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A Southern House Tour
Over the years I have made a point of going on Manhattan House Tours and attending the Decorator Show House in our fair city – both are sponsored by the Kips Bay Boys & Girls Club, an organization that has been around for 104 years. Because of this, I was immediately drawn to an article titled “The Southern Dream” that I saw in Southern Living of August 2019.
Over the years I have made a point of going on Manhattan House Tours and attending the Decorator Show House in our fair city – both are sponsored by the Kips Bay Boys & Girls Club, an organization that has been around for 104 years. Because of this, I was immediately drawn to an article titled “The Southern Dream” that I saw in Southern Living of August 2019.
WHAT IS THE “2019 IDEA HOUSE”?
The truly elegant 2019 “Idea House” created by a talented team
This is an annual event held by the magazine that is, according to the Editor-in-Chief Sid Evans, “one of the most intense and rewarding projects we undertake every year. It’s an effort to build and decorate an idyllic Southern dream home in a very tight time frame – usually around EIGHT MONTHS – and then produce a story about it.” In my mind that’s a killer deadline!
The bath features a tub between two vanities – Rule #1 for a happy marriage
All photos courtesy of Southern Living
WHAT IS THE BASIC CONCEPT BEHIND THIS PROJECT?
The idea is to build a brand new structure with a classic “old” look that embraces all the best features of Southern architecture and lifestyle. A team of architects, builders, interior designers, painters, woodworkers, writers, stylists and photographers is assembled. Or, as Evans says, “In many ways, it’s like a modern-day barn raising, with a community coming together to make something beautiful, lasting and inspiring.”
The entire back of the house faces the water – a proper foyer was eliminated – the spectacular view got top billing
WHERE IS THIS YEAR’S “IDEA HOUSE” LOCATED?
This year’s house is located on Crane Island, Florida, a gorgeous enclave of live oaks and palmettos near Fernandina Beach. Evans notes, “When we opened the house for tours on June 8th, several hundred people came to our celebratory party. There was a sense of pride that ran through the whole gathering. Or, as one said, ‘This house looks as if it’s been here forever.’ That’s exactly what we wanted to hear.”
WHAT ARE SOME OF THE ELEMENTS OF SOUTHERN STYLE?
The wall art is suspended on a brass picture hanging system
In her write-up about this project, titled “The Southern Dream” Senior Editor, Zoë Gowan writes, “This year’s ‘Idea House’ on Amelia Island has all the classic touches of a Southern home with island influences: high ceilings, broad porches and plenty of wide hallways to let gentle breezes pass through. This design also calls for large windows that can frame the views of the waterways and the large oak trees.”
The guest bedroom has twin beds and an 11 ft. ceiling
WHEN CAN YOU TAKE A TOUR OF THIS LOVELY STRUCTURE?
The Southern Living Idea House is open for tours until December 8th. The hours are Wednesday through Saturday from 10 am until 4 pm and Sunday from 1 pm until 4 pm. The admission is $22, with a portion of the proceeds going to the Amelia Island Museum of History. For more details please visit
This site offers a fascinating look at the island itself. It says, “We are surrounded by unspoiled, idyllic beauty, and are just a bike ride away from breathtaking beaches, spectacular sunsets, world class culinary talent and a true Main Street downtown – all this and more with easy access to a private airport as well as the Jacksonville International Airport.“
So there you have it. I’d like to leave any time in the next five minutes.
Shaun Nelson-Henrick
The Bible Belt and Dixie Alley
I have heard the expression “The Bible Belt” for years. On the other hand, until I started doing research for this blog I had never heard the words “Dixie Alley.” I also queried a buddy of mine and she had never heard it either. That prompted me to write this blog and clarify these terms – including the well-known expression, “Tornado Alley.” I don’t want to bore you with a lot of information – rather, I’ve decided on quick bulleted points to get a number of fun facts across. Here goes:
I have heard the expression “The Bible Belt” for years. On the other hand, until I started doing research for this blog I had never heard the words “Dixie Alley.” I also queried a buddy of mine and she had never heard it either. That prompted me to write this blog and clarify these terms – including the well-known expression, “Tornado Alley.” I don’t want to bore you with a lot of information – rather, I’ve decided on quick bulleted points to get a number of fun facts across. Here goes:
LET’S PINPOINT THE BIBLE BELT
The term “Bible Belt” is usually used to describe these 10 states: Mississippi, Alabama, Louisiana, Arkansas, South Carolina, Tennessee, North Carolina, Georgia and Oklahoma. The tenth is Utah – which is included from a religious point of view BUT is not commonly referred to as “part of the Bible Belt” – strange, but true.
The term “Bible Belt” includes Southern Baptists, Methodists and evangelical Protestantism belief systems. A recent survey found that Mississippi is the state with the highest percentage of “very religious” Americans.
That said, the Bible Belt is also a region of a variety of social issues. Namely: (1) Educational attainment and college graduation rates in the Bible Belt are among the lowest in the U.S., and (2) Heart disease, obesity, homicide and teenage pregnancies are among the highest in the nation.
NOW LET’S LOOK AT THE OTHER SIDE
We’ll call this “The Un-Bible Belts” in the U.S. This includes the Pacific Northwest and the northeastern United States. The 10 “least religious” states include: Vermont, New Hampshire, Maine, Massachusetts, Alaska, Oregon, Nevada, Washington and Connecticut. New York and Rhode Island tied for 10th place (for a total of 11 states). Well, at least New York didn’t come in first – based on the number of reprobates and heathens I know I thought for sure we’d be #1.
NEW SUBJECT: TORNADOES IN THE U.S.
The United States has MORE TORNADOES than any other country in the world – or, over 1,200 annually and four times the amount seen in Europe. Violent tornadoes – those rated EF4 or EF5 – occur more often in the U.S. than in any other country.
Most occur east of the Rocky Mountains, meaning: The Great Plains, the Midwest, the Mississippi Valley and the southern U.S.
“Tornado Alley” is a term for an area particularly prone to tornadoes – it stretches from northern Texas to Canada with its core centered on Oklahoma, Kansas and northern Texas.
Favorable conditions for tornadoes in the U.S. can occur at any time. However, they are most common in the spring and least common in the winter. That said, a non-season tornado struck McLean County, Illinois during the winter and blew 20 railroad cars off their tracks.
The wreckage that’s left after a twister hits
DEADLY DIXIE: TORNADO ALLEY’S LETHAL NEIGHBOR
Storm chasers flock to Tornado Alley each spring to see monster storms in person, but the real action is farther southeast. They’re just more difficult to see because they’re often under the cover of night.
The fastest, longest-lasting and deadliest twisters strike the southeast – commonly known as Dixie Alley to weather buffs. Dixie Alley is just a deadly extension of the more famous Tornado Alley in the Great Plains.
Tornadoes don't lollygag in Dixie Alley, which spreads from the Lower Mississippi Valley to the Upper Tennessee Valley. “They tend to last longer and move faster,” says one storm chaser. “In 2010, Mississippi led the nation with three killer tornadoes.”
Nothing is left, but the American spirit is strong.
So there you have it – lots of info about the Bible Belt, Tornado Alley and Dixie Alley. But don’t worry because I’ve just come across this interesting statistic: the odds of being hit by a tornado are “1 in 4,513,000” – so we’re all pretty safe.
Shaun Nelson-Henrick
"Yes, I Read All 1,448 Pages"
On Friday, July 12th at 10 pm I decided to watch all four hours of Gone With The Wind on Turner Classic Movies (TCM). Of course, I’d seen it many times before – sometimes in bits and pieces – so I thought it would be a good idea to watch the entire film straight through with no commercials and no breaks – except for the classy “Intermission.”
On Friday, July 12th at 10 pm I decided to watch all four hours of Gone With The Wind on Turner Classic Movies (TCM). Of course, I’d seen it many times before – sometimes in bits and pieces – so I thought it would be a good idea to watch the entire film straight through with no commercials and no breaks – except for the classy “Intermission.”
After it was over I decided that, for a movie that came out in 1939, it was as captivating and timely as anything we’re seeing today. I also realized, for the first time that I had never read the book the movie is based on. Why not? I didn’t have a good answer so I decided to go to the NY Public Library and reserve a copy. Now was as good a time as ever to read this famous opus by Margaret Mitchell that was published in 1936 and purchased by David Selznick in the same year for a record-breaking $50,000. That’s $903,261.99 in today’s money.
I got the notice that the book was at the library. As I picked it off the reserve shelf on July 20th, I almost passed out. It didn’t look like a book – it looked like a BRICK that was 4” wide x 6 ¾” long x an astounding 3” high. In my entire life I’ve never seen a book like this. Frankly, I was overwhelmed so after a couple of days I decided to make a schedule that was based on reading 64 pages per day. I wanted to finish GWTW on time: meaning check it out on July 20th and return it by August 10th – all 1,448 pages of it! Do this on time and still keep the rest of my life from falling apart. (I ended up taking it back on August 4th.)
THE BOOK VERSUS THE MOVIE
The book begins with a 13-page Preface written by writer Pat Conroy who was born in Atlanta and is author of The Prince of Tides. I rarely read introductory material but I read Conroy’s comments because he’s a terrific writer. His mother first read GWTW aloud to him when he was five years old and made a point of rereading it every year thereafter. Conroy also writes that, “whenever the movie version was released again by MGM, my mother would march all her children down to the local theatre with a sense of religious anticipation.”
Both the book and the movie begin the same: Scarlett O’Hara at the Wilkes barbecue surrounded by young men absolutely smitten by her beauty and charm. This is also where she sees Rhett Butler for the first time. Or, as Conway describes these two: “With the introduction of Scarlett O’Hara and Rhett Butler, Miss Mitchell managed to create the two most famous lovers in the English-speaking world since Romeo and Juliet.” I totally agree.
We all know that Rhett was older than Scarlett – but how much? I finally found this on page 1441 when Rhett asks, “How old are you, my dear? You never would tell me.” And she answers, “Twenty-eight.” And then, on page 1444, he replies, “I’m forty-five – the age when a man begins to value some of the things he’s thrown away in youth, the clannishness of families.” Based on these two statements it would appear that GWTW covers Scarlett from 16 to 28 and Rhett is 17 years older.
This means that in a span of 12 years Scarlett had three husbands and a child by each one – in the book BUT only Rhett’s child, Bonnie, in the movie. I have written a number of scripts but tackling this book would be beyond the beyond. Screenwriter and playwright Sidney Howard wrote it and received a posthumous Academy Award in 1940. The famous line delivered by Rhett, “My dear, I don’t give a damn” comes from the book.
On 2/22/19, the Atlanta History Center opened Cyclorama: The Big Picture, featuring the fully restored cyclorama painting, The Battle of Atlanta. At the centerpiece of this new multi-media experience is a 132-year-old hand-painted work of art that stands 49’ tall, is longer than a football field and weighs 10,000 lbs.
The strongest feature of GWTW is a very POWERFUL story that never falters. Yes, we saw the burning of Atlanta in the film when Rhett pulls a frightened horse by a flaming building. But the book has more shocking details: the total destruction of Atlanta and the mayhem caused by the Reconstruction after the South lost the Civil War. This caused me to think: what do Southerners really think of us Yankees today? I remember visiting a friend in Atlanta back a bit and ordering a double-decker sandwich in a classy restaurant. It was held together by a toothpick – nothing unusual about that – except for one thing: the toothpick sported a Confederate flag.
The Confederate Battle flag – red, white and blue – the three stars on each arm of the cross and one star in the center. The stars represent each of the states of the Confederacy plus one. It was made in 1861 and measures 48”x 48”
A Few Tips For Your Visit
Plans are being made now by travelers planning to visit New Orleans during the December holiday season followed by Mardi Gras in 2020. In view of this I’ve decided to write an info blog filled with nitty-gritty details of what to expect when you arrive in THE BIG EASY. This is not a glam topic – it’s a useful one – so let’s get started.
Plans are being made now by travelers planning to visit New Orleans during the December holiday season followed by Mardi Gras in 2020. In view of this I’ve decided to write an info blog filled with nitty-gritty details of what to expect when you arrive in THE BIG EASY. This is not a glam topic – it’s a useful one – so let’s get started.
THE TOUCHY SUBJECT OF MONEY
There are three straightforward ways to handle money in the United States: (1) Cold cash – U.S. dollars are the only acceptable currency in New Orleans, (2) US-dollar traveler’s checks, and (3) credit or bank (meaning debit) cards – which can be used to withdraw cash from automatic teller machines (ATMs) in New Orleans and elsewhere.
WHERE ARE THE AUTOMATIC TELLER MACHINES?
You can easily obtain cash from ATMs all over New Orleans. Tip: it’s a good idea to keep cash for cabs and bars – just in case they prefer cash. And, of course, you’ll always find ATMs in well-known banks such as Chase and places like the New Orleans airport.
WHERE CAN YOU CHANGE MONEY IN NOLA?
Most major currencies and leading brands of traveler’s checks are easily exchanged in New Orleans. You will also find a number of independent exchange bureaus. When you arrive at the NOLA airport look for the Travelex America Business Center for this service.
WHERE CAN YOU USE CREDIT AND DEBIT CARDS?
Major credit cards are widely accepted by car rental agencies and most hotels, restaurants, gas stations, shops and larger grocery stores. You may find that smaller restaurants will only accept cash. Tourist and recreational activities can also be paid for by credit card. The most commonly accepted cards are Visa, MasterCard and American Express.
ARE TRAVELER’S CHECKS STILL IN USE?
ATMs and debit cards have nearly rendered traveler’s checks obsolete – but if this is your preference they are still virtually as good as cash in the USA and can be replaced if lost or stolen. Both American Express and Thomas Cook still issue traveler’s checks.
WHAT ARE THE BUSINESS/OPENING HOURS IN NOLA?
Except for bars, New Orleans maintains the same hours as the rest of the USA. Let’s take a look at: (1) BANKS: 9am to 5pm Monday to Thursday, 10am to 5:30pm Friday and some are open 9am to noon on Saturdays. (2) BARS: Usually 5pm until the last customer leaves (official closing 2am on weekdays and 3am or 4am on weekends. (3) RESTAURANTS: 10am or 11am to 11pm (sometimes with a break from 2pm to 5pm) usually closed Sunday and/or Monday. (4) STORES: 10am to 7pm or 8pm.
WHAT HAPPENS IF YOU NEED A DRUGSTORE FAST?
Nonprescription medications can be purchased in WALGREENS, located at 619 Decatur Street in the French Quarter (8am until midnight) 504-525-7263. You’ll also find CVS at various spots in New Orleans.
WHAT IF YOU NEED “A JOHN” OR TOURIST INFO?
We think of everything! PUBLIC RESTROOMS can be found in the Jackson Brewery mall and the French Market. Larger hotels usually have rest rooms off the lobby. Finally, the NEW ORLEANS WELCOME CENTER is located at 529 St. Ann Street – right next to Jackson Square in the heart of the French Quarter. You’ll also find information kiosks scattered throughout the main tourist areas. Good luck and have fun!
Shaun Nelson-Henrick
What's Coming in November?
In the past, you may have heard that New Orleans slows down a bit in the winter months. Well, the truth is: not much – there’s still plenty to do and see for visitors and those who like to have a good time. Let’s take a look.
In the past, you may have heard that New Orleans slows down a bit in the winter months. Well, the truth is: not much – there’s still plenty to do and see for visitors and those who like to have a good time. Let’s take a look.
YES, NOLA HAS A THANKSGIVING DAY PARADE
You’ll hear great music at the Bayou Classic festivities
It’s not like the Macy’s parade in New York, but it’s still a lot of fun. The Bayou Classic Thanksgiving Day Parade will roll through New Orleans from 3:30 pm to 6 pm. The parade starts at the Superdome and goes all the way down to the French Market. Both Grambling State and Southern University marching bands will be playing.
THE BAYOU CLASSIC: A COLLEGE FOOTBALL GAME
Come and enjoy the best time you’ll ever have at this annual tradition of fun and football by fans of the Tigers (Grambling: black/gold) and the Jaguars (Southern: blue/gold). What started out in 1974 – that’s 45 years ago – as a simple football game between two historically black universities has evolved into one of New Orleans biggest and most-anticipated sporting events. On the Saturday after Thanksgiving you’ll have a rip-roaring time at the Mercedes-Benz Superdome when the Tigers and the Jaguars go paw-to-paw. Take note: over the years, both teams have sent an astounding number of players on to the NFL and other football leagues.
HORSE RACING SEASON OPENS ON THANKSGIVING DAY
What’s happening at the nation’s third-oldest horse racing track? Well, the racing season officially opens on Thanksgiving Day at the Fair Grounds Race Course. And, you can count on getting a delicious Thanksgiving dinner if you make a reservation at the glass-enclosed clubhouse. Why not? This could be a totally new adventure! The 2019 season will run from Thanksgiving weekend to the end of March 2020.
New Orleans Fair Grounds Race Course and Slots in action
THE TREMÉ CREOLE GUMBO FESTIVAL
Here’s the good news: this is a FREE two-day event that’s held at the Louis Armstrong Park located at 701 N. Rampart Street in New Orleans from 11 am to 7:30 pm on Saturday, November 16 and Sunday, November 17, 2019. This is the best place on planet earth to sample a dozen different styles of gumbo.
Eat your heart out at the Gumbo Fest
A SYMBOL OF THE MELTING POT OF NEW ORLEANS
This is how we describe gumbo! This fest is a great place to sample a new gumbo – one you’ve never had before. But first, let’s take a look at gumbo versus jambalaya: gumbo is a rich, flavorful soup often served over rice while jambalaya is similar to Spanish paella.
Gumbo is usually described by what is used to thicken it: (1) okra, (2) filé powder – dried crushed leaves, or (3) a roux, or some combination of all three. You can choose from the following: (4) a spicy, seafood gumbo that calls for crabmeat, shrimp and sausage served over rice, (5) a hearty chicken gumbo with both roux and okra as thickeners, (6) turkey and the French andouille sausage gumbo and so on – the list is endless – but they all have one thing in common: they’ll satisfy your appetite AND your soul. We definitely expect to see you at the Gumbo Fest!
CELEBRATION IN THE OAKS FOR 2019
At the Oaks: Nov. 29, 2019 until Jan. 1, 2020 – closed Christmas Eve (night) and New Year’s Eve (night)
The dates for this year are November 29, 2019 to January 1, 2020 and the location is New Orleans City Park. We’re just giving you a “heads up” and a link to last year’s blog for this event – more coming in November. Stay tuned. CLICK HERE TO READ OUR 2018 BLOG ABOUT THE OAKS
Shaun Nelson-Henrick
Two Southern Hotbeds of Music
For this blog I thought it would be interesting to compare two Tennessee cities that are 212 miles apart (a three-hour drive) and are roughly the same size. In 2017 the population of Nashville, the state capital, was 665,967 while Memphis was 652,231.
For this blog I thought it would be interesting to compare two Tennessee cities that are 212 miles apart (a three-hour drive) and are roughly the same size. In 2017 the population of Nashville, the state capital, was 665,967 while Memphis was 652,231.
Another feature they have in common is an all-consuming love of music. Memphis is renowned for its vibrant blues scene while Nashville is the home of country. And because of this, both welcome many visitors every year. The numbers are impressive: 11.7 million for Memphis, 14.5 million for Nashville.
Soul music is the heart and soul of Memphis
But there are also differences: Memphis is 65% black, 27% white and 8% Hispanic while Nashville is 30% black, 59% white and 11% Hispanic. Also, Nashville residents are more likely to be college educated than those in Memphis or the rest of Tennessee.
In spite of their incredible interest in music there’s a glaring difference when one looks at the number of businesses operating recording studios. Sadly, Memphis has exactly one while Nashville has 65.
All of the above is a general overview of these two hotbeds of music – now, let’s take a closer look at each of them.
WHAT’S SO SPECIAL ABOUT MEMPHIS?
This city, which sits on the Eastern bank of the Mississippi River, is known as the home of the blues and birthplace of rock-n-roll, with its iconic Beale Street entertainment, star-studded Sun Studio artists (Elvis, Johnny Cash, Jerry Lee Lewis, Charlie Rich, Roy Orbison, and Carl Perkins) plus Presley’s larger-than-life Graceland estate.
The city of Memphis in the U.S. was founded on May 22, 1819 and was incorporated on December 19, 1826. It was named after one of the oldest and most important cities in ancient Egypt that was situated on the banks of the Nile.
WHAT’S SO SPECIAL ABOUT NASHVILLE?
Nashville is located on the shores of the Cumberland River and is known as Tennessee’s “Music City.” It was founded in 1779 and is named in memory of Francis Nash, an American Revolutionary War hero.
It has two of the most famous music venues of all-time: the Grand ole Opry and the Ryman auditorium. It is referred to as the country music capital of the world. The Grand Ole Opry is the longest continuously running live radio program in the world. It has broadcast every weekend since 1925 or a whopping 94 years!
It’s said that you haven’t eaten like a true Nashvillian until you have enjoyed “a meat and three” which is simply this: order one meat (fried chicken, country ham, beef, country-fried steak, meatloaf or pork chops) and three side dishes from a list such as: mashed potatoes, creamed corn, green beans, macaroni-and-cheese or spaghetti. This is often served with cornbread and sweet tea.
Food in Nashville has been described as “glorious vittles served with the utmost informality” and it’s also associated with soul food (sweet potato pie, peach cobbler, black-eyes peas, catfish and collard greens).
CLICK HERE for “Nobody Knows When You’re Down and Out” as sung by the great blues singer Bessie Smith.
CLICK HERE for “I Fall to Pieces” by country/western songstress Patsy Kline.
AN IDEA for the denizens of Memphis and Nashville – why not visit New Orleans for Christmas? Stay at the Rathbone Mansions and celebrate the holidays in a new and different way.
Shaun Nelson-Henrick
A Different Take on New Orleans
I came across an article that touched on a topic I’d never seen before. It appeared in the August 2019 issue of AFAR magazine, a relatively new publication that I signed up for recently. Sarah M. Broom, a writer who has appeared in the New York Times Magazine and the New Yorker, among other publications has written an intriguing piece.
I came across an article that touched on a topic I’d never seen before. It appeared in the August 2019 issue of AFAR magazine, a relatively new publication that I signed up for recently. Sarah M. Broom, a writer who has appeared in the New York Times Magazine and the New Yorker, among other publications has written an intriguing piece.
Broom grew up in New Orleans East, a neighborhood most travelers and visitors to NOLA don’t see. During a summer home from the University of North Texas, she took a job – her very first one – in the French Quarter. This resulted in Broom’s change of heart as she gained a new perspective of the city where she had lived all her life.
New Orleans East is the place to go if one wants to see how the people behind NOLA’s magic live – when the music stops
WHERE IS BOURBON STREET?
Her barista job was at CC’s Coffee House on Royal Street where she found that, along with coffee orders she answered questions: the most popular one being about the famous Bourbon Street.
On her 15-minute breaks she stared through the window of the place where she worked and observed the people walking by. But, on her lunch breaks she wandered the streets with her camera, e.g., a man playing a horn along the Mississippi or a juggler on stilts leaning against a street sign. These were the photos she took back to Texas as memories of the place she grew up.
HER FIRST TIME IN THE FRENCH QUARTER
Despite living all her life in New Orleans she had never spent time in the French Quarter until she worked there. It was life changing, or as she writes, “After that summer I based all my stories about my growing-up years that played to the ‘non-natives’ imagination.” She wrote scholarship essays and told stories about young boys tap dancing with Coca-Cola bottle tops on the bottom of their sneakers.
Traveling home after work involved a journey with employees and their uniforms: Napoleon House wore all black with white lettering, females in black with white aprons were hotel cleaning women while those in green-grass outfits worked at the Hotel Monteleone. Brown’s uniform was khaki pants, a burgundy cap and a matching polo shirt.
RETURNING HOME BY BUS
Broom traveled by bus to the corner of Downman and Chef Menteur where she waited to transfer to a second bus. She confesses that she “took no photos of New Orleans East because this was not what her college friends wanted to see.” The reality of Broom’s home district was this: no iconic street lamps, no street musicians playing on a flat industrial landscape, no streetcars with joggers alongside them, few restaurants, no cafes to stop in for a quick cup of java.
She found the French Quarter to be a marvel + escape from the East New Orleans where she lived on the short end of Wilson Avenue.
SO WHAT’S THE BOTTOM LINE?
Later in life Broom came to realize that she had embraced a New Orleans myth AND writes “I came to lay that much of what was wayward and backward about myself on New Orleans: I can cook, I love jazz, BUT I am interesting because…
Yes, you are Ms. Broom and we salute you.
Shaun Nelson-Henrick
NOTE: The above was excerpted from: The Yellow House by Sarah M. Brown that was published by Grove Press in August 2019.
Whatever You Desire: We've Got It
In the past months we’ve covered Bourbon, Royal and Frenchmen Streets in detail so now we’re going to move on to two lesser-known spots: St. Claude and Freret Avenues.
In the past months we’ve covered Bourbon, Royal and Frenchmen Streets in detail so now we’re going to move on to two lesser-known spots: St. Claude and Freret Avenues.
Delicious eats at the St. Roch Market located at 2381 St. Claude Avenue in New Orleans
ST. CLAUDE AVE: everything from soup to nuts
This emerging avenue was known as Good Children until 1850. The St. Claude Corridor, as it’s often called, is home to a number of pubs, theatres and restaurants that have joined the old, classic Saturn Bar (in business 62 years) to create a destination for dining and fun.
Dancing at the old classic Saturn Bar that’s been around for over 62 years
St. Claude Avenue goes from Esplanade to the Industrial Canal – a distance of less than three miles that’s chock full of action. The corridor is home to the nicely restored St. Roch Market food hall, restaurants such as Red’s Chinese, The Sneaky Pickle and Sugar Park plus galleries and performance spaces.
It runs through the downtown neighborhoods of Marigny and Bywater – then into Holy Cross and the Lower Ninth Ward. At one point it was renamed for Claude Tremé who came from France to New Orleans in the late 18th century. This avenue has a history of reinvention and change. In recent years music clubs, coffee shops, dance studios and art galleries have appeared. In short, it has something for everyone. Let’s take a look.
I. THE HI HO LOUNGE: It hosts nightly shows with local musicians as well as weekly bluegrass jam sessions. It also features improv and burlesque performances. Delicious food specialties are served in the courtyard.
II. SIBERIA is a music club offering live music that features everything from heavy metal to blues. The kitchen comes up with delicious borscht (beet soup), kielbasa (a tasty Polish sausage) and beef stroganoff plus brunch on the weekend.
III. CAFÉ INSTANBUL has open mike storytelling competitions, live music, acrobatic and belly dance performances. Note: belly dancing is considered to be the oldest form of dance by many historical experts. Its roots have been traced to the Middle East, Mediterranean and Africa.
IV. ST. ROCH MARKET was first built in 1875 as an open-air public market. In the second half of the 20th century it was a seafood market. Then in 2014 it became an upscale food court and is considered the perfect place to dine or drink with a group.
V. There are many more things to see on St. Claude Avenue – here are a few of the more unusual ones: The New Orleans Boulder Lounge (climbing at low heights with no ropes or harnesses; Restoration Thrift – sells used clothing, furniture, household items; and Maypop Community Herb Shop – for soaps, medicinal herbs, teas, lotions and essential oils.
FRERET AVE: cafes, bistros, bars and clubs
VI. This street is having an exciting revival. Come and explore new shops between Jefferson Avenue (to the west), Napoleon Avenue (to the east), LaSalle Street (to the south) Freret is a great idea for lunch or a leisurely stroll.
VII. THE FRERET BEER ROOM has 16 constantly rotating tap lines that show off beer’s complex range of flavors. One happy customer says, “We liked not waiting. We sipped $5.00 mimosas and loved every minute.”
VIII. CURE is an adult bar and only permits adults 21 and up – that includes babies. (I’m laughing at this.) One happy camper says, “We loved this place! Come here if you’re looking for a nice cocktail bar.”
IX. COMPANY BURGER was voted “the best burger in New Orleans” – even better – you can finish it off with a milkshake.
X. GASA GASA is where local musicians perform nightly from Monday to Saturday – Gasa Gasa also presents film screenings and has recording sessions. The mural on the side of their building makes for great shots.
Shaun Nelson-Henrick
A Southern Writer Who Rocked the World
Around 8:00 pm in late May, I was searching for something (anything halfway decent) to watch on TV. Programs such as: “I Love My 600-lb. Carcass” and “I Was a Nut Hoarder For 25 Years” didn’t inspire me. And then, I hit on a movie titled “God’s Little Acre” that came out in 1958, with Robert Ryan and Tina Louise, and is based on the best-selling novel by Erskine Caldwell – that I had never read. Within minutes I was caught up in this riveting film.
Around 8:00 pm in late May, I was searching for something (anything halfway decent) to watch on TV. Programs such as: “I Love My 600-lb. Carcass” and “I Was a Nut Hoarder For 25 Years” didn’t inspire me. And then, I hit on a movie titled “God’s Little Acre” that came out in 1958, with Robert Ryan and Tina Louise, and is based on the best-selling novel by Erskine Caldwell – that I had never read. Within minutes I was caught up in this riveting film.
God’s Little Acre with Robert Ryan, Tina Louise and Buddy Hackett – a 1958 movie based on Erskine Caldwell’s best-selling book
WHO WAS ERSKINE CALDWELL?
According to an insightful report by Jack Jones, an American journalist who worked for the Los Angeles Times, “this author shocked readers and outraged many of his fellow Southerners with unvarnished novels and short stories about squalid life in the cotton country backwoods. Caldwell was the talented writer of ‘Tobacco Road’ (published in 1932) and ‘God’s Little Acre’ – that came out a year later.”
Author Erskine Caldwell
Jones goes on to say that, “Caldwell was one of the most successful writers in history. His books have sold more than 80 million copies worldwide and have been translated into more than 40 languages. But it wasn’t smooth sailing because ‘God’s Little Acre’ was banned in Boston and reviled by many after it was published.”
HE WAS A PRESBYTERIAN MINISTER’S SON
When I read this my jaw dropped. Apparently, as a boy he saw poverty govern the lives of both blacks and whites throughout rural Georgia and other parts of the South so he wrote what he saw – with his own eyes. And, he never seemed perturbed by the criticism he received for putting his seamy images in print.
In 1985 he said, “I must have had an impact for good, rather than bad. There’s been a great deal of change in Georgia and the rural south. If my writing opened someone’s eyes, then I have been successful.”
THE BOOK “TOBACCO ROAD” AS A STAGE PLAY
Now let’s switch to author, Studs Terkel who wrote the book, “Working” (published in 1974) and is “oral histories of everyday people talking about their jobs.” This is a fascinating book that includes an interview with writer-producer, Jack Kirkland, who brought Caldwell’s book, “Tobacco Road” to the Broadway stage where it ran for close to eight years. (The royalties from this stage play alone were enough to keep Caldwell comfortable for many years.)
WHO WAS JACK KIRKLAND?
Playwright Jack Kirkland
Here’s his story: “In the spring of 1932, I woke up with a violent hangover. That afternoon, my agent gave me the book ‘Tobacco Road’ to read. He said, “You’re a southerner, you’ll dig this. I went home with my hangover and read it. I said to myself, ‘This is a play.’ I took the book and went to live in Majorca for four months. I was quite broke at the time.”
He completed the play in Hollywood where he wrote films for “very big salaries” – one was a highly successful Shirley Temple movie. “Let’s face it,” he says with a laugh, “Shirley Temple is responsible for ‘Tobacco Road’.”
Child star, Shirley Temple – who was called “America’s Little Darling”
TOBACCO ROAD OPENED ON BROADWAY IN 12/3/33
Kirkland says, “No one would touch it – they were all afraid. I put up all the money myself. The reviews were not too good, except for the raves for Henry Hull’s performance. Then the ‘Daily News’ newspaper liked it and wrote an editorial. The next day we were in – George Jean Nathan, Bob Benchley, Dorothy Parker, all came out for it.”
“Mrs. Roosevelt came down to Atlanta when it opened there. She did this in case there was any trouble. But there was none whatsoever. For the next eight years, I had a swinging time. Everything was so reasonable and my income was so big,” he says laughing again. Overall, I think this is a great story. And here am I – in 2019 watching a movie based on a book published in 1932. That’s longevity plus-plus.
Shaun Nelson-Henrick
Day Trips From New Orleans
When traveling to, and staying in, the jazz-filled city of New Orleans it can be a good idea to “take a breather” and go on a side trip to smaller, quieter spots that are within reach. Let’s take a look.
When traveling to, and staying in, the jazz-filled city of New Orleans it can be a good idea to “take a breather” and go on a side trip to smaller, quieter spots that are within reach. Let’s take a look.
#1 CAJUN PRAIRIE
This is the name of the inland area between (a) the marshes to the southwest around Lake Charles, (b) the pine forests of central Louisiana and (c) the bayous and swamps to the southeast. The Prairie is renowned for its Cajun and Zydeco music and is also home to the Cajun Music Hall of Fame. Cajun country in the Deep South is the largest French-speaking area in the entire United States. Also, in many ways, this region is a blend of both South Louisiana and East Texas – the 10-gallon hat still rules.
Physically, it is truly prairie: wide expanses of green flatlands, broken up by rice and crawfish ponds. Eunice (30 miles from Lafayette) and Opelousas (Louisiana’s third-oldest city; founded by the French in 1720) are the major towns in the prairie, but you’ll also find Mamou which bills itself as “The Cajun Music Capital of the World” and Ville Platte or “The Smoked Meat Capital of the World.” (Sorry, I can’t help laughing.)
#2 LAFAYETTE AND BREAUX BRIDGE
Having a real good time in Lafayette, Louisiana – where Cajun music reigns
One recent visitor to Lafayette (135 miles west from NOLA) writes that, “This town was bigger than what we were looking for. Breaux Bridge was a nice base for visiting the local area. New Iberia is another neat town.” The 200-year-old bridge gives the town its name. Note: the population of Lafayette was 126,848 as of 2017, while the population of New Orleans is 369,000 – down significantly from 10 years ago.
Breaux Bridge is the gateway to authentic Cajun culture in south Louisiana. It is home to the Breaux Bridge Crawfish Festival, where hundreds of folks come to pay homage to Louisiana’s famous crustacean. Take a stroll down the quaint downtown streets and you’ll find yourself transported to a time before life became hectic. Neighbors still know each other by name. People stop to chat. Everyone truly follows the state motto: Laissez le bon temps rouler (Let the good times roll).
You’ll also find the University of Louisiana at Lafayette that sports live turtles and alligators in Cypress Lake on its campus. Yikes! And, of course, you’ll feast on Cajun cuisine that includes the Cajun sausage, “boudin” which is pronounced “BOO-dan.” It’s made with the beloved sausage, flour, salt, breadcrumbs, eggs and milk. CLICK HERE for Boudin Balls with a Creole Mustard Sauce.
Great eats are always ready and waiting in Cajun country
Or, a culinary staple such as jambalaya: a dish comprised of a mix of chicken, shrimp, sausage with tomatoes, green pepper, onion, hot sauce, spices and rice. CLICK HERE for a delicious Jambalaya recipe.
#3 DOWN THE BAYOU
If you’re driving, the local residents say that “done slow” is the way you should approach your road trip. Roughly 68 miles southeast of Lafayette you’ll find the RIG MUSEUM (which is 80 miles south of Baton Rouge and 90 miles southwest of New Orleans). This museum bills itself as, “The only place in the world where you can walk aboard an authentic offshore DRILLING RIG.” Now, I’d do that in a New York minute!
Here, you can visit Houma (population 33,278 in 2017) and go charter boat fishing, hike on a birding trail or visit an exotic wildlife park – it’s all up to you!
Shaun Nelson-Henrick
The Mystique of the Voodoo Queen
I realized that, over the 74 blogs that I’ve written for Rathbone I’ve mentioned Marie Laveau, the so-called “Voodoo Queen of New Orleans” a number of times. But, I still don’t know very much about her. I said to myself, “This has to change.” So here goes.
I realized that, over the 74 blogs that I’ve written for Rathbone I’ve mentioned Marie Laveau, the so-called “Voodoo Queen of New Orleans” a number of times. But, I still don’t know very much about her. I said to myself, “This has to change.” So here goes.
Marie Laveau, the Voodoo Queen of New Orleans
MARIE LAVEAU was born in 1794 in the French Quarter and lived to the ripe old age of 87 – not bad for a lady who lived such a tumultuous life! Why do I say this? Well, for the first time I read that she had 17 children – that is pretty unbelievable – in any day and age. Even more so when you realize that she is one of the most well known historic figures in the history of New Orleans.
SHE WAS BORN FREE. Her mother was a freed slave named Marguerite Darcantrel and her father was a rich and free mulatto (a person of mixed black-and-white ancestry, especially a person with one black and one white parent) businessman named Charles Laveaux. This meant that Marie was the first generation of her family to be born free.
TAKING A LOOK BACK. The first white settlers of Louisiana were French, usually the second born sons of aristocrats who left France to seek adventure in the New World. These Frenchmen came to be called CREOLE and made up the upper crust of New Orleans. (The word was later used to refer to white Frenchmen as well as people of color.) Many CREOLES today can trace their ancestors back to that time.
MARIE GREW UP on her wealthy father’s plantation where she was educated and studied to be a hairdresser. She was also a devout Catholic and went to church every day of her life.
AT THE AGE OF 25 she married a carpenter named Jacques Paris, a free person of color from Haiti. Their marriage certificate is preserved in St. Louis Cathedral in New Orleans. At this time Marie is described as tall, beautiful and statuesque with curly black hair, golden skin and “good” features (meaning more white than black). Five years later, her husband was missing and presumed dead – although there was evidence that he had deserted her. For whatever reason, she was left with two children to bring up. She began calling herself “The Widow Paris.” CLICK HERE for info about cemeteries in New Orleans.
WORKING AS A HAIRDRESSER and catering to the wealthy white and Creole women of New Orleans in her thirties is considered the beginning of her enduring legend. Many of these women looked upon her as a confidante and told her their most intimate secrets about their husbands and lovers. They even divulged news about their husbands’ mistresses and business affairs. Note: I have always been amazed at what women say while having their hair done.
A SECOND UNION in her thirties happened when she entered into a common law marriage (no formal ceremony or a marriage license) with Louis Christophe Dumesnil de Glapion, a member of a prominent local family and lived with him until his death in 1855. Although she and Glapion never married, she had 15 children by him in rapid succession and ultimately ended her hairdressing career to raise her family.
This spooky scene can be found at the Voodoo Museum in New Orleans
HER CAREER IN VOODOO began when she learned her craft from Doctor John (a voodoo doctor). By her late thirties she was a Voodoo Queen who combined Voodoo beliefs with Catholic traditions – which made it more acceptable to upper-class New Orleans society. Voodoo is practiced around the world but has no scripture. It is community-centered and supports individual experience and empowerment. CLICK HERE to read more about Halloween/voodoo.
Marie Laveau’s tomb is covered with the letter “X”— the beads and flowers are offerings by visitors
There are tangled tales and myths about Marie Laveau’s powers that went on right into her eighties and, in fact, are alive and well today. CLICK HERE to take a look at voodoo shops in New Orleans.
Do you know that gamblers shout her name when throwing dice? That says it all.
Shaun Nelson-Henrick
On the Calendar for October, PART II
KREWE OF BOO
Since 2007 this has been the official New Orleans Halloween Parade that takes place on Saturday, October 19th. It begins at Elysian Fields and makes its way through the French Quarter to Jackson Square, then wends its way to the Warehouse District and finally ends at the Convention Center. This parade is always held on the Saturday evening before the Halloween weekend (this year Halloween night falls on Thursday, October 31st).
THE KREWE OF BOO
Since 2007 this has been the official New Orleans Halloween Parade that takes place on Saturday, October 19th. It begins at Elysian Fields and makes its way through the French Quarter to Jackson Square, then wends its way to the Warehouse District and finally ends at the Convention Center. This parade is always held on the Saturday evening before the Halloween weekend (this year Halloween night falls on Thursday, October 31st).
Chills and thrills at Halloween with the Krewe of Boo
The artists at Kern Studios (America’s premier float-building organization) design 3-D papier mâché and fiberglass props that replicate Halloween’s spooky creatures. Believe me, they will frighten and excite you. Of course, folks in the parade itself reward everyone with “throws” that include beads, voodoo doll pins, magnets, doubloons and toys for kids.
This is an event for all ages that will get everyone into a celebratory mood. Don’t miss it! CLICK HERE for more info in PART I.
HALLOWEEN IN NEW ORLEANS
Let’s start with dates to remember: there’s a lot of activity from Friday, October 25th to Sunday, October 27th. This legendary event is sponsored by LGBTQ (lesbian, gay, bisexual, transgender and queer) that has been raising money for Project Lazarus (an HIV/AIDS-assisted-living facility) for 35 years (over $4.5 million). The weekend consists of three events:
(1) On Friday, October 25 at 7:30 pm there is THE LAZARUS BALL. Black tie is optional. There is a silent auction plus food and music.
(2) Then on Saturday, October 26, 10 pm to 3 am, the MAIN EVENT at the Fillmore goes into action. This is a costume-required dance party and contest plus a midnight show.
(3) Finally, on Sunday, October 27, 1 to 6 pm you’re invited to a TEA DANCE ON THE PIER that will have food trucks and an open bar.
This annual weekend always ends with the fan favorite: THE SECOND LINE through the French Quarter with marching bands, dance groups and more! How can you resist?
VOODOO MUSIC + ARTS EXPERIENCE
This three-day event, which is commonly referred to as: Voodoo or Voodoo Fest is a multi-day music and arts festival that is held in City Park. It is held from Friday, October 25th to Sunday, October 27th.
This is the most significant Halloween tradition in New Orleans. Throughout its history, the event has featured more than 2,000 artists and hosted over one million visitors. The lineup has included stars such as: Marilyn Monroe, Pearl Jam, Metallica, Eminem, Red Hot Chili Peppers, Nine Inch Nails, KISS, Snoop Dog and many more. Local Louisiana musicians have also performed with these celebrities.
The Voodoo Music Experience currently has three areas: Le Ritual, Le Flambeau and Le Carnival. Each of them is meant to showcase different sides of New Orleans. Take a look:
(1) LE RITUAL features mainstream music while,
(2) LE FLAMBEAU is focused on the style of The Big Easy, and,
(3) LE CARNIVAL showcases indie bands and burlesque
Frankly, I think the whole thing sounds absolutely terrific. And so do many others: the festival has around 100,000 spectators every year. Yikes! You’d better plan ahead! How about booking rooms at Rathbone Mansion – an antebellum hotel you will love!
Shaun Nelson-Henrick
A Fast Look at Six NOLA Neighborhoods
The French Quarter is also called the Vieux Carré. This is the original city as planned by the French in the early eighteenth century. History seeps through the brick walls of the Quarter – which is heavy on tourists and light on locals.
The French Quarter is also called the Vieux Carré. This is the original city as planned by the French in the early eighteenth century. History seeps through the brick walls of the Quarter – which is heavy on tourists and light on locals.
FIRST: TOP SIGHTS IN THE FRENCH QUARTER
#1
JACKSON SQUARE is the anchor of the French Quarter and the beating heart of this corner of New Orleans (going forward we’ll say, NOLA which is used everywhere for expediency).
The stately St. Louis Cathedral in the heart of the city
#2
ST. LOUIS CATHEDRAL is still used for services and gets packed out on Christmas Eve at midnight mass. It is known as one of the most important – and beautiful – churches serving Catholics today.
#3
CABILDO This magnificent building is the former seat of power in Colonial Louisiana. It serves as the gateway for exploring the history of Louisiana and NOLA in particular.
#4
PRESBYTÈRE Visit a museum that is dedicated to contemporary Louisiana. You’ll find a wonderful permanent exhibit on Mardi Gras that explores the city’s most famous holiday.
#5
ROYAL STREET offers block after block of high-end antique shops and galleries. It’s the elegant YIN to the well-known YANG of the famous Bourbon Street.
SECOND: THE CBD AND WAREHOUSE DISTRICT
Canal Street is the “great divide” that splits the French Quarter from the Central Business District (CBD) and the Warehouse District. It stretches from the Superdome to the river.
#1
THE NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM drops one right into the action with wall-sized photos that capture the confusion of D-Day and offers riveting oral histories that reveal outstanding accounts of survival.
The Ogden Museum of Southern Art
#2
THE OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART is just steps from the WWI museum. This vibrant collection of Southern art is one of the most engaging art displays in NOLA.
THIRD: FAUBOURG MARIGNY & BYWATER
North of the Quarter is the Creole “faubourg” – literally suburb or neighborhood – an established area for gays, lesbians and successful creative types (artists, graphic designers and more). A top spot would be Frenchmen Street. CLICK HERE to see our blog.
FOURTH: LOWER GARDEN & CENTRAL CITY
Proceeding south along the Mississippi, following the curve of the river’s “U” – the streets become tree-lined and the houses considerably grander --this is the Garden and Lower Garden District. CLICK HERE to view our blog about Commander’s Palace – which is located here.
FIFTH: UPTOWN AND RIVERBEND
This is the area where American settlers decided to prove to the original French inhabitants that they could be as tasteful as any old-world aristocrat. Note: Magazine Street is one of the coolest strips of restaurants and shops in all of New Orleans. CLICK HERE to read more.
SIXTH: MID-CITY & THE TREMÉ
The lush greenery of City Park
This area includes the gorgeous green spaces of City Park and the elegant mansions of Esplanade Avenue where the two elegant Rathbone Mansions are located. CLICK HERE TO READ to read about City Park and our stylish, antebellum hotel.
We have done all the heavy lifting for you with this short-and-sweet list that you can read fast for a complete overview of one of our favorite cities in the whole world: New Orleans.
Shaun Nelson-Henrick
On the Calendar for October, PART 1
Here we are again! I can’t believe that a whole year has gone by. This takes us to the 30th year of the famous New Orleans Film Festival (NOFF) that draws participants from far and wide. I’m happy to report that attendance in 2018 was over 20,000 (including 170 filmmakers). Plus over 200 films were screened according to the festival organizers. Filmmakers and cinema fans enjoy a unique camaraderie at this event. They know that The Big Easy has a well-earned reputation for having fun or, “Let the Good Times Roll.” CLICK HERE to read our 2018 blog on this subject.
Here we are again! I can’t believe that a whole year has gone by. This takes us to the 30th year of the famous New Orleans Film Festival (NOFF) that draws participants from far and wide. I’m happy to report that attendance in 2018 was over 20,000 (including 170 filmmakers). Plus over 200 films were screened according to the festival organizers. Filmmakers and cinema fans enjoy a unique camaraderie at this event. They know that The Big Easy has a well-earned reputation for having fun or, “Let the Good Times Roll.” CLICK HERE to read our 2018 blog on this subject.
THE NEW ORLEANS FILM FESTIVAL
THE NOFF DATES for this year extend from Wednesday, October 16th to Thursday, October 24th. This event, which is hosted by the New Orleans Film Society, takes place at many theatres in the city. It also presents awards in seven different categories with prizes that include camera packages, software, film stock and cash.
THE ALL-ACCESS PASS is your best bet for the following (1) tickets to all festival screenings, (2) entry to all parties, receptions and events, and (3) exclusive access to the VIP lounge and special parties/events.
INDUSTRY PROFESSIONALS who attend this event include directors, producers, writers and actors. It also attracts film lovers (count me in) who are keen to see certain movies before their general release. In the past, these have included movies such as “Beasts of the Southern Wild.” When I read this my eyes widened because this film is one of my all-time favorites.
BEASTS OF THE SOUTHERN WILD
Initially, we weren’t really interested in seeing this film because of the title – which didn’t really say anything UNTIL one saw the movie. But, after reading that this 2012 American drama film directed, co-written and co-scored by Benh Zeitlin had garnered 93 awards and 127 nominations – we quickly changed our thinking. I have since watched it about eight times.
The opening of the film is electrifying and, if you haven’t seen it, make sure you do. The six-year-old star of the film, Quvenzhane Wallis was five when she auditioned for the starring role as “Hushpuppy” (with 4,000 other hopefuls). I watched her in an Oprah interview when she was eight and dutifully revealed this startling fact. She admitted that she was nervous after seeing the script because “I barely knew how to read.” This brought laughs from everyone: Oprah, the director and the actor (Dwight Henry) who played her father.
Until I did research for this blog I didn’t realize that the movie was shot in Montegut, Louisiana. Where on earth is that? Well, it sits in the bayou (named the fictional “Bathtub” in the film) and is a 90-minute drive southwest from New Orleans.
Three cheers for the youngest actress ever to win an Oscar plus a fantastic movie filmed in the great state of Louisiana!
THE 14TH ANNUAL CRESCENT CITY BLUES & BBQ FESTIVAL
THE DATES for this event are from Friday, October 18th to Sunday, October 20th.
LAFAYETTE SQUARE PARK is where you’ll find this fun festival. This square is the second-oldest public park in New Orleans (after Jackson Square) – and is located in the Central Business District at 602 Camp Street.
THIS EVENT SHOWCASES your favorite Southern foods as well as music presented on two stages. It also has a huge arts market featuring 22 top crafts vendors (painting, jewelry, photography and textiles) Admission: FREE! C’mon, get off your rocking chair and head out for a great time.
Shaun Nelson-Henrick
"The Devil Was Beating His Wife"
On a road trip down from Tennessee to the Gulf Coast, travel writer Kevin West spins a tale of discovery in his April 2019 article for Travel & Leisure magazine. He begins with six very provocative words: “The devil was beating his wife as I crossed the Alabama state line. I was driving from Nashville, in a hurry to reach Muscle Shoals, and I had gotten to the point where I-65 snakes down from middle Tennessee’s Highland Rim. When the highway levels out again and runs straight, you’re in the cotton-growing Heart of Dixie, as Alabama has been known since the 1950s.”
On a road trip down from Tennessee to the Gulf Coast, travel writer Kevin West spins a tale of discovery in his April 2019 article for Travel & Leisure magazine. He begins with six very provocative words: “The devil was beating his wife as I crossed the Alabama state line. I was driving from Nashville, in a hurry to reach Muscle Shoals, and I had gotten to the point where I-65 snakes down from middle Tennessee’s Highland Rim. When the highway levels out again and runs straight, you’re in the cotton-growing Heart of Dixie, as Alabama has been known since the 1950s.”
Local oysters at the Royal Oyster, in Gulf Shores – all photos courtesy of Travel & Leisure, April 2019
YES, IT’S SOUTHERN FOLKLORE
The title of this blog is the real deal. Or, as West explains, “The windshield wipers on my Kia “Soul” rental car (that’s what they call it) tried to keep pace with this August downpour. The sun broke through, but the rain never let up – in Southern folklore that’s the devil beating his wife.” I think that’s a saying for the ages.
ON TO MUSCLE SHOALS, ALABAMA
I definitely remember the first time I read the name “Muscle Shoals” – what in the world? What a great name! This spot wasn’t on West’s itinerary but, when he was in Nashville he heard that Aretha Franklin, the Queen of Soul had died, so he decided to stop at FAME Studios, where she made her career-defining hit record, “I Never Loved a Man the Way I Love You.”
THE STONES IN A HOTBED OF GREAT MUSIC
I came across this famous spot in Alabama while digging for info about the Rolling Stones. Fifty years ago (it was December 2-4, 1969) the Stones recorded three songs at this spot, namely: “Brown Sugar,” “Wild Horses” and “You Gotta Move.”
The group had a few days off during their U.S. tour so Keith Richards suggested they go to the studio. “It worked very well – it’s one of Keith’s things to go in and record while you’re in the middle of a tour and your playing is in good shape,” said Charlie Watts in the book “According to the Rolling Stones.” Note: the Stones are workaholics.
WHY ARE THE BRITS IN THE DEEP SOUTH?
The answer is very simple: this was a great studio to work in, a very hip place to be. On their first night, the Stones tracked “You Gotta Move,” a traditional spiritual number. On December 3rd, the band cut “Brown Sugar” written by Mick Jagger who would attribute the song’s sound to Muscle Shoals. “It was pretty funky,” he says. And Richards agrees, “We knew we had one of the best things we’d ever done.” “Wild Horses” was written on the spot. Bottom line: the Stones believe it was one of the easiest sessions they’d ever done. Chalk it all up to Muscle Shoals!
ON TO BIRMINGHAM, FOUNDED IN 1871
Downtown Birmingham on a quiet afternoon
This is considered a relatively new city. Its early iron and steel industries transformed the raw red-clay landscape so quickly that it earned the nickname Magic City. Over the years it sprouted skyscrapers, hotels, theatres and department stores.
A sign marking the spot where Rosa Park’s civil disobedience launched the Montgomery bus boycott
Of course, we all know about the civil rights movement and Alabama’s unfathomably painful past. Or, as Mayor Woodfin says, “Birmingham is unique in that we reckoned with our differences on the world stage. It happened in other cities, but here you saw it.”
CLICK HERE for “Way Down South” from “My Cousin Vinny”
Shaun Nelson-Henrick
It’s a Crocodile. No, It’s an Alligator!
August is a hot, take-it-easy month so I think it’s time to have some fun and take note of the rather exotic “flora and fauna” that exists in New Orleans and Louisiana (translation: plants and animals). I’m going to use the question-and-answer format to keep things simple.
August is a hot, take-it-easy month so I think it’s time to have some fun and take note of the rather exotic “flora and fauna” that exists in New Orleans and Louisiana (translation: plants and animals). I’m going to use the question-and-answer format to keep things simple.
WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A GATOR AND A CROC?
A gator is usually a blackish color and has a wider, but shorter, U-shaped nose/mouth. All of its upper teeth can be seen even when its mouth is shut. Their maximum length is around 14 ft. A croc’s front ends are more pointed and V-shaped. It can grow up to roughly 19 ft. If you take a swamp tour in NOLA you’ll see gators who love marshmallows. Crocs hang out in Florida – not here.
Swamp gators eating marshmallows in Louisiana
WHAT IS THE STATE FLOWER OF LOUISIANA?
The beautiful magnolia with its rich fragrance is the state flower. Come to New Orleans in the summer and you’ll see thousands of stately magnolia trees with large, creamy white blooms. Rainforest plants such as bamboo and banana trees are also plentiful. And dramatic, split-leaf philodendrons do well in our fair city (I love these guys – they give you “lots of bang for your buck.”)
The magnolia – the state flower of Louisiana
WHAT IS THE HIGHEST POINT IN NOLA – AND THE LOWEST?
Eighty-five-year-old Monkey Hill is the most famous hill in the city BUT the current HIGHEST point is actually “Laborde Mountain” in the 60-acre Couturie Forest in City Park. It is 43 ft. above sea level. The LOWEST point in all of Louisiana is in New Orleans: that’s 8 ft. below sea level.
WHAT IS THE WEATHER LIKE IN NEW ORLEANS?
This city has a warm climate with mild winters. During the summer the temperature can rise above 104° F. It can be very humid because of the amount of rain. June to November is hurricane season -- with the peak in late August and September. Note: this is not flora or fauna BUT everything is affected by the weather, so I’m including it.
WHAT TYPES OF BIRDS ARE FOUND IN LOUISIANA?
Elegant flamingoes strut their stuff
The list is endless – but let’s start with ducks, geese, swans, quails, wild turkeys, loons, flamingoes, herons, egrets, pelicans, vultures, ospreys, eagles and hawks – if it flies, you’ll find it in this state.
WHAT IS THE STATE TREE OF LOUISIANA?
Bald cypress in a swamp – this tree can live up to 600 years
The bald cypress was designated the official state tree in 1963. Where did it get its name? It is deciduous (this means it loses its needles in the autumn months) and has a “bald” appearance. It rises from the dark waters of the bayou (and usually has Spanish moss adorning it) -- where willows, maples and alders are also found.
WHAT FLOWERS LOVE TROPICAL WEATHER?
Tropical hibiscus, bird-of-paradise, bougainvillea and numerous gingers are grown for their beautiful, and often fragrant, flowers. Their extended bloom periods stretch through the summer months. And they keep on flowering no matter how hot it gets.
WHAT TYPE OF FISH WILL SPORT FISHERMEN FIND IN NOLA?
Deepwater fishing allows one to catch tuna, amberjack, snapper, grouper and more. You can also fish in City Park – all you need is a fishing license, pole, bait and patience. The Park’s waterways are teaming with a variety of fish: bass, sunfish, catfish and speckled trout (one of my favorites) – all are just waiting for you.
And let’s not forget the heart-stopping and majestic oak trees that one finds in New Orleans. Book your stay at Rathbone Mansion on Esplanade and you’ll see them every time you step out the door.
Shaun Nelson-Henrick
From Bourbon St. to Pirate's Alley PART TWO
Here are five more easy-to-find spots for drinking and fun in the famous Old Quarter of New Orleans.
1. CHART ROOM Come and enjoy yourself at a great bar. The Chart Room is located at 300 Chartres Street. It’s open from 11:00 am to 4:00 am. It has a historical patina on the walls, creaky furniture inside and outdoor seating for people watching. More directly, it’s a low-key, cash-only French Quarter bar that sports an old-school jukebox.
Here are five more easy-to-find spots for drinking and fun in the famous Old Quarter of New Orleans.
1. CHART ROOM Come and enjoy yourself at a great bar. The Chart Room is located at 300 Chartres Street. It’s open from 11:00 am to 4:00 am. It has a historical patina on the walls, creaky furniture inside and outdoor seating for people watching. More directly, it’s a low-key, cash-only French Quarter bar that sports an old-school jukebox.
Chart Room
A visitor from Texas had this to say about this famous dive bar. “We stumbled across this place on our first day and ended up going back every night. It’s a great place to meet locals as well as tourists.” And a traveler from the United Kingdom writes, “This is a gem of a bar in the French Quarter without FQ prices. I visited it six times.”
The glam French 75 bar on Bienville Street in New Orleans
2. FRENCH 75 is located at 813 Bienville Street and is open from 5:30 pm to 10:00 pm. Their bartenders have a life outside of work. This spot is all wood and patrician accents but the staff is friendly and down-to-earth. Cocktails at this bar start at $10.50 and go up. There’s a Jazz Brunch on Sundays from 10:00 am until 2:00 pm. The brunch menu looks terrific: Belgian waffles, turtle soup and shrimp bisque are offered as appetizers while entrees include: Eggs Benedict, ($33.50) and Omelette Au Fromage, ($34.00) that’s served with crunchy potato shoestrings. Everything sounds mouth-watering and delicious.
3. LAFITTE’S BLACKSMITH SHOP is right on Bourbon Street at 941 and it’s open from 10:30 am to 3:00 am. Do people really start drinking that early? I mean, aside from the actor Richard Burton who, I believe, died a happy man. This bar is a brick cottage that claims to be the oldest operating bar in the country. Rumor has it that this spot was once the workshop of pirate Jean Lafitte and his brother, Pierre.
Here’s a to-the-point comment from a Kentucky visitor who sums up Lafitte’s very well. “Nice place to grab a drink in a bar that’s historic – has lots of wood and stone. It’s dark at night; no food is served – probably a smart choice for all.
Cane & Table Bar
4. CANE & TABLE bar is the second one on our list that’s on Decatur – it’s at 1113 and is open from 5:00 pm to 11:00 pm Monday to Thursday and to midnight on Friday and Saturday. C&T offers a romantically faded interior and an outdoor courtyard. The bar serves “proto-tiki” cocktails that the owner defines as “the tropical cocktail culture before the heyday of Don the Beachcomber in 1934.” This tells me nothing.
“The ribs were spectacular” according to one diner. “Some people may have a stroke when they read $17 for six baby ribs – but, trust me, they are a must-try. I just reviewed the drinks menu. Sorry, I still don’t get the proto-tiki reference – totally escapes me.
The Carousel Bar in the famous Hotel Monteleone, a New Orleans historic icon since 1886 – the adjoining room has booths, tables and live entertainment
5. THE CAROUSEL BAR is at 214 Royal Street and is open from 11:00 am until “late” – which doesn’t tell you much. This is a smart-looking spot inside the historic Monteleone (a luxury hotel that is one of the last great family-owned-and-operated hotels in New Orleans). The hotel has been in business since 1886. Five generations of the family have dedicated themselves to making their hotel what it was – and still is – a sparkling jewel in the heart of the French Quarter.
The Carousel Bar is the only revolving bar in New Orleans – but don’t worry, it only rotates once every 15 minutes
A Seattle, Washington visitor gives an excellent description of this bar. “This ‘circus ride theme’ bar is inside the Monteleone Hotel. While sitting at the bar, your seat AND the bar top rotate slowly around the bar – all the bartenders remain stationary. What a hoot! A tourist from Florida describes the drinks as “good and strong plus the bartenders are very attentive.” A New Yorker (naturally) says, “Go during down times or you’ll find a line of folks who want to sit at the moving bar.” I laughed when I read this – it’s something I would say. Us Manhattan guys are very big on SPEED. No waiting for us!
Between last week’s blog and this one you should have a good idea of where to go for drinks in the French Quarter. CLICK HERE to take a gander at Part 1.
Shaun Nelson-Henrick
From Bourbon St. to Pirate’s Alley PART ONE
Here are five easy-to-find spots for drinking and more in the famous Old Quarter of New Orleans.
1. TONIQUE located at 820 N. Rampart Street, is open from noon to 2:00 am. This spot is described as “a bartender’s bar” because rumor has it that – on a Sunday night – bartenders go there to unwind. One patron says, “My favorite bar in New Orleans – it’s a “hipster” fancy cocktail bar. They have a Happy Hour every day that features a specific drink for $5.00. I always have a Pimm’s Cup or a Moscow Mule when I visit New Orleans and both are the best I’ve ever tasted anywhere. It’s right across from the Louis Armstrong Park.
Here are five easy-to-find spots for drinking and more in the famous Old Quarter of New Orleans.
1. TONIQUE located at 820 N. Rampart Street, is open from noon to 2:00 am. This spot is described as “a bartender’s bar” because rumor has it that – on a Sunday night – bartenders go there to unwind. One patron says, “My favorite bar in New Orleans – it’s a “hipster” fancy cocktail bar. They have a Happy Hour every day that features a specific drink for $5.00. I always have a Pimm’s Cup or a Moscow Mule when I visit New Orleans and both are the best I’ve ever tasted anywhere. It’s right across from the Louis Armstrong Park.
2. MOLLY’S AT THE MARKET can be found at 1107 Decatur Street. It’s open from 10:00 am to 6:00 am and is an excellent neighborhood bar that is also the home of a fat cat, frozen or hot Irish coffees and an urn that has the ashes of the bar’s founder. A tourist from Iowa City says, “Come for the frozen Irish coffee, stay for the people watching. This is a dive bar through and through – but they make a great drink. It also has a photo booth if you need to capture a few memories.”
3. COSIMO’S is situated at 1201 Burgundy Street and is open from 4:00 pm to 2:00 am Monday and Tuesday; then to 5:00 am on Wednesday to Friday – followed by 2:00 pm to 5:00 am Saturday. Then 2:00 pm to 2 am on Sunday. How do the bartenders keep all this stuff straight?
This is another “neighborhood bar” that sports dark wood, big windows, gambling machines, a good jukebox, pool tables and bartenders who are described as “tender and tough.” And, of course, they’re all math lovers – they have to be to keep all those hours straight.
4. BEACHBUM BERRY’S LATITUDE 29 is a 321 N. Peters Street. You’ll find it open from 3:00 pm to 11:00 pm Sunday to Thursday and 11:00 am to 11:00 pm on Friday and Saturday. If a drink has rum it’s served in a faux-Polynesian cup or comes with an umbrella. Full disclosure: I love those little booze umbrellas – I taped one on the outside of a nicely wrapped Xmas gift. The recipient was 10-years-old and his father had to explain. A bit of a faux pas on my part.
One visitor had this to say, “My boyfriend is into “tiki bars” so this bar was our first stop in New Orleans. I ordered a Missionary’s Downfall and he ordered a Puka Punch – both were very strong and refreshing. This is an excellent bar. If and when we’re back in New Orleans, I’m definitely going to order another Pontchartrain Pearl Diver.
5. ERIN ROSE This bar is only a block from Bourbon Street – you’ll find it at 811 Conti Street. I can’t find their “open” hours. Maybe the staff never goes home. The word on the street is that few tourists go here. Instead it’s a go-to cheap spot for off-shift service folks. It also serves excellent po’boy sandwiches. It gets my vote.
Well, guess what? I finally found “the hours” and this is what it says, “Open 21 hours a day starting at 10:00 am.” Good heavens! I wasn’t too far off when I said, “Maybe they never go home.” The headline for the write-up I finally found says, “Local Prices. Local Chaos. Local Love.” The copy reads: Erin Rose bar is a casual meeting place where locals, artists, musicians and tourists mingle in a relaxed atmosphere. And, best of all, Erin Rose is just a few feet off Bourbon.
Now, I’m reading their prices and I’m in shock (I live in NYC: one of the most expensive cities in the country). Here are Erin Rose’s drink specials, served daily from 10:00 am to 2:00 pm (1) Mimosas, $3.00, (2) Screwdrivers, $3.00, (3) House Bloody Marys, $4.00, (4) Frozen Irish Coffee, $3.50 and (5) Hot Irish Coffee, $4.00.
NOTE: Pirate’s Alley is one block long – it extends from Chartres Street at Jackson Square to Royal Street.
NEXT WEEK WE’LL HAV FIVE MORE SPOTS FOR YOU TO REVIEW
Shaun Nelson-Henrick
It's Tea Time in Tennessee
Is anything more civilized than afternoon tea? Here are four tea spots in Tennessee that you may want to look into at some point. Why am I writing about Tennessee? Well, I found there were 16 states in the U.S. that are considered “Southern” so I want to write about each one – in addition to New Orleans.
Is anything more civilized than afternoon tea? Here are four tea spots in Tennessee that you may want to look into at some point. Why am I writing about Tennessee? Well, I found there were 16 states in the U.S. that are considered “Southern” so I want to write about each one – in addition to New Orleans.
The front cover of the May/June 2019 issue of Tea Time magazine
I came across an article in a January 2019 magazine that I picked up by accident. It is titled Tea Time and bills itself as “North America’s #1 Tea Magazine.” Every issue of this publication devotes itself to “tea.” I just have one question: how many magazines only focus on tea? Maybe if you’re the ONLY one – you can say “you’re #1.” Who knows?
MCMINNVILLE, TENNESSEE: Between Nashville & Chattanooga
Why not stop for tea in McMinnville (population: 13,662 in 2017) at the Falcon Rest Mansion & Garden for a trip back in time? This is the Victorian home (circa 1896) of George McGlothin and his wife, Charlien that includes a tearoom. One can enjoy a formal Victorian tea of homemade cinnamon cream scones, fresh fruit, an assortment of petite tea sandwiches, a variety of sweets and a pot of tea – all for $15.00. Reservations for tea are required at least 24 hours in advance. Falcon Rest is open daily from 9:00 am to 5:00 pm.
Falcon Rest Mansion & Garden is located at 2645 Faulkner Springs Road in McMinnville, Tennessee – photo courtesy of Tea Time magazine
BELL BUCKLE, TENNESSEE: An hour outside of Nashville
A green-and-white building with a red roof houses the Southern Charm Gift Shop & Tea Room. It will allow you to sip a glass of sweetened iced tea and shop for treasures as well. This whimsically named hamlet, hidden in the lush, undulating countryside, is just an hour outside of Nashville. Bell Buckle’s population was 532 in 2017.
“The sheer excitement of the idea of a tearoom brings people to us,” says owner, Beth Sulcer. Afternoon tea, which costs $15 per person, includes a fresh scone, an assortment of savory canapés and six desserts – all of which are prepared daily. The tearoom also serves lunch and is open from 11:00 am to 3:00 pm, Tuesday through Saturday.
FRANKLIN, TENNESSEE: Twenty miles south of downtown Nashville
Jenny Zhong at Music City Tea located at 1113 Murfreesboro Road in Franklin, Tennessee – photo courtesy of Tea Time
When owner Jinlan (Jenny) Zhong moved to the U.S. over 10 years ago and brought a suitcase full of tea and wares from China. “I found no tea shops,” she remembers. “All I could find was sweet iced tea. I said to myself, “This country needs a tea shop.” So she opened one.
In addition to the more than 200 teas sold in the store, Jenny offers free tea tastings. Some of the most popular teas are: Pu-erh, oolong and ginger-lemon tea. Customers can also schedule a private traditional Chinese tea ceremony for $9.00 per person that includes: unlimited tea tasting, Chinese fare and green tea cake. Music City Tea is open from 10:00 am to 6:00 pm Monday through Saturday.
NASHVILLE, TENNESSEE: In the evolving 12 South neighborhood
The city of Nashville in Central Tennessee – photo courtesy of Tea Time
“From the very beginning,” says Sarah Scarborough, “the mission of Firepot Nomadic Teas was to connect tea lovers and tea growers to improve the lives of both. And we’ve been able to do that in many ways, with ethical and and organic sourcing and donating a portion of our profits to Women in Wildlife.”
The interior décor of her tea bar reflects the souks of Morocco. While chai is Firepot’s signature drink, loose-leaf teas and blends are available for purchase, along with sundry tea wares. The tea bar is open from 10:00 am to 6:00 pm Tuesday through Sunday. Firepot Nomadic Teas are sold in a number of stores throughout the U.S. as well as online.
Shaun Nelson-Henrick
What's Happening in September?
I’ve always loved the month of September because there’s lots of action. The weather is usually perfect and the kids are really excited about going back to school and seeing all their friends again. It’s also a great time to travel to New Orleans. My husband Peter and I visited late in the month of September and it was still hot – but not stultifying – so we had a marvelous time and made great use of New Orleans famous go-cups (nothing like that in stuffy old NYC).
I’ve always loved the month of September because there’s lots of action. The weather is usually perfect and the kids are really excited about going back to school and seeing all their friends again. It’s also a great time to travel to New Orleans. My husband Peter and I visited late in the month of September and it was still hot – but not stultifying – so we had a marvelous time and made great use of New Orleans famous go-cups (nothing like that in stuffy old NYC).
FOOTBALL SEASON KICKS OFF
The 2019 NFL season begins on Thursday, September 5th and ends on Sunday, December 29th. I know very little about football so I thought, for this blog, I’d write a bit about the history of the hometown team: the New Orleans Saints (I love this name).
WHAT’S IN A NAME?
Now, don’t laugh, but the first time I heard the name I thought it was a “play on words” – meaning: someone probably said, “Well, none of those tough guys are saints” – hence the team name was born. I couldn’t be more wrong.
Here’s what really happened: The National Football League awarded its 16th franchise to New Orleans on November 1, 1966, which was All Saints Day. In mid-December, 28-year-old John Mecom Jr., a wealthy Texan became the majority stockholder and, on January 9, 1967 the team was named the “Saints.”
The Saints literally took “The City That Care Forgot” by storm. They won five of their six pre-season games and opened the regular season on September 17, 1967 against the Los Angeles Rams before a packed house of 80,879 in Tulane Stadium. The Saints made each home game a special event, a so-called “Mardi Gras in Autumn” with cheerleaders, jazz bands and precision-marching routines by high school and college bands. In 1975 they moved from Tulane Stadium to the 69,056-seat Mercedes-Benz Superdome located at 1500 Sugar Bowl Drive in New Orleans. Finally, in 2010 the team won Super Bowl XLIV (44) when they defeated the Indianapolis Colts.
NOW, LET’S MOVE ON TO “RESTAURANT WEEK”
This year, Restaurant Week in New Orleans runs from Monday, September 9th to Sunday, September 15th. This means that, for one week in the fall, some of the best restaurants in New Orleans will offer diners about 25% off their prix-fixe menus. We have a “Restaurant Week” in New York City also but I’ve never participated – frankly, I don’t know why. I just haven’t.
THE NATIONAL FRIED CHICKEN FEST
Digging into crispy fried chicken is what everyone loves to do
This is a free 2019 event that will take place in Woldenberg Park (located on the banks of the Mississippi River at One Canal Street) on September 21 and 22, from 11:00 am to 9:00 pm. Participants can experience two full days of fried chicken, live music, a cooking demo area and fried chicken contests.
THE WILDLY POPULAR “SIPS OF SUMMER”
In 2019 Commander’s Palace (in the Garden District) is back for the third year with its wine events that are listed right into January 2020. I think the best approach here is to give you the link so you can explore all these fun experiences and see which ones strike your fancy. CLICK HERE for lots of info.
CLICK HERE to read our blog about Commander’s Palace located at 1403 Washington Avenue.
SO WHAT ELSE IS SHAKIN’ IN NEW ORLEANS? Our brand new airport terminal, a $993.7 million project with 35 gates and a spanking new 2,100-space parking garage is a real eye-opener that’s scheduled to be up and running by the end of 2019.
Shaun Nelson-Henrick