Our Glorious Mardi Gras
This week I’d like to explore the traditions of NoLA’s most famous celebration of the year in a question-and-answer format.
Photo: Courtesy Travel & Leisure, February 2021
Q: What is the history of Mardi Gras?
A: You may be surprised to know that it dates at least as far back as the early Catholic church and perhaps even further into antiquity. Carnival’s pagan origins are deep. Pre-spring festivals of indulgence have always existed around the world. The church did not honor these traditions but after failing to stop them it was decided to bring these rites into the Christian calendar.
Q: Did Shakespeare have a hand in this?
A: Absolutely! His literary 1601 masterpiece, the play TWELFTH NIGHT is named for the holiday that traditionally kicks off the Carnival season – this is a day glorified by THE LORD OF MISRULE. The play, like the day itself, celebrates with costumes, satire and pokes at people in power. These actions go into Fat Tuesday (or Mardi Gras) – nothing is sacred!
Q: Did the Creole folks in NoLA join in?
A: Of course! Early generations of Creoles loved to dance and wear masks. During Mardi Gras they would wear disguises and attend balls. Carnival crossed race lines. But later, unruly behavior surfaced during Mardi Gras and those in charge became alarmed. This hasn't changed it seems.
Q. When did Mardi Gras start to change?
A: After the Louisiana Purchase in 1803 (a land deal between the US and France where we purchased 827,000 sq. miles of land west of the Mississippi for $15 million) there was a lull. Then in 1857 a group of wealthy Anglos named THE MISTICK KREWE OF COMUS arrived with great fanfare, namely: horse-drawn floats illuminated by “flambeaux” torches followed by new clubs who were called “krewes” a fun take on “crews.”
Q. What krewes honored this fest in the mid-19th century?
A: In 1872 REX appeared, MOMUS a year later and PROTEUS in 1882. These old-line krewes (a private organization staging festivities – such as parades) were – and for the most part remain – highly secretive societies of the city’s wealthiest and most powerful men.
Q. When did black traditions/krewes become popular?
A: Many enduring black traditions emerged around the turn of the 20th century. The spectacular MARDI GRAS INDIANS began to appear in 1885. Today their elaborate, feathered costumes are seen as pieces of folk art. The black krewe of ZULU appeared in 1909 and today includes many of the city’s prominent black citizens.
Q. What is a “Super Krewe” and why are they special?
A: These krewes began forming in the 1960s. ENDYMION began as a small, neighborhood parade in 1967. But now its parades and floats are the largest at Mardi Gras: it has nearly 2,000 riders and one of its huge floats is a whopping 240 ft. long.
Q. What happens on Mardi Gras Day?
A: The parade season is a 12-day period beginning two Fridays before Fat Tuesday. A popular preseason night procession, usually held three Saturdays before Fat Tuesday, is KREWE DU VIEUX. It passes through the French Quarter. For Mardi Gras weekend: Saturday is when ENDYMION has its ball EXTRAVAGANZA in the Superdome.
This is a party for 20,000 folks all dressed in formal wear. Or, as it says on the invitation, “Long, ankle-length evening dresses for the ladies – black tie (and tuxedo) for the gentlemen.” You’ll dance the night away (literally) until 3 am! CLICK HERE to read about our take on Mardi Gras in the past. CLICK HERE to listen to original Cajun music.
WHY RATHBONE MANSIONS? No one likes to look around for breakfast – it’s no fun when all you really want is a big, hot cup of java. At Rathbone we have a continental breakfast (gratis) that’s just waiting for those folks who can barely think before that first shot of coffee makes them feel as if life is worth living.
PLEASE PHONE, USE EMAIL OR CHECK THE WEB for whatever idea or event catches your interest.
Shaun Nelson-Henrick