March 17, 1763 as Irish soldiers serving in the military marched through New York City celebrating, dancing and playing music.

WHEN WAS THE GREAT POTATO FAMINE?

It hit Ireland in 1845, causing nearly one million Irish to flock to America. As a result, the St. Paddy’s parades began to grow over the next few years. By 1848, Manhattan’s St. Patrick’s Day Parade became the official parade for St. Paddy’s and, today it’s the largest in the U.S. with more than 150,000 participants and nearly three million parade watchers.

WHERE ELSE IS ST. PATRICK’S CELEBRATED?

As of 2019, St. Patrick’s is celebrated in Boston, Chicago, Philadelphia and Savannah (in addition to New Orleans and New York). In 1962, Chicago started dying the Chicago River green as homage to this holiday – a tradition the still holds true today. It’s also celebrated in countries across the world, from Russia and Australia to Canada and Japan.

A QUICK OVERVIEW OF ST. PATRICK’S DAY

• Dealing With Leprechauns

These “little people of Ireland,” who come from Irish folklore, wear green because it makes them invisible. If you catch one you get three wishes

• Finding a Shamrock

This small plant with three leaves on each stem represents one part of the Holy Trinity: the Father, the Son and the Holy Spirit – they are not to be confused with the lucky four-leaf clover

•   Wearing Green Garb

We wear green on St. Patrick’s Day because of a leprechaun legend: it makes us invisible: meaning there’s no pinching. If one slips up and doesn’t wear green – you’ll get pinched

•   Eating Corned Beef

This St. Paddy’s dish was created as a cheap substitute for poor Irish American immigrants whose traditional favorite was bacon. It was very pricey in the US so they turned to corned beef to remind them of home. My opinion: I think corned beef and cabbage with boiled potatoes slathered in butter and a dash of pepper and salt is delicious.

•   Drinking Green Beer

Beer was the most affordable option for Irish American immigrants to celebrate their culture – the green additive didn’t happen until the 1950s – bartenders love it because it’s easy to make and even easier to drink. I think we’re dealing with some Irish malarkey here.

CLICK HERE TO LISTEN TO “OH DANNY BOY.”

Shaun Nelson-Henrick  

More French Quarter Dining Spots

Let’s start by taking a quick look at the French Quarter itself. It’s the oldest area of New Orleans (founded by the French in 1718) and is also known as the Vieux Carré – a term meaning “Old Square.” This name was first used in the 1890s when the Quarter began to evolve into a tourist destination.

If you think the famous French Quarter extends far and wide – you’re right. It includes all the land stretching along the Mississippi River from Canal Street to Esplanade Avenue or 13 blocks. Then it extends inland to North Rampart Street for a total area of 78 square blocks.

Of course, there’s much more to New Orleans than the French Quarter. In fact, there’s an overall description that’s perfect for everyone: THE BIG EASY. The first time I heard this I really didn’t know what it meant. Here’s a short history: In the early 1900s there was a NOLA dance hall called The Big Easy. Then in the early seventies a Louisiana newspaper reporter began calling her favorite city by this name as she compared the easy-going way of life in New Orleans to the hectic pace in New York City.

RESTAURANT R’EVOLUTION: IN THE ROYAL SONESTA HOTEL

 You can go into this restaurant via the “Royal Sonesta New Orleans” lobby (located at 300 Bourbon) or use the street entrance at 777 Bienville Street. This elegant 6,000 sq. ft. restaurant offers a fine dining experience in the French Quarter. Here’s your chance to try “A Tale of Three Fishes,” – or three seafood stews from three of the seven nations that settled Louisiana. This includes French bouillabaisse, (clams, lobster, fish in a broth) Spanish zarzuela (shrimp, mussels, scallops in white wine) and Tuscan cacciucco (octopus, calamari, red snapper over country-style bread) – served in three separate courses. If you’re in the mood for dessert you have to try the White Chocolate Bread Pudding Crème Brûlée – it’s delicious!

GREEN GODDESS: OFF CANAL BETWEEN ROYAL & CHARTRES

This restaurant is on Exchange Place: a famous pedestrian walkway or, said differently, a little alley steeped in history. It was once home to fencing masters who would go out to the Dueling Oaks in City Park to settle disputes. Yikes! I never expected to read anything like this. Not to worry. The Green Goddess is described as a “gem” with a menu that caters to both vegetarians and those who like to eat everything. The press grilled Gulf shrimp étouffée (shellfish over rice) received raves in reviews and so did the very friendly staff. You’ll find this restaurant at 307 Exchange. 

GW FINS RESTAURANT: BETWEEN BOURBON AND DAUPHINE 

One diner wrote, “This place is definitely worth a visit. The food is superb and the service is really efficient. Would return in a heart beat.” The menu offers lobster dumplings and crispy pork belly for hot appetizers. Then, for fun there are specialty cocktails such as: Pre-Prohibition (the years before 1919) Sazerac and another called “Pool Side” made with Sugar Island Coconut Rum (crafted in the Virgin Islands) and Amaretto. Let’s end with this thought from a recent visitor. She says, “If you’re expecting basic fried seafood, you’re in the wrong place – this spot is way ahead of other seafood restaurants.” You’ll find GW Fins at 808 Bienville Street.

Shaun Nelson-Henrick

Elegant Eating in the French Quarter

Mardi Gras Feb. 27th, 1900

Before we zero in on New Orleans, let’s take a more global view of Mardi Gras. The Big Easy was the first city in the United States to celebrate this traditional event. Currently, it’s a major holiday in many cities and countries around the world – with each celebrating in its own way.  For example, in Venice the locals celebrate by wearing traditional masks while in Rio, it’s a national holiday, with two million revelers every year.  But no matter where Mardi Gras takes place there’s lots of music, dancing, partying and feasting.

Which brings us to this: where to dine when you visit New Orleans during this festive season. To make things easy, we’ve decided to concentrate on restaurants in the French Quarter. This is the oldest square mile in New Orleans and home to more restaurants and bars than any other part of the city so let’s take a look.

ARNAUD’S IS LOCATED JUST OFF BOURBON STREET

This year it will be 101 years since Arnaud Cazenave founded this historic restaurant bearing his name. It is now tended by the fourth generation of the family and is known for serving some of the Big Easy’s best Creole food. One can enjoy a romantic dinner in the main dining room or cocktails in the French 75 bar – which won a James Beard Award for outstanding quality and service. On the menu you’ll find delicious soufflé potatoes with béarnaise sauce, oysters Ohan baked with eggplant and delectable crab cakes. Arnaud’s is located at 813 Bienville Street.   

NAPOLEON HOUSE ON THE CORNER: CHARTRES AND ST. LOUIS

This 200-year-old landmark was once the home of a New Orleans mayor who offered it to Napoleon as a refuge during his exile. Now it is known for its European charm and as a spot for civilized drinking and eating. It offers Jambalaya (spicy rice, chicken and sausage), seafood gumbo, a turkey club or an Italian muffuletta of ham, Genoa salami, pastrami, Swiss cheese and provolone cheese. And yes, you can also order bread pudding or a delicious cannoli for dessert. You’ll find the Napoleon House at 500 Chartres Street.

SYLVAIN’S RESTAURANT: JUST A BLOCK OFF JACKSON SQUARE

Fried pork shoulder with grits

Sylvain takes its name from the first opera performed in New Orleans. It is set in a carriage house that was built in the late eighteenth century. They describe their menu as offering, “Southern bistro classics elevated to the style of refined cuisine.” That’s a great description – and it’s true! For brunch they offer: Brioche French Toast (seasonal fruit compote, bacon, Steen’s cane syrup), Shrimp & Grits (tomato basil brodo, bacon, mushrooms and caramelized onions). “Brodo” is Italian for broth (I had to look it up). This charming spot is at 625 Chartres Street. 

SOBOU IS IN THE HIP “W” HOTEL ON CHARTRES STREET

Love the name! The moniker “SoBou” means South of Bourbon, which is rather catchy and clever. You can go here for breakfast, brunch, lunch and dinner. It describes itself as “a modern Creole saloon that offers ‘small plates’ prepared by our friendly bar team.” Why not go here for lunch? They offer: The Backyard Burger and, get this: a 25-cent martini, Monday to Friday from 11:30 am to 3 pm with the purchase of an entrée (the limit is three drinks per person) or, as they say, “That’s enough” – I totally agree. You’ll find this fun spot at 310 Chartres Street. 

Stay tuned. We’ll have more eating/drinking suggestions for you in next week’s blog.

Shaun Nelson-Henrick