Ahead: Halloween and Voodoo

Come to New Orleans to celebrate October 31st and you’ll see this special date like you’ve never seen it before. Halloween is second only to Mardi Gras for being wild and crazy – for everyone – that includes gay/straight adults and the little ones. Okay, kids of all ages, from the smallest trick-or-treaters to the biggest party monsters.

 THE MOST HAUNTED CITY IN AMERICA

NOLA is widely known as the most haunted city in the entire country because it is so rich in “haunted” history. Which brings us to this: you may want to start by going on a haunted tour in the French Quarter or even take a cemetery tour. To help you decide CLICK HERE for our detailed description of the cemetery tours.

 WE HAVE A NUMBER OF VOODOO SHOPS

Check them out and learn more about the history behind these centuries-old spiritual practices. The spirit of Marie LaVeau, who is known as the Voodoo Queen of New Orleans still lingers and the crypt where she’s buried is believed to be the most haunted cemetery in America. People leave candles, flowers and Voodoo dolls on her grave and make a wish on her tomb – if it comes true they return and leave three “X” marks as a sign of their gratitude.  

AND YES, YOU’LL FIND COSTUME SHOPS

We all know that Halloween is more fun if you dress up. You can get everything from cat ears and vampire fangs to over-the-top outfits with feather boas. Go for it. Why? Because once you’re in costume you’ll be welcome at an open party or bar that’s into the spirit of Halloween. CLICK HERE for a list of costume and mask shops

HEAD FOR ONE OF THE BIGGEST STREET PARTIES

The LGBT community is out in full regalia on Bourbon and St. Ann streets in the heart of the French Quarter. Elaborate costumes, drinking and dancing go into this festive celebration – with the proceeds going to Project Lazarus – a home in New Orleans for people living with AIDS.

 FAMILY FRIENDLY HALLOWEEN IN NEW ORLEANS

If you’re looking for something for the kids, check out “Boo at the Zoo” that is held at the Audubon Zoo located at 6500 Magazine Street. You find an evening with entertainment, food, trick-or-treating, fun rides and a haunted house. It also gives the little ones a chance to get up close and personal with some of the more friendly animals at the zoo.

WHY NOT GET IN THE MOOD FOR YOUR OCTOBER TRIP? 

Nothing gets one thinking about a town faster than hearing a song about it. Why do you think they play Frank Sinatra’s New York, New York every New Year’s Eve after the ball drops in Times Square? Why does Tony Bennett singing I Left My Heart in San Francisco always bring back memories?

Here’s my suggestion: if you want to get in the mood for your trip to The Big Easy why not listen to The City of New Orleans? It’s a great folk song that was written by Steve Goodman. It describes a train ride from Chicago to New Orleans via the Illinois Central Railroad in bittersweet and nostalgic terms. Goodman got the idea while traveling on the train itself.

This song was a hit for Arlo Guthrie on his 1972 album Hobo’s Lullaby. It has since been done by: Willie Nelson, John Denver, Johnny Cash, Judy Collins, Chet Atkins, Hank Snow and others. CLICK HERE FOR THE SONG AND THE LYRICS

Shaun Nelson-Henrick

What’s Coming in October?

I’ve always loved the month of September. I’ve always felt that September kicks off the New Year – rather than the traditional January 1st. I suppose this comes from being in school for so many years.

Let’s take a look at what’s ahead this fall because, as everyone knows, New Orleans is a town that loves over-the-top action in the form of different types of festivals, special holidays and joyful parades with music and lots of enthusiastic dancin’ and prancin’.

Take a look at what’s coming down the pike.

THE CRESCENT CITY BLUES & BBQ FESTIVAL

This festival takes place in Lafayette Square Park located at 540 St. Charles Avenue. It is the second-oldest public park in New Orleans (after Jackson Square) and is elegantly described as “a prized greenspace in the heart of the Central Business District.”  

Mark your calendar for a fun time of blues and barbecue from Friday, October 12th to Sunday, October 14th. This is the 13th time this annual FREE event is being held. You’ll hear the best in local and national blues plus great R&B talent, while feasting on amazing barbecue and browsing at a large crafts fair. There’s definitely something for everyone.

THE NEW ORLEANS FILM FESTIVAL (NOFF)

Now in its 29th year, this festival has grown into an internationally respected annual event. It has been described by MovieMaker magazine as “One of the 25 Coolest Film Festivals in the World.”

I decided to see for myself what this magazine had to say. My goodness, it’s pretty laudatory and worth repeating. Take a look at the their comments about the NOLA film festival.

“There is no other city quite like New Orleans. With that in mind, you might think that NOFF would get lost in the mix. ‘Not so,’ says one of the panelists. ‘The festival is in the middle of everything. It’s very much folded into the city. There’s food, film and music all within a few blocks.’”

That energy bubbles up with fantastic nightly parties, celebrity visitations and very little pretense. ‘There’s nothing like riding a streetcar to see your film. And, since it’s New Orleans, their after-parties raise the bar for film festivals everywhere.’”

Pretty cool stuff or, as Keith Richards would say, “If you gotta think about being cool, you ain’t cool.”

THEATRES AROUND THE CITY WILL SCREEN THE WORK OF BOTH LOCAL AND INTERNATIONALLY RENOWNED FILMMAKERS FROM WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 17TH TO THURSDAY, OCTOBER 25th.

* * * * * * *

Why Not Cross – Or Go Up – the Mississippi While You’re Here?

You can board the Algiers Ferry, which has been in operation since 1827, at the foot of Canal Street, right next to the Aquarium of the Americas. This is your chance to see the French Quarter and the New Orleans skyline from the water. It is also a pleasant way to see Algiers Point, a neighborhood with a laid-back feel. The roundtrip takes less than an hour and costs $2.00. This is for pedestrians and bikers only. If you’re traveling by car you can park in one of the nearby lots. CLICK HERE if you’re interested in taking a riverboat cruise up the Mississippi.

The Algiers ferry has been in operation since 1827

Shaun Nelson-Henrick

“A Ham Hock Don’t Call for Help”

This hilarious quote appears in the recently published book by Pulitzer Prize-winning author Rick Bragg titled, The Best Cook in the World: Tales from My Momma’s Table. It comes from two little hellions talking about whether to steal a ham hock or a live chicken and, ultimately one clinches it by saying, “Well, a ham hock don’t call for help.”

Rick Bragg, born on July 26, 1959

This 485-page tome, published by Alfred A. Knopf, New York in 2018 is a terrific read. I discovered this author in the nineties when he wrote All Over But the Shoutin’ – a marvelous record of his childhood in Alabama that was harrowing, cruel – and yet triumphant.  

This book was published in 1997 and is the story of Rick’s mother, Margaret Bragg, who went 18 years without a new dress so that her sons, Sam, Rick and Mark could have school clothes

The Best Cook in the World is a delectable, rollicking food memoir, cookbook (over 70 recipes) plus a loving tribute to the South and its vanishing history. Talkin’ ain’t seein’ so I’m going to quote directly from this must-read book.

MOMMA’S COOKING

“She never used a cookbook, not in her whole life. She never cooked from a written recipe of any kind, and never wrote down one of her own. She cooked with ghosts at her sure right hand, and you can believe that or not. The people who taught her the secrets of Southern, blue-collar cooking are all gone now, and they did not cook from a book, either; most of them did not even know how to read and write.”

Rick Bragg’s mother, Margaret (right) as a young girl, with her sister, Juanita – photo courtesy of Southern Living, May 2018

PLAIN FOOD, WELL SEASONED

“In a South that no longer seems to remember its heart, our food may be the best part left. There is a reason why many black Southerners – and some white ones, like my mother – still call this kind of cooking soul food, because it transcends the pain and struggle of the everyday, a richness for a people without riches.”

Delicious ham hock and cabbage soup

FARM-TO-TABLE?

“My mother laughed out loud when she first heard the term ‘farm-to-table.’ They had it in her day, too; they called it a flatbed truck. She knows her food is not the healthiest, yet her people live long, long lives; those not killed by gunfire, moonshine or machines.

A WELL-EQUIPPED KITCHEN

“Momma does not own a measuring cup. She does not own a measuring spoon. She cooks in dabs, and smidgens, and tads, and a measurement she mysteriously refers to as ‘you know, hon, just some.’ She does not own a mixer or a blender. There is a 40-year-old lopsided sifter for her flour, and a hand-cranked can opener.

The recipes in the book are a marvel of directness and simplicity. I think there’s a lesson to be learned here. On page 89 there’s one for “Cornbread” that starts with a seven-line description. This leads to: WHAT YOU WILL NEED and lists six ingredients. The HOW TO COOK IT is last.

Every recipe is set up like this and I love it. Do you know how many recipes I’ve passed by the minute I see 10 or more ingredients? On page 116 there’s one for “Chicken Gravy” and on the next page there’s another for “Mashed Potatoes” where she puts (aside from salt, milk, butter) a teaspoon of mayonnaise in. Since I’m always making mashed potatoes with salt/milk/butter – and consider adding finely chopped chives the height of culinary creativity – I will definitely put the mayo in.  

You’ll find Rick Bragg’s books on Amazon – great to take on a trip.  

COMING TO VISIT US AT RATHBONE?

To get in the mood for New Orleans CLICK HERE to listen to “The House of the Rising Sun” by The Animals. 

Bob Dylan recorded this song, but The Animals made it a worldwide phenomenon. Then Martin Scorsese used it in his movie Casino for a ‘wow’ ending. No one knows who wrote it, but everyone including me, seems to love it. 

Shaun Nelson-Henrick

Feast and Frolic in Four Fun Spots

Let’s take a look at four eateries you may want to look into when you pay a visit to The Crescent City. The first is called TWELVE MILE LIMIT and is located at 500 S. Telemachus Street.

I was intrigued by the descriptions that I read of this place. One said, “a dog-friendly bar” while another described it as an “easygoing watering hole with a pool table (that’s always a good draw) a juke box and great barbecue. One diner said, “The brisket was the best I’ve had in a long time (made me miss my mama).”

Another write-up described Twelve Mile Limit as a “funky hipster bar with a dive vibe and comfort food. Be sure to try the doberge cake.” Stop right now: this is about the sixth time I’ve seen this cake mentioned and I still don’t have the slightest idea what it is.

Here’s a pretty good description: it’s based on the Hungarian Dobos torte (pronounced DO-BASH). It was developed in New Orleans and is now a staple throughout Louisiana. One enthusiast described it this way: it’s a multi-layered cake with pastry cream inside and a poured glaze on the outside. Traditional flavors are chocolate, lemon and caramel. I’m salivating as I’m typing this.   

I also laughed when I read the name of one of their drinks. It’s called “Charlie Don’t Surf” which is the famous line said by Robert Duvall in the movie Apocalypse Now by Francis Ford Coppola.

Oh yes, Monday they serve free dinners – usually a poor man’s meal: red beans and rice. In the past, Monday was washday so a pot of red beans would go on the stove with the hambone from Sunday’s dinner. By the time the wash was finished, dinner was ready.   

Now, let’s move on to MID-CITY ROCK ‘N’ BOWL, located at 3000 S. Carrollton Avenue. There is no other place in New Orleans (or elsewhere) quite like Rock ‘n’ Bowl. It has: #1 bowling lanes with a bar, #2 Creole-inspired eats, #3 live music by local legends and #4 a dance floor – what a mix! But it all adds up to a lotta fun.

The drinks are good and so are the delicious Mozzarella sticks and chicken wings – a good match with booze. The service at the bar can be really speedy because, as one tourist notes, “When we were there folks were dancing, not drinking. I’ve heard about this place for years. They have great Cajun music – there’s a real family vibe as dancers of all ages stomp and spin to the music.”

Another says, “We stopped by on a Thursday for Zydeco night. It is exactly what all the reviewers say, ‘You’re in for a great time’ – and then we bowled at 10 pm (only $24 for an hour on a lane).  So go and enjoy. You won’t regret it.”  

Now it’s time to look at a very good lunch spot. LIL’ DIZZY’S CAFÉ is at 1500 Esplanade Avenue (just two blocks from Rathbone Mansions) and is described as a no-frills joint for soul-food breakfasts and lunches.

One recent diner notes, “This place is known for its buffet which includes fried chicken (crispy, moist and just right), cornbread, collard greens, red beans and rice, seafood gumbo and a really delicious banana bread pudding.” Lil’ Dizzy’s makes everything in-house.

** Sadly, our beloved Lil’ Dizzy’s will not be reopening after the COVID-19 pandemic.

And now we’re on to our last eatery, which is CAJUN SEAFOOD that you’ll find at 1479 N. Claiborne Avenue. This place is basically a grocery store takeout spot. It’s known as a casual place with no service but great food. Or, as one satisfied customer relates, “The snow crabs were delicious, crawfish was perfectly seasoned – but my absolute favorite were the fried chicken wings.

There may be a night when you’d rather pick up something delicious and bring it back to Rathbone – this little joint just may be the place for you.

Shaun Nelson-Henrick

The Lure of the Mighty Mississippi

I wrote my senior thesis at Columbia on Mark Twain and the Mississippi. The professor set up a writing schedule that went on endlessly – and that I’ve never used since – for obvious reasons. We were instructed to write one short section at a time and then schedule a meeting so he could critique each one as the project moved along over the entire semester.

A riverboat on the Mississippi River

The paper received an “A” but I can’t remember a thing about the subject matter because I was so totally bored with the whole tortuous, paint-by-numbers routine. The outcome? I became more interested in the Mississippi than Mark Twain himself.

Mark Twain’s famous book was made into a movie

THE RIVER IS SPELLBINDING

When Peter and I visited New Orleans I made sure that our hotel was right on the Mississippi and high up so we could see everything. What astounded me more than anything was the ceaseless river traffic – there was a constant churning of every type of riverboat, cargo ship, towboat and barge one could imagine. Pure theatre!

THE CITY AND THE RIVER

New Orleans is one of the oldest cities in America. It boasts a 300-year history that’s unlike any other city in America. The Louisiana Purchase (1803) was a $15 million land deal between the United States and France that doubled the size of America. Its main purpose was to secure New Orleans and its port. Smart move.

HOW LONG IS THE RIVER?

§  The Mississippi twists its way from northern Minnesota to New Orleans through the heartland, growing considerably wider (and browner) the farther south one goes

§  It also lies in ten states: Louisiana, Mississippi, Arkansas, Tennessee, Kentucky, Missouri, Illinois, Iowa, Wisconsin and Minnesota

§  This is a distance of 2,320 miles (3,730 km) and is slightly shorter than the Missouri River

§  The Mississippi and Missouri Rivers form the longest river system in North America. It is also the fourth longest in the world

THE RIVER MADE MARK TWAIN

No novelist captured the muddy waterway and its people like this famous author who’s real name was Samuel Clemens. He created a pen name, Mark Twain, which is a riverboat term measuring two fathoms (12 ft.) the safe depth for a steamboat.

He was born on November 30, 1835 in Florida, Missouri and worked as a printer, steamboat pilot and miner until he became a full-time journalist and went on to publish several novels, including two major classics of American literature, The Adventures of Tom Sawyer (published in 1876 or 142 years ago) and The Adventures of Huckleberry Finn (published in 1884 or 134 years ago). Both are still in print and available on Amazon.

COMING SOON: SOUTHERN DECADENCE -- 8/30 TO 9/3

LGBT Mardi Gras – awards are given for Best Leather, Best Drag, Best Group and Best Overall Costume

This is one of the largest annual celebrations in New Orleans and has become known as the “Gay Mardi Gras.” In 2017, over 210,000 gay, lesbian, bisexual and transgender folks attended this event. Most street parties take place close to the French Quarter. The gay bars never close. The Bourbon Street Extravaganza is a free outdoor concert at the corner of Bourbon and St. Ann – it will be returning in 2018 for its 14th Anniversary Show on Saturday, 9/1.  Come and join in the fun. CLICK HERE for a free New Orleans Guidebook.

Shaun Nelson-Henrick

Great Day Trip: a Plantation

If you’re itching for a break from the wild energy of New Orleans then its time to visit Oak Alley Plantation that is often referred to as “The ‘Grande Dame’ of the Great Louisiana River Road. We toured this place and were immediately stunned by its spectacular beauty.

Oak Alley is kept in perfect order every day of the year

It was built in 1839 and was originally named Bon Séjour (pleasant sojourn). There is a quarter-mile avenue of 28 giant, live oaks leading up to this Greek Revival-style mansion, which led to the new name of Oak Alley. When you step inside you’ll be struck (as my husband Peter and I were) by the gracious interiors: gleaming hardwood floors and shimmering chandeliers. 

The spectacular Oak Alley Plantation in Louisiana

Another remarkably well-maintained estate you may want to visit is the Laura Plantation. The French-descended Deparc family founded this plantation in 1804 and lived there for four generations. Laura, a family member, wrote a detailed memoir that offers insights into what life was like in the Antebellum South. By the way, this plantation is where the original Br’er Rabbit stories were recorded – passed down from the oral tradition of former slaves.

The Big House at the Laura Plantation

Like many of the tours that are offered in New Orleans you’ll find there are many different options for you to choose from. For example, you can elect to sign up for the Oak Alley Plantation by itself. Or, you can do “Both Oak Ally and Laura Plantations” in one tour. Keep in mind, these outings take a certain amount of energy – make sure you’re up for whatever you choose.

I noticed that one tour says, “Our combo tour is this: we will pick you up, drive to Oak Alley where you will tour the grounds and house. Then we’ll drive you to Laura where you will tour the house, grounds and slave cabins – after this, we’ll bring you back to the French Quarter.” Sounds pretty good to me.

Moving on, here’s a second option you might want to consider, “Airboat Tour and Single Plantation Combo Tour” CLICK HERE to read last week’s blog about swamp tours via airboats.

Here you’ll have even more options: (1) A medium airboat combo with 16 seats, (2) a small airboat combo with six seats, or (3) a pontoon boat that seats more people as compared to airboats.

Now, since we’re on the subject of “water” let’s take a look at one of Louisiana’s last preserved wetlands via a two-hour Honey Island Swamp Boat Tour. After a short drive to Slidell (a suburb of New Orleans on the north shore of Lake Pontchartrain) you’ll travel deep into a secluded swamp to view native wildlife and see a remote Cajun village that’s only accessible by boat.

Honey Island Swamp, a wildlife preserve, is one of the last protected wetlands in Louisiana. This tour offers a more intimate experience as the boat quietly winds through narrow swamp passages. You’ll get great photos as you learn more about the famous regional alligators who can tip the scales at a thousand lbs. Yikes!

Frankly, I’d like to sign up for this tour myself – right now! One enthusiast had this to say, “My family and I liked and appreciated everything about this tour. We saw all the wildlife promised – plus so much more! Jewel, our tour guide, was witty, funny and had a wealth of knowledge. I highly recommend him!”

And there you have it. Now, you can go back to Rathbone, pour yourself a drink and regale everyone with tales of Maurice, the bon vivant alligator who looked up and winked at you.

CLICK HERE to hear “Just a Closer Walk with Thee” played by Tuba Skinny on Royal Street in New Orleans.

Shaun Henrick

A Swamp Tour?

Moi!

No Way.

C’mon, you’re in New Orleans and you’re here to have fun. Picture yourself in an airboat with the wind in your hair and going faster on the water than you’ve ever imagined.  

An airboat swamp tour and a gator getting a quick snack

When my husband and I did this tour we had no idea what to expect. Neither of us had ever been on an airboat so we were a bit nervous. Trust me, within 15 seconds we were completely won over. Yes, an airboat is noisy. There’s a large, caged propeller on the back. But airboats are the best way to travel when the water is too shallow for a standard submerged propeller engine.

If it rains you’ll get soaked and, of course, the sun will be beating down BUT airboats are like hovercrafts – they’re on the surface of the water. They can even go over mud. And they’ll take you places that the bigger pontoon boats can’t reach. However, if you feel strongly about a quieter experience there are tours with pontoons that float silently and have protection from the sun and rain – just look on the web for a tour that suits you, your friends and your family.

On the tour we took, there was no feeding of the alligators. But this seems to have changed – apparently gators have decided (like humans) that marshmallows are a great dessert. I accidentally came across a write-up by a visitor who said, “We got to meet a baby gator, named Fluffy” (whoever named this little critter needs new glasses). I think I would pass on this experience. Not for myself – but for poor Fluffy, who was probably scared stiff.

A gator getting a marshmallow dessert at the end of a string that’s on a stick held by a guy (gals don’t do this crazy stuff)

When you decide to go on a swamp or bayou tour you’ll find lots of choices as far as the length of the tour, e.g., two hours, four hours, a half-day, full day and more. There are also different ways to get to your tour, e.g., meet at a spot in the French Quarter, go for a hotel “pickup and drop-off” and many other choices. Take time to read carefully and make sure you get what’s best for you.

A baby alligator  (Fluffy? Gimme a break!)

 A LITTLE AIRBOAT HISTORY

We’ll keep this short. The very first airboat registered in America was in Florida in the 1920s – they were brought in as a means of navigating shallow waters in the Florida Everglades so people could fish and hunt.

WHAT WILL YOU SEE ON YOUR TOUR?

Oh my, this is an impressive list. Let’s start with the wildlife: alligators, (not Fluffy, she’s taken to drink), raccoons, river rodents (nutria), pelicans, owls, turtles, wild boar, snakes and egrets. Then there’s the scenery itself: lush greenery, Spanish moss hanging from Cypress trees and, depending on the type of tour you sign up for – different locations:  Honey Island Swamp, a remote Cajun village and more.

A close-up view of Spanish moss hanging from a Cypress tree

WHAT WILL YOU HEAR ON YOUR TOUR?

I noticed that there are many positive write-ups about the Cajun guides on these tours – tourists seem to be awestruck by the incredible amount of fascinating info these folks have (many have been raised in the area itself – this was hands-on, authentic stuff NOT out of a book). A sense of humor seemed to be very important also – lots of info delivered with a light touch. Great! Here are just a few of the comments:

“Our guide had a good sense of humor. I highly recommend this tour.”

“This trip was awesome and worth every penny.”

“This was my fourth trip to New Orleans and my first airboat ride. Had I known what I was missing I would have taken this tour before.”

There you have it, folks. Be brave. Sign up for the time of your life.

Shaun Nelson-Henrick

What’s Happening in September?

For this week, I’ve decided to concentrate on music in New Orleans, simply because I haven’t written about NOLA’s music scene before.  First, let’s take a look at an annual event called The Ponderosa Stomp that occurs in either mid-September or October.

The Orpheum Theater where the Ponderosa Stomp is often held

 WHAT IS THE PONDEROSA STOMP FOUNDATION?

This foundation (that began in 2001) is a nonprofit organization dedicated to celebrating the legacy, revitalizing the careers, and preserving the history of American musicians and their music. It works to ensure that the unsung heroes of this scene are given their due: celebrated, included and remembered – but most of all, heard.

The Ponderosa Stomp itself is billed as the greatest celebration of American roots music in the world.

Sal Nunziato, of The Huffington Post says, “The Stomp is that great jukebox, in that great roadside diner you only see in movies, except…this is real and it’s alive on stage.”

Joel Selvin, of the San Francisco Chronicle notes, “The Stomp tells a story no other ordinary concert does. It opens up the inside story of music history.”

A QUICK LOOK AT 10 TYPES OF MUSIC IN NOLA

I. JAZZ

It originated in New Orleans in 1900. Jazz has melody, harmony and rhythm, which is the heartbeat of any piece of music. But what sets jazz apart is this cool thing called “improvisation.” Following its early success, second-generation artists like trumpeter Louis Armstrong elevated jazz to new heights and introduced it around the world. CLICK HERE to hear Louis do his “When the Saints Go Marching In.”

Louis Armstrong plays his trumpet in Egypt

 II. BLUES

This is melancholy music developed in the rural southern U.S. toward the end of the 19th century. It’s a distinct, low-down kind of feeling translated into music. Blues found a wider audience in the 1940s as blacks migrated to the cities of America. Bessie Smith is regarded as one of the best blues artists ever. My vote goes to BB King. CLICK HERE to listen to “The Thrill Is Gone.”

III. FUNK

This is a music genre that originated in African American communities in the mid-1960s when black musicians created a rhythmic, danceable new form of music through a mixture of soul and jazz. In 1967, James Brown wrote “Cold Sweat” with Alfred “Pee Wee” Ellis. This is widely considered to be the first funk hit.

IV. RHYTHM & BLUES

Commonly abbreviated as R&B, this is a genre of popular music that originated in the 1940s. Electric and amplified instruments are often used – with piano, drums and guitar. A favorite here is Ray Charles singing “America The Beautiful.” CLICK HERE to listen to this classic.

V. ROCK & ROLL

What makes a great rock singer? Briefly, it’s breaking boundaries, stage presence and access to hits from a deep songwriting catalog. Every musician, who has ever strutted onstage, owes a debt to Chuck Berry, a great pioneer, who was followed by Elvis Presley. He shook the world with “Heartbreak Hotel” in 1956. Then there’s Mick Jagger, the ultimate frontman, who has brought style and sexiness to the scene for 50-plus years.  

VI. ROCKABILLY

This is one of the earliest styles of rock & roll, dating back to the early 1950s in the U.S.  It blends the sound of country with R&B – leading to what is considered “classic” rock & roll. It’s also the dance style for anyone who wants to dance FAST!

VII. HIP HOP

This term is widely considered a synonym for rap music and has four elements: (1) turntabling, (2) rapping or rhyming, (3) graf or writing and (4) B-boying or the hip-hop dance, style and attitude.

VIII. BOUNCE

This music is based on hip-hop. It favors punchy tempos, heavy bass and call-and-response vocals. CLICK HERE to see what Bounce looks like.

IX. ZYDECO

Early Creole musicians played an accordion and a washboard in front of a store near Opelousas, LA in 1938. Today the “rubboard” (rubbing the washboard) is a stylized version of the early washboard.

X. RAGTIME

This is a version of piano music that enjoyed its peak popularity between 1895 and 1918. One of ragtime’s most important pianists and composers was Scott Joplin. It is neither classical nor jazz – it’s in a category all its own. CLICK HERE to listen to the magic of Joplin.

Conclusion: Have I heard a voice that really WOWS me? Yes, the late Otis Redding, a soul singer (R&B and gospel) -- and a towering talent who died in a plane crash at 26. 

CLICK HERE to see what’s shakin’ on Royal Street with “Goin’ Back Home to New Orleans.”

 Shaun Nelson-Henrick

In August: White Linen Night

I was intrigued the minute I read about this event that traditionally takes place the first Saturday night in August. This year it’s on the 4th and promises to be as much fun as ever.

But first things first: let’s take a close look at the weather. August in New Orleans is hot. The temperature ranges between 76 and 92 F with nights between June and September around 70 degrees. Now, all the pundits say that the best time to visit the Big Easy is from February to May when the weather is great and the celebrations are in full swing.

In theory this sounds great, but “real life” is a different matter because many families have two employed adults working at full-time jobs and kids in school. Come August, a number of companies slow down and the children are on summer break. Ergo: this makes for a great travel month, (the airlines report that July is the busiest travel month of the entire year in the US so August is probably right up there, too).

A QUICK LOOK BACK

Linen was used for clothing in Ireland in the 16th century but this changed in the 18th when the cotton plantations in America’s south came on the scene and flourished. In New Orleans and most of the south, wearing white started with Easter and ended at Labor Day. I recently saw a photo of best-selling author, Tom Wolfe, a true Southern gentleman, who adopted the white suit as his trademark back in 1962 and, yes, he’s still wearing his summer whites. Note: Tom Wolfe died on May 14, 2018.  

WHITE FOR BOTH SEXES

The color white reflects, rather than absorbs the sun’s heat. That’s the main reason why men wore white suits and women donned white dresses. Now, this tradition is revisited every summer in the Warehouse Arts District. The event is free and has been described as more of a block party (on Julia Street) than a festival.

The Arts District (Warehouse District) in New Orleans where “White Linen Night” is held

It’s also a fund-raiser where the Whitney Bank partners with the Contemporary Arts Center (CAC) to raise funds for their programs. This event is chic and stylish. It offers a number of galleries showcasing the work of local artists in a four-hour period (5:30 to 9:30 pm) with a dress code that’s definitely the most basic you’ll ever experience – all-white.

WHAT TO DRINK IN NEW ORLEANS

The most popular drink in New Orleans – I see it everywhere – is the Sazerac which is New Orleans’ version of the classic whiskey cocktail (whiskey, water, bitters and sugar). And going one better, the Louisiana legislature passed a bill in 2008 naming the Sazerac the official state cocktail. In the 1830s, a pharmacist who owned an apothecary on Royal Street, created this classic cocktail.

Next is the Ramos Gin Fizz that is also very popular in San Francisco. I know this because I used to order it when I lived there. Henry Ramos created this drink in 1888 and named it after himself. It’s a tricky cocktail to make because it requires a well-beaten egg white. Bartenders believe the drink requires extra time and effort. That’s probably why I’ve never seen it in New York where everything is based on speed.

At the Sazerac Bar, which has an elegant old-world vibe, and is located in the Grand Roosevelt Hotel, roughly 20,000 Ramos Gin Fizzes are sipped every year. Like I’ve always said, it’s a great drink.

UPDATE: On Monday, July 23rd, I was watching “The Best Thing I Ever Ate” at 10 pm in New York when a piece about the Dooky Chase Restaurant in New Orleans and their superb peach cobbler flashed on the screen. There was 95-year-old Leah Chase in the kitchen doing her thing. She was married for 70 years to Dooky and has 16 grandchildren – all of whom have college degrees. CLICK HERE to read more about this great spot.

Shaun Nelson-Henrick

Traveling on “The Streetcar”

You’re probably saying to yourself, “I’ve never been on a streetcar in my entire life.” Well, better late than never. But first, let’s get one thing straight: as far as I can make out from my research there never was a streetcar named desire in spite of the stupendous fame of Tennessee’s play. Yes, there was a Desire Line but never a streetcar with this name. Of course, I’m sure New Orleanians will contest this statement if any of them happen to see it.

 THERE ARE FOUR STREETCAR LINES

§  The first one we took and, I believe it’s the best one, is the St. Charles Avenue Streetcar that goes through the Garden District on an avenue that is lined with jaw-dropping mansions and spectacular oak trees. When this route opened in 1835, it was the second horse-drawn streetcar line in the USA. It now runs 24 hours a day and carries more than three million passengers a year.

§  The second one is the Riverfront Streetcar Line that we also decided to take because we were in the mood. This is a two-mile route that runs from the French Quarter near Esplanade Avenue to the Convention Center.

§  The third involves two slightly different lines: both run from Harrah’s Casino up to Canal Street but #1 is the Cemeteries Line that goes to City Park Avenue, while #2 goes up a spur and ends up at the Esplanade Avenue entrance to City Park. 

§  And, finally the newest line picks up Amtrak and Greyhound passengers at the Union Passenger Terminal (UPT) and then heads to Canal and Harrah’s Casino before traveling downriver to the French Market.  

§  Be aware: a one-way fare is $1.25. Make sure you have the correct change and remember to look at streetcar schedules. You can buy a multi-trip pass if you plan to go more than once.

You can also get around New Orleans by bus, bike, pedicab, car, motorcycle and taxi. Frankly, I think walking is the best way to get around. So what if you get a little tired – there are plenty of places to grab coffee and rest your tootsies before starting off again. This brings us to the following – read on to…

WHERE TO STOP FOR COFFEE

I can do without some things in life (maybe) BUT I can never go without coffee a couple of times a day. Okay, maybe three or four, but I’m always trying to cut back. How am I doing? No comment. I’m not about to reveal any failed intentions so let’s move on to good coffee joints in New Orleans.

The first one is called Spitfire Coffee and frankly, I think that name is pure genius. You’ll find it at 627 St. Peter’s Street (that’s close to Jackson Square) and it reputedly serves some of the strongest coffee in the French Quarter. It’s open 8 am to 7 pm Sunday to Thursday and to 9 pm on Friday and Saturday nights.

Spitfire Coffee: a tiny treasure in the French Quarter

The second is named Who Dat Coffee Café and I think this name is a hoot also. It’s open from 7 am to 10 pm and is located at 2401 Burgundy Street. This is a coffee shop that has great coffee plus pastries, sandwiches and cupcakes. There is also an on-site restaurant, Café Nero that has an excellent breakfast menu. We’ve heard that the Not Yo Mama’s corn cakes are super tasty. I love all these wild names!

CLICK HERE to hear the New Orleans Superband play West End Blues which was written by Joe “King” Oliver and recorded by his band, The Dixie Syncopators in 1928. 

Shaun Nelson-Henrick

Resting Peacefully Above Ground

Did you know that there are 17 cemeteries in New Orleans? Of all of them, a few are tourist attractions because of their history, and the fact that they are above ground. Burial plots are shallow in New Orleans – the water table is very high – one can only dig a few feet down. That’s why all the graves are in crypts or mausoleums above ground. These cemeteries are often called “Cities of the Dead.”

St. Louis Cemetery #1 – Basin at St. Louis Street in the Treme

I laughed out loud when I read that because so many people wear black in New York and periodically, when I’m talking to someone about this, I’ve said, “Yep, Manhattan is the City of the Dead.” Folks laugh when they hear this – but it’s true. Once when I was taking a red eye flight in December from LA to New York I looked around and saw that every passenger getting on the plane was wearing a black coat, scarf or jacket. This is 100% true.

You may be thinking to yourself, “Who in the world wants to tour a cemetery?” Well, I thought the same thing when my husband and I decided to take a tour. However, we found it was not a spooky or scary experience. Actually, it was more like taking a step back in time – and very popular – judging by the number of tourists who sign up for these tours.  

Out of the 17 I have picked four cemeteries and provided links so you can pick and choose the one you want to tour or see.

ST. LOUIS CEMETERY #1

Did I just say, “not spooky?” Well, I just read that this cemetery is considered one of the most haunted gravesites in the entire United States. It goes back to 1789 and is located at 425 Basin Street in the Treme.

In the span of just one block, this burial ground holds 700 tombs and over 100,000 of the dead – and counting, as it is still an active gravesite. For 229 years folks have reported run-ins with the ghosts that haunt the cemetery.

The famous Marie Laveau or as she is more commonly known, “The Voodoo Queen of New Orleans” is buried in a crypt in this storied graveyard – that can only be visited with a guide – and is the final resting place of many illustrious Louisiana families.

CLICK HERE to read more about the St. Louis Cemetery #1 Guided Tour.

LAFAYETTE CEMETERY #1

Lafayette Cemetery #1 in the Garden District of New Orleans

This burial ground was established in 1832 in the elegant Garden District of New Orleans. Why not take a stroll among the live oaks, magnolia trees and azalea gardens that give this area its name and reputation? Note: The Lafayette is right next door to Commander’s Palace – did you know that it has a luncheon special that includes a 25-cent martini? The limit is three.

CLICK HERE if you’re up for a small-group, two-hour walking tour in the Garden District and the Lafayette Cemetery.

ST. LOUIS CEMETERY #3

Why not do three tours in one two-hour period? You can explore the famous French Quarter, visit the St. Louis Cemetery and see the Voodoo Queen’s tomb.

One visitor wrote this glowing report, “Our guide was a voodoo priest who was knowledgeable and passionate about the history of this area. It turned out to be an informative and unique two hours.”

CLICK HERE if you’d like to learn more about this three-in-one tour.

ST. LOUIS CEMETERY #2

St. Louis Cemetery #2 – this one is free

This cemetery is located at 720 St. Louis Street in the Treme. It has a big plus, IT’S FREE. The hours are: Monday to Saturday, 9 am to 3 pm and Sunday 9 am to noon. There’s also free off-street parking if you go by car. For information, call 504-482-5065, or CLICK HERE for more news about this cemetery.

Okay, we’ve whittled down a long list of 17 cemeteries for you so now it should be very easy to pick one that you like. I know which one I’d choose – but I’m not telling!

CLICK HERE for an upbeat rendition of “I’ll Fly Away” by the New Orleans Superband – this famous gospel song was written by Albert Brumley during the Depression (1929).

Shaun Nelson-Henrick

We All Live to Eat

Wait a minute! Isn’t “We All Eat to Live” the upstanding, sensible version of this saying? Yes, it is. But something happens in New Orleans. Visitors who have sane and proper dining habits at home, throw caution to the wind the minute their plane hits the tarmac. Every bite of food becomes an adventure so one’s thinking tilts more and more until it’s, “Oh wow, what’s next? Or “Are you kidding? I have to try that!” Or “If I don’t try that I’ll regret it for the rest of my life.” I feel I must help all you wayward souls so here are eight suggestions on how to handle The Big Feasty.

“I’M THINKING EXTRA-CRISPY SOUTHERN FRIED CHICKEN”

We have just the place for you. It’s called Willie Mae’s Scotch House and it has been described as having “the best fried chicken ever” by the James Beard Foundation and the Food Network. Each piece is crispy-crunchy outside, and super juicy inside. The restaurant is located in New Orleans’ 6th Ward, which is just blocks away from the French Quarter. You’ll find it at 2401 Saint Ann Street.

“I’D KILL FOR DEEP-FRIED ALLIGATOR MEATBALLS TONIGHT”

Looking for a dive bar with pub grub? And live music? Check out Buffa’s Bar and Restaurant at 1001 Esplanade Avenue (or, On the Border of the Quarter Since 1939). Don’t want to tackle gator with a spicy sauce? No problem. You’ll also find shrimp and grits, honey-mustard wings and the Buffa burger served with fries. The Front Bar is open 24/7/365 while the Back Room is open Mon.-Tues. 6pm to whenever.

Buffa’s Bar and Restaurant – if you’re hankering for alligator

 “I’M WANTING A ‘SMALL PLATE’ PLACE, I’M NOT HUNGRY YET”

We hear you. So how about a snug bar and eatery that features small plates and special house cocktails? The Three Muses Restaurant is a great spot for drinks before heading out to explore the lively music scene in the area. Tapas style portions make it easy to try new things and share with others. Cheese plates and stuffed olives are favorites. And don’t forget: local jazz combos perform as one nibbles. Three Muses is open seven days a week and is located at 536 Frenchmen Street.

The Three Muses Restaurant – eat and listen to jazz

 “OK, I’M IN THE SOUTH. I WANT SOME REAL GOOD SOUL FOOD”

You said, “Soul food.” Well, we’ve heard that Dooky Chase’s Restaurant serves Southern Creole that we’re sure you’ll love as you take note of the white linen tablecloths and art bedecked walls. From Tuesday to Friday the restaurant offers a delicious lunch buffet. The “regular” menu on Friday nights offers favorites such as Chicken Creole and Stuffed Shrimp. You’ll find this gem at 2301 Orleans Avenue.

Dooky Chase’s Restaurant – white linen tablecloths and art everywhere

 “I WANT THE SANDWICH THAT STARTS WITH THE LETTER ‘M’”

I can’t spell or pronounce it either, but I saw it on March 20th on Channel 88 in New York City at midnight on a program called The Zimmern List. They featured a muffuletta sandwich at The Central Grocery and Deli located at 923 Decatur in the French Quarter. It looked absolutely delicious and VERY filling. Go for it.

The Central Grocery and Deli – an old style Italian market

 “WHAT ABOUT ROYAL STREET? ANY MORE RESTAURANTS?

Yes, I promised last week I’d finish with Royal. Here are three more: Verti Marte at 1201 Royal is open 24 hours and has delicious sandwiches, salads and burgers. Then there’s Bennachin at 1212 Royal that features West African cuisine. This restaurant is one of the first places in New Orleans to feature vegan items on its menu. And right next door with the same 1212 Royal address (this throws people for a loop) is the Mona Lisa restaurant that has a menu featuring Italian-American cuisine. Diners rave about its mouth-watering lasagna and baked ziti.

That’s it. You’ll never starve in New Orleans, that’s for sure.

Shaun Nelson-Henrick

Don’t Miss Royal Street

Be sure to plan a stroll along the 13 blocks of New Orleans’ famous Royal Street in the French Quarter – it goes from Canal Street to Esplanade. If you’re coming from Uptown (begins upriver of the Garden District and stretches to Broadway Street) you can take the St. Charles Streetcar and get off at Canal.

Royal is one of the original streets of New Orleans. It dates from the early 18th century and, by the early 19th was one of the city’s chief business and shopping streets. Currently, it’s the best window-shopping and gallery-hopping street in New Orleans. You’ll find Royal Street a classy alternative to the rowdy Bourbon Street that gets all the press. And, by the way, it does not mean “whiskey” (yes, that’s what I always thought) it refers to Louisiana’s 18th century French ruling family.

KISSING COUSINS

Royal Street and Bourbon are parallel to each other – Royal is one street south of Bourbon. Currently, Royal Street, which historically has been closed, from Bienville and Orleans streets, for pedestrian-only use, will be open for vehicular traffic at all hours until the eight-block road construction project on Bourbon Street ends.  

To compare: Royal Street is to the French Quarter what Magazine Street is to the Garden District. For some visitors, an evening stroll on Royal may have greater appeal than the nightly party scene on Bourbon.

IS ANYONE HOME?

Few people actually live on this 13-block stretch of Royal Street, although they once did. In fact, they resided quite nicely in closely packed Creole townhouses with graceful wrought-iron balconies that are still on Royal and add to its charm. But that’s not the whole story. You may not be able to see this from the street, but behind many of these structures were jaw-dropping gardens and courtyards that were once used to escape the bustling street scene. Now they’ve morphed into outdoor dining spaces because, as we all know, eating outside always make makes a meal taste even better.

WHERE TO EAT?

Since we all travel on our stomachs, this is an important topic even when one is just strolling along. For a quick bite, drop into Café Beignet at 334 Royal. Their beignets are larger and softer than those at Café du Monde and you can eat outdoors.

For a restaurant where you can drop in for any meal go to Brennan’s at 417 Royal for breakfast and/or lunch and treat yourself to a Cajun Bloody Mary (it has pickled okra in it) with a Crawfish and Porcini mushroom omelet (I’m getting hungry just writing this).

Do you like jazz music when you’re dining? There’s a jazz brunch buffet every day from 9 am to 3 pm at The Court of Two Sisters located at 613 Royal. The buffet offers a sumptuous selection of hot and cold dishes. Eggs Benedict and turtle soup are served all day.

Dining in the evening? Then you should consider Café Amelie at 912 Royal and treat yourself and your date to a great dinner served in an elegant courtyard. Try the chicken and andouille gumbo or a starter of Cajun country poutine. Not in the mood for dinner? Then try a catfish on ciabatta sandwich. 

Café Amelie – outdoor dining in a courtyard

This is just the tip of the iceberg – we’ll get back to more on Royal Street at a later date. That’s a promise.

Shaun Nelson-Henrick

Keeping the Kids Happy

Youngsters like to be entertained and get involved in things that interest them. So we’re suggesting two spots that both you and your child will enjoy – and remember – long after you leave New Orleans.

A happy group at the Kids’ Café in the museum

 TURTLES, OTTERS, PENGUINS: YOU NAME IT

The Aquarium of the Americas is part of the Audubon Institute and is located at One Canal Street. Its exhibits go beneath the surface of the Mississippi (the aquarium also overlooks the river), the Gulf of Mexico, the Caribbean Sea and the Amazon rainforest. There are 15,000 sea life creatures, representing nearly 600 species in this state-of-the-art facility.

Visitors of all ages can touch a stingray, feed a parakeet and marvel at the tarpons in the 400,000 gallon Gulf of Mexico Exhibit. Or, one can view the new and impressive Great Mayan Reef and the 30 ft. clear tunnel running through a submerged Mayan city, home to exotic fish. This is truly a fascinating experience that a youngster will love.

Want to pet a shark? Here’s your chance. The shark touch pool allows visitors to touch a baby shark. Want to be entertained by sea otters, neon-colored frogs or jaunty penguins? You’ll find all of them here.

Plan to spend several hours looking at all these wonders of the sea. There’s a small café on-site as well as a gift shop. Need to take a rest? The adjacent IMAX theatre screens educational and commercial movies throughout the day.

The aquarium is open from 10 am to 5 pm, Tuesday to Sunday. To contact: call (504) 581-4629 or (800) 774-7394.

ART, MUSIC, SCIENCE AND MATH: THEY’RE ALL HERE

The Louisiana Children’s Museum in New Orleans’ offers playful, hands-on experiences for children in more than 30,000 sq. ft. of fascinating interactive exhibits.  

Classroom lessons come to life at the Louisiana Children’s Museum

This educational museum lets your little one play, explore and learn. The Little Port of New Orleans spotlights five types of ships and lets kids serve a make-believe meal in the galley kitchen of a cruise ship, crawl through a barge, load cargo onto a big rig truck and pilot a towboat down the Mississippi.

Back on land there’s Eye to Eye that, unbelievably, will allow your youngster to step into giant eyeballs. Yikes! Then one can peek through magical masks for a look at how a catfish or hawk observes its surroundings. There’s also a special enclosed layscape for toddlers three and under to crawl, climb and explore. Come to First Adventures, every Tuesday through Friday, at 10:30 am.

And, let’s not forget the Talk and Play Center where a child can explore the world of books and literacy. Or decide to: dress up and perform, put on a puppet show, recite rhymes or even make music. There’s creative fun for everyone.

The gift shop is on the first floor and is filled with puzzles, games, science kits and party favors. This two-floor museum is located at 420 Julia Street and the hours are:

§  Tuesday to Saturday, 9:30 am until 4:30 pm

§  Sunday, mid-August to May, noon to 4:30 pm

§  Monday to Saturday, 9:30 am until 5:00 pm

§  Sunday, June to mid-August, noon to 5:00 pm

You’ll see lots of smiling faces! Everyone’s happy at a museum that’s created for them and their friends.

Shaun Nelson-Henrick

New Orleans loves the younger set. Take a look at this ad that features a four-year-old (it appeared in AFAR magazine’s July/August 2018 issue). We think the same way – so feel free to stay at the Rathbone Mansions when you pay a visit to The Big Easy.

Bring on the Burgers and Booze

The first item I came across about the restaurant, Port of Call, was that it was known for having “The Best Burger in the City.” I thought to myself, “Wow, that’s impressive! They must be doing a great job.” Then, I decided to take a closer look and found that the “burger” wasn’t served with French fries – but a baked potato. I thought to myself, “Who in the world serves a burger (the original one we’ve all been eating forever) with a baked potato?”

Port of Call restaurant was established in 1963

HERE’S THE HILARIOUS BACK STORY

Port of Call is located at 838 Esplanade Avenue (just 4 blocks from Rathbone Mansions) and was founded in 1963 as a steakhouse. Over the years this casual spot (no reservations) has moved on and now specializes in burgers as well as steaks.

Its big, juicy “gourmet” burger, as they like to call it, starts with charbroiled, freshly ground beef that is topped with grated cheddar. It’s served with a baked potato – plus lettuce, tomato, onion and pickles on the side.  What happened to the French fries that go with burgers everywhere else on the planet?

“Well,” says Mike Mollere, “Our kitchen is the size of a walk-in closet.” That’s a good beginning. Then he adds, “We used to have a deep-fryer for French fries, but one day it broke. So we started putting a baked potato with the burger instead.” That’s the whole story: a busted fryer resulted in all this fame and customer loyalty! Port of Call is open for lunch and dinner seven days a week. Every member of the family is welcome.

SHENANIGANS AT GALATOIRE’S ON FRIDAYS

Jean Galatoire founded his restaurant on Bourbon Street in 1905. It is now in its fifth generation of the Galatoire family -- all have carried on the tradition of fine dining and serving authentic French Creole cuisine. It’s often said that the beauty of Galatoire’s is that things never change.

Tennessee Williams had a regular table in the front corner of Galatoire’s, Was he ever there for one of their famous (infamous may be a better word) Friday lunches? Who knows? I went digging for as much detailed information as I could find about this tradition and lo and behold! I found a gold mine when I read a piece on the web by Rachel Sigur who was determined to get a reservation for a celebratory Friday lunch at Galatoire’s.

Her goal was to sit in the downstairs dining room where all the action takes place. But you can’t make a reservation. Or, as Rachel says, “The only way to get a table is by waiting in line on Bourbon Street.” The restaurant opens at 11:30 am so she arrived at 8:00 and saw a few disheveled-looking guys on milk crates and camping chairs already there. Hello? What’s this?

Apparently the affluent people of New Orleans (attorneys, politicians, doctors and so on) pay these friendly guys to hold a spot for them. The wait ended when the maître d’ at Galatoire’s came out and jotted down the names of those in the line. Guess what?  Rachel got her table in the downstairs dining room!

Galatoire’s four-hour Friday lunch: Let the good times roll

When her father arrived to celebrate his birthday, the dining room was packed and full of energy. And, everyone, it seemed, was there for a special occasion. Shannon, their charming waitress, who has worked at Galatoire’s for a number of years, asked if they were there for the long haul. “Of course, I said we were,” relates Rachel.

They started with drinks and delicious appetizers (the Galatoire Goute is one).  Then a gentleman stood up and said, “I’m the owner of the Far Niente Winery in Napa Valley and, to celebrate my daughter’s engagement and my son’s wedding, I’m treating everyone to a glass of wine. My chardonnay!” 

Suddenly passengers in a 747 flying overhead heard wild shouting, clapping and cheering. The captain came on and said, “Don’t be alarmed folks, it’s just Friday lunch at Galatoire’s.”  

Rachel’s dad says it’s the best birthday he’s ever had.

Shaun Nelson-Henrick

I received my subscription copy of AFAR magazine today. Guess what? The first thing I spotted was an ad for Mardi Gras, March 2-4, 2019. Already you say? Yep! It’s time to start thinking about the Rathbone Mansions as a place to rest your weary bones!

Planning for New Orleans

WHAT’S THE WEATHER LIKE?

One thing to consider when you’re thinking about a visit to New Orleans is “the weather.” Remember, you’re going to the Deep South, so it’s a good idea to give this some thought. For example, it’s a 1,169-mile trip (or 1,881 km) from New York to New Orleans going straight down. In other words: it’s hot from May until late October. Our visit was in mid-September and, along with seeing all the sights we made regular dips in the outdoor pool at our hotel. Don’t forget: bring your swimsuit when you stay at the Rathbone Mansions. You’ll want to take a dip in our pool and hot tub.

WHAT SHOULD YOU BRING?

Does New Orleans have a “dress code?” Not really. Overall, New Orleans is pretty casual. Jeans, shorts, T-shirts, tanks, cotton skirts and blouses should be fine for walking and sightseeing during the day. Jeans and heels will get you into almost all bars, clubs and lounges.

However, some of New Orleans fancier restaurants have a jackets-only policy for males. If in doubt, call ahead to check. If you arrive without a jacket, you will be given one by an employee at the restaurant. For men, it’s a good idea to pack a collared shirt and slacks. And for females, a summer dress or skirt and slacks with a suitable top will be fine.

The “dress code” is still in effect in places such as the Commander’s Palace where jackets, collared shirts and closed-toe shoes (no Teva sandals) are required for men. But shorts, flip-flops, T-shirts, sweatshirts, sweat pants or ripped jeans for either sex are a no-no.

 Commander’s Palace in New Orleans

Now, lets talk about shoes. Remember this: New Orleans is a great walking town – just like New York – so be prepared. Heels look great at night with jeans or fancier duds, but if you plan to do a lot of sightseeing during the day pack a pair of flats, sneakers or walking shoes.

WHAT HAPPENS WHEN IT RAINS?

New Orleans is like New York in one respect. Both get rain showers and late afternoon thunderstorms in the summer. So it’s a good idea to bring a small folding umbrella or some form of rain gear.

But here’s the good news: the rain comes and goes quickly (not like Seattle where it rains for weeks at a time). It’s more like New York and Hawaii where the rain offers a break in the heat or humidity.

Even if it does rain, there are plenty of indoor things you can do, such as: browse in antique shops, art galleries, gift shops and jewelry stores on Royal Street, pop into the Audubon Aquarium, head for the Ogden Museum or visit Mardi Gras World to name a few fun places you’ll want to visit.

M.S. Rau Antiques on Royal Street

 COMING IN JULY: THE ESSENCE MUSIC FESTIVAL

Here’s a three-day party you won’t want to miss! Every year Essence magazine (founded in 1970 – now has a circulation of over one million) sponsors a star-studded lineup of R&B, hip-hop, jazz and blues performances at the Superdome from July 5th to July 8th.

This is where the Essence Music Festival is held

Since the early 1990s this festival has showcased the best performers and entertainers in the country. But that’s not all. It also offers a series of thought-provoking seminars that are created to empower African American men and women. 

In the past, the Festival has included artists such as Beyoncé, Alicia Keys and Mariah Carey – this year the lineup will include: Janet Jackson, Mary J. Blige, Queen Latifah, Snoop Dogg, Backstreet, Kool Moe Dee and many more. CLICK HERE to see photos of the 52 artists who will be appearing this year.

Shaun Nelson-Henrick

C’mon Let’s Eat!

Café Degas is a charming and intimate French bistro located at 3127 Esplanade Avenue. It is named after the 19th century French Impressionist artist Edgar Degas who, in 1872, stayed for a short time in New Orleans.

One of the nicest features of Café Degas is its temperature-controlled deck with awnings. This will give you a sense of dining outdoors even though you’re inside. The founders of the restaurant chose this location for its historic charm and the beauty of Esplanade Avenue itself.

If you have a yearning for Belgian waffles, French onion soup, a classic salade niçoise, steak frites au poivre or parmesan-crusted veal medallions then this is the spot for you. Dinner is served Wednesday through Saturday from 5:30 pm to 10:00 pm and Sunday from 5:30 pm to 9:30 pm.

We’ve heard recently that brunch at Café Degas is quite special. Said differently, the crab crepe with hollandaise has been described as “decadent” – how can you resist? Brunch is served Saturday and Sunday from 10:30 am until 3:00 pm. Oh yes, we almost forgot the most important thing: Happy Hour at Café Degas is Wednesday and Thursday from 3 pm to 6 pm. White or red wines are only $5.00 each.

AN HISTORIC TOUR OF EDGAR DEGAS’ FORMER HOME

And while we’re on the subject of this famous French artist – why not take a tour of his former home? You will learn intimate details about Degas from your guide who may be one of his great-grandnieces!

The tour includes an award-winning documentary, Degas in New Orleans as well as an up-close and informative look at the historic house, museum, courtyard and studio where Degas worked.  

PASSING BY MANSIONS TO EAT LIKE A ROYAL

As we were planning our trip to New Orleans I made up my mind that we were definitely going to dine at Commander’s Palace. I liked the name and everything I read about this historical restaurant that is located in the heart of New Orleans Garden District and has been in business since 1893. We took a cab from our hotel to the restaurant and totally enjoyed looking at all the stately mansions that lined the avenue. Note: if you’re coming from the French Quarter take the St. Charles Streetcar Line from Canal Street. It will let you off close to Commander’s Palace. It’s only $1.25 but remember: you must have exact change.

This colorful restaurant with its “Commander’s Blue” striped awnings exudes Southern hospitality. My husband Peter and I were won over the minute we stepped in the door. A charming hostess greeted us and gestured for us to follow her through the kitchen. I did a double take and said, “Are you really taking us through the kitchen!” She smiled and said with a charming Southern accent, “That shows you we have nothing to hide.” I thought that was a terrific reply and I’ve never forgotten it.

Our waiter was equally charming and attentive. I had carefully researched the menu before we decided to go and said to Peter, “We have to order the turtle soup.” This is listed on the menu as a “Commander’s classic finished tableside with dry Sherry.” It’s absolutely delicious.  

For the life of me I can’t remember our entrées BUT I sure remember the dessert: their bread pudding that has to be ordered ahead of time. We had barely settled into our seats when I whispered to our waiter, “We definitely want your Creole Bread Pudding Soufflé. Can we order it now so we’ll be sure to get it.” I felt like a six-year-old saying this but I couldn’t help myself. Their menu calls it “The Queen of Creole Desserts” and it is.

Bread Pudding Soufflé with Whiskey Sauce at Commander’s Palace in New Orleans

Commander’s Palace Tory McPhail (center) requests that you order the bread pudding soufflé 20 minutes in advance

The waiter put our desserts on the table, poked a small hole in the top of each one and said as he poured, “This is our special calorie reduction sauce.” My husband looked like he wanted to dive right into the middle of the soufflé and wasn’t really listening, so he said, “Oh, okay.” The waiter looked at me and grinned. Then we both laughed. Hubby caught on very fast. (The whiskey sauce itself was probably 900 calories, but who’s counting.) It was a fun touch to a great dining experience at this landmark restaurant.

Shaun Nelson-Henrick

The Back Story on Mardi Gras

Well, the 2018 Carnival Season that ran from January 6th to February 13th is over. Let’s take a quick look back to see how things went this year.

The Mayor of New Orleans, Mitch Landrieu, summed it up very nicely on February 14th. He said, “Each year, we look forward to Mardi Gras. It’s the City’s signature event that shows the true culture and flavor of New Orleans. I just want to thank all New Orleanians for their cooperation and enthusiasm about this event.”

BEHIND THE SCENES

Like many big undertakings, there is an enormous about of work that goes on behind the scenes – dedicated individuals have to be there and do “hands on” work. Just take a look at these mind-blogging stats released by the New Orleans Fire Department for the 2018 Mardi Gras season. They acted on:

§  Sixty-two fires plus 1,163 medical and 732 other calls for service including nine “working structure” fires (residential or commercial buildings)

§  And they inspected 34 parades (including 973 traditional floats, 167 truck floats and 319 parade flambeauxs (dazzling gaslight torches)

A BRIEF HISTORY

The origins of Mardi Gras can be traced all the way back to Rome and Venice in the 17th and 18th centuries. The first Mardi Gras parade was held in New Orleans in the middle of the 19th century. (That’s all I’m going to say because when I researched this date I found that there’s no agreement anywhere.) One more point: The Carnival season officially starts on January 6th every year.

Read this info carefully. If it looks confusing – it’s not because you need new glasses. Take note:

§  Our lives would be greatly simplified if Mardi Gras were scheduled on the same date each year, like Christmas or July 4th. It’s not

§  Back in the day (we’re talking several centuries) the Catholic Church established movable dates for certain religious holidays, e.g., Easter can fall on any Sunday between March 23rd and April 25th

§  Now, listen up. Mardi Gras is scheduled 47 days before Easter. It can occur on ANY TUESDAY from February 3rd through March 9th

§  My head is spinning. Let’s keep it simple: next year plan to come to Mardi Gras on TUESDAY, MARCH 5TH, 2019. I rest my case

HERE’S A FUN THING TO DO

Take yourself over to Blaine Kern’s Mardi Gras World for a fascinating behind-the-scenes look at New Orleans Mardi Gras traditions. We did this and we loved it. They’re open seven days a week, from 9:00 am to 5:30 pm. And get this, they offer a complimentary shuttle for those interested in taking a tour. CLICK HERE to find out more about this eye-popping attraction that draws umpteen visitors from all over the U.S. and the world.

A JULY EVENT: PAYS HOMAGE TO THE FAMOUS ENCIERRO OF PAMPLONA, SPAIN 

The Big Easy Rollergirls dress up as bulls and chase crowds dressed in Pamplona-style white outfits with red scarves. This upcoming “Running of the Bulls” is the 12th Annual Celebration of this colorful event. It takes place from July 13th to the 15th in the French Quarter. CLICK HERE for more information.

Running of the Bulls in New Orleans

Another wild idea: See that horizontal strip of white in the center of this photo? That’s a huge Pillow Fight in Union Square, New York. UPDATE: On April 7, 2018 this event was held again with the rule: no feather pillows. 

NO TWO ROOMS ARE ALIKE

Did you know that none of the rooms at Rathbone are alike? Each one has its own distinct style and personality. Is this deliberate? Of course! We want each guest to feel special. That’s also why we have a TV, microwave, fridge and coffee maker in every the room. Southern hospitality at its best!

Shaun Nelson-Henrick

Two Writers, Two Tales

My first approach for this piece was to write about authors born in the South, such as Truman Capote, who was born in New Orleans and raised in Alabama. But he wrote In Cold Blood and it has none of the themes of southern writing. My second idea was to focus on works such as The Adventures of Huckleberry Finn. This is definitely about the South. But Mark Twain was born in Missouri.

The author, Truman Capote

I also found there’s not even an agreement about what areas of the United States are really southern. For example, many people living in Maryland (north of Washington, DC) do not consider themselves southerners. Okay, but I’m convinced DC is 100% southern. I solved this brainy slugfest by choosing two writers who have written about New Orleans.

NEW ORLEANS IS ONE OF THE STARS OF THIS PLAY

If ever a play created an indelible image of a southern city it was A Streetcar Named Desire by Tennessee Williams. Set in the sultry French Quarter with four poker players and the tragic Blanche, this play will be with us forever.

The French Quarter – where A Streetcar Named Desire took place – in the stage play and the movie

I have seen the movie with Marlon Brando and Vivien Leigh on eight occasions at least, but I’ve read the play even more times. I’m fascinated with it because I believe it’s perfect. The character of Blanche is so well drawn that if you describe someone and say, “Well, you know, she’s like Tennessee’s Blanche,” they know in a second what you’re saying.

I love writing about this play, but first, let’s take a quick look back at New Orleans. In the past, it has gone through the horrors of slavery, widespread city fires, yellow fever outbreaks, destructive hurricanes, massive flooding – and yet, New Orleans survives and thrives.

What’s the secret?

It’s one word: PEOPLE. Strong-minded folks with ambition move here. Tennessee came to New Orleans at age 28 because he felt it would inspire him. And, after a lot of effort and drive his play, The Glass Menagerie, opened on Broadway on March 31, 1945. Two years later Streetcar earned him a Drama Critics’ Award and his first Pulitzer Prize. This made him a famous dramatist (not overnight, that’s for sure). He then went on to create more great works, such as: Cat on a Hot Tin Roof that was made into a movie starring Elizabeth Taylor, Paul Newman and Burl Ives in 1958.

Tennessee enjoyed an exceptional literary career that began with his birth in Columbus, Mississippi in 1911 and ended with his death in New York at the age of 72. Both of these cities bookended a talent that really came into its own in New Orleans. 

NEW ORLEANS INSPIRED THIS LITERARY MARVEL

The author of A Confederacy of Dunces, John Kennedy Toole was born and raised in New Orleans. He took an IQ test at an early age and scored so high that he skipped the first grade. In 1954 he earned a full scholarship to Tulane and graduated with honors in 1958. He then attended Columbia and received his Master’s in English a year later. Two years after this he became the youngest professor – ever – at Hunter College. John was on a fast track.

However, when his father’s health began to fail he moved back home and taught at Dominican College to help his parents financially. He worked on A Confederacy of Dunces nonstop and sent it to Simon & Schuster in 1964. They liked the book but said that it required a number of changes and revisions. For two years, no matter how hard he tried no one would publish his novel. He took his own life in 1969. 

I have read this book and it’s not an easy read. The novel is picaresque, meaning: it’s a number of episodic adventures sprawling across the seedier or oddball side of New Orleans. Now, for the wrap-up: The Louisiana State University Press published the book with no revisions in 1980. In 1981 it earned the author a posthumous Pulitzer Prize for Fiction and has now sold more than 1.5 million copies in 18 languages. AND IT’S ALL ABOUT NEW ORLEANS.  YIPPEE!

Shaun Nelson-Henrick

A Gambling Man

Or lady? Sure, why not? Everyone can try his or her luck at the famous Harrah’s Casino in New Orleans. It’s located at 8 Canal Street and has a whopping 115,000 square feet for gaming.

The Big Easy has a very long tradition in the world of gambling. Its first casino opened for business in 1822 and, like the ones today, it was open 24 hours, seven days a week. Harrah’s opened in 1999 and when we visited New Orleans I had an urge to see it. Why? Because the only casinos I had been in were located in Las Vegas, Nevada; Atlantic City, New Jersey, and Nice, on the Mediterranean coast in the south of France.

Not so fast. The one in Nice was a joke. We were two 20-something single chicks whipping round Europe when we spotted the casino one evening. The fact that we were casually dressed totally escaped us as we walked towards it. Then we saw a sleek, black Mercedes pull up. An elegant male in a tuxedo got out and walked in the door. We deep-sixed the casino idea fast.

HAVING FUN IN HARRAH’S NEW ORLEANS CASINO

This casino seems to be quieter than the ones in Las Vegas. However, it does have 130 table games, including: blackjack, roulette, baccarat and craps. It also has 20 poker tables and 1,500 slot machines. I made a beeline for one of those. My husband, Peter, declined saying, “Boring, not interested. I’ll just wait while you play.”

The slots at Harrah’s Casino in New Orleans – there are 1,500 of these one-armed bandits

So he walked a short distance away, found an empty chair and sat with arms folded as he played the role of “the patient husband.” I ignored all this and started dropping in quarters. Then suddenly it was WOW! Quarters came crashing and tumbling out and out and out. Guess what happened?

Hubby shot out of the chair like a scud missile and landed on my left. Then a little old lady appeared on my right. She started jumping up-and-down while hollering at top volume. I could barely think or enjoy my win there was so much nutty action around me.

Plan on visiting. When you win it’s a great feeling. And yes, the casino is open 24/7. Note: Since 2015, Harrah’s is a nonsmoking casino but there are three outdoor smoking and gaming courtyards.

ANOTHER SOUTHERN SPOT: LAS VEGAS

One thought about this town: don’t be judgmental when you visit. Yes, the whole place is over-the-top, very noisy and even exhausting. But it offers many activities, entertainment (lots are free) and a huge number of places to sleep and eat. If it gets too much just rent a car. We did this, but as we were leaving for Red Rock Canyon in the Mojave Desert, the owner of the agency stuck his head in the window and said, “Watch out for the donkeys. They’ll kick the car. And boy! They kick.” Terrified, we started looking for these four-legged bandidos. Did we see any? Not one. That joker was just adding his Las Vegas touch.

Red Rock Canyon, Las Vegas, Nevada has a one-way, 13-mile scenic drive with no donkeys

AN EXCELLENT MOVIE ABOUT NEW ORLEANS

If you want to soak up the atmosphere of this town ahead of your visit try and get your hands on a copy of The Big Easy. This is a 1987 film starring Dennis Quaid and Ellen Barkin that was shot on location in New Orleans and really captures the atmosphere of the city.

The opening aerial shot of the New Orleans bayou alone is worth the price of admission – simply fantastic. Roger Ebert, film critic of the Chicago Sun Times wrote, “The Big Easy is one of the richest American films of the year.”

And speaking of “atmosphere” the Rathbone has it in spades with its antebellum mansions. Come visit, you’ll love everything you see.

Shaun Nelson-Henrick