New Orleans: the Top Dining City, Part I
I recently came across a fascinating article written by Lolis Eric Elle, a native New Orleanian and author of Treme Stories and Recipes From the Heart of New Orleans. This piece appeared in the April 2020 issue of Southern Living magazine and is titled, “The South’s Best.” It also has a list of the top 10 “restaurant cities” in the South. So guess what city scores #1? Yippee! The good old Big Easy!
What I found particularly interesting about this article is that the author has taken a new approach in his discussion about New Orleans’ restaurants. To start, he dined at many of these spots with his charming wife and two-year-old son whose response to various tastes can only be described as “comic relief.” For example, at one spot, the adults preferred the fish, while the toddler zeroed in on the white bread.
On a more serious note, the overall theme of this ambitious write-up (includes roughly 19 bold-faced names) is to explore the NEWCOMERS to New Orleans’ dining scene – a pretty daunting undertaking that I have whittled down to four for this blog and the same number for the following blog next week.
Or, as the author explains, “The classic restaurants in New Orleans still deliver great meals and memories BUT now this city finds itself increasingly influenced by new tastes from around the country and the world.” Yes, that says it all.
N7 RESTAURANT
1117 Montegut Street,
New Orleans, LA 70117
No phone: email: contact@nola.com
Whoever heard of a restaurant that does not have a phone? Frankly, I couldn’t believe what I was reading. But, I guess it’s true. The second thing is the name: to me “N7” sounds like the exit ramp off a freeway AND in no way, describes the restaurant itself: it’s definitely rustic, charming and delightfully French. This gem is located in Bywater and is owned by filmmaker Aron Walker and chef Yuki Yamaguchi – hence French cuisine with a Japanese touch.
N7 serves a Duck à l’Orange that is excellent but not exactly classic French
The restaurant was once a stable for carriage horses and the name can be described this way: the “N7” is a highway that once ran from Paris to Italy and is known as the “Route des Vacances” – meaning: vacationing Parisians would travel on this road as it headed south. Along the way, the Michelin Guide would direct them to unknown – but great little restaurants – in farmhouses and hotels. This was the beginning of the Michelin Star. Okay, that’s a marvelous story and now the name makes more sense to me.
MARJIE’S GRILL
320 South Broad Avenue,
New Orleans, LA 70119
(504) 603-2234
Now, we’re going to move on to a casual neighborhood eatery that serves Southern dishes inspired by the flavors and techniques of Southeast Asia.
This grill features a varied menu that ranges from Lemongrass Fried Catfish to tumeric-spiced cracklings to Grilled Heirloom Okra.
Nicely prepared catfish at Marjie’s Grill
One diner who lives near Marjie’s says, “This place may be described as Asian but it definitely has a Louisiana twist – especially since everything is locally sourced from the farmers and friends around this state and Mississippi. I am a big fan of the staff and prices at Marjie’s so I visit often for a delicious meal.”
MAYPOP RESTAURANT
611 O’Keefe Street,
New Orleans, LA 70113
(504) 518-6345
You’ll find this restaurant in the Warehouse District of New Orleans. One satisfied customer describes Maypop this way. “If you’re adventurous with food, Maypop is the restaurant for you. They offer a twist to Creole food with Asian flavors. Recently, I tried rabbit for the first time and it was absolutely delicious.”
At Maypop they look to Asia to personalize their own version of gumbo, the city’s emblematic dish. Their turmeric-roasted quail and fermented black beans define the broth.
Delicious, soul-satisfying gumbo at the Maypop Restaurant
Another diner describes Maypop as “a great place for lunch. They offer freshly baked bread that you can top off with a special jelly. We had the crawfish étouffe ‘to share’ and the server split it for us without us having to ask.” Personally, I love this. It’s a win-win gesture that always impresses me.
They finished their meal with drum fish in a curry sauce (this fish is similar to red snapper) – soaking up every bit of it with the bread they fell in love with and, to end her stellar review, she says, “We will definitely return for dinner.” That’s music to every owner’s ears.
EM TRAI SANDWICH COMPANY,
2372 St. Claude Avenue,
New Orleans, LA 70117
(504) 302-7772
This restaurant uses the excellent barbecue brisket from Central City BBQ in its soups and sandwiches. Before the owner had his own brick-and-mortar restaurant, he operated T2 Street Food across the street at St. Roch Market. (That’s the creative, striving newcomer taking chances and moving up, if there ever was one.)
The owner takes Vietnamese food to a whole new level. He takes it even further with his fusion items like Bang Bang Shrimp Roti. One incredibly satisfied customer reports, “The pulled chicken pho is just about the only pho I will eat now. I’m ruined. And the wonton chips with crab dip? It’s absolutely decadent. (I’ll say one thing about these reviewers – if they like something, they don’t hold back: the verbiage practically bursts into flames.)
WHY RATHBONE MANSIONS? New Orleans is a “walking town” – like Manhattan. For example, you can walk to the French Quarter from Rathbone Mansions in 15 minutes. Moving on it’s 12 minutes to Frenchmen Street, 6 minutes to the Port of Call restaurant (great burgers and steaks). Rest assured, you’ll eat like there’s no tomorrow.
Shaun Nelson-Henrick
*UPDATE: Maypop Restaurant has yet to reopen due to the pandemic. Instead, check out this new local restaurant open now near Mid-City:
ROSEDALE,
801 Rosedale Drive,
New Orleans, LA 70124
(504) 309-9595
This restaurant’s tag line is “Hard to find, easy to get to!” Nestled in the Navarre Neighborhood, located between Mid-City and Lakeview, Rosedale is owned by popular local chef Susan Spicer. The menu features dishes made with locally sourced ingredients, including house-made duck pastrami and BBQ shrimp.